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| | | Forums66 Topics128,065 Posts1,055,868 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 | Do I need to buy the ferrule tool for installing new ones on my door handle. This is NOT a stock or original truck, kind of a rat rod. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | George,
One can install the ferrule without the tool. I used a large bolt, nut and two washers with the diameter the same as the ferrule ID. I did cut 4 or 5 relief cuts on the inside end of the ferrule. Install the ferrule, install the bolt/nut with the washers against the ferrule and slowly tighten the fasteners making sure the ferrule collapses correctly.
I think someone has a ferrule tool that they let others borrow...Alvin maybe?
Paul | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 | I've been looking at pics of these ferrules- still working in other areas and dont have the parts yet, but I think basically what you are telling me is that you are smashing/crimping the ferrule into the door using a bolt/nut/washer and that you make the back/inside of the ferrule the weaker half by cutting some short reliefs in its edges (using dykes?). I've seen some of these w/rubber and some not, since one of my handles is dropping, guess I could use the extra support. (already tried new springs). George | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | Use a lug nut with the tapered side toward the ferrule. It'll spread the ferrule like a hollow rivet. It helps to put a thick O ring between the spreading part of the ferrule and the door skin as well. Helps hold it more securely. Those ferrule tools are junk.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | Use a lug nut with the tapered side toward the ferrule. That is a great idea! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 | Since I dont have one in hand, its a bit of a mystery to see it. I'm thinking that the back side (inside of the door) would be the half of the ferrule that actually spreads out to retain it in the hole,so which side should the tapered nut need to be on: the inside of the door pointing outward or from the outside pointing inward. I'm guessing you do not want to actually smash/bend the outside of the ferrule since it is visible? George | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I have one of the tools I bought back in the late 90's and they have not changed. I HATE that thing. Yes, putting a rubber "O" ring between the bezel and your door paint is a great idea and I even use an "O" ring inside again the inside of the metal to try get it to tighten up but the tool still sucks! George, yes, you put the bezel through the door and then put the taper lug nut on the inside of the door with taper toward the outside. I've seen a couple of originals that were still in the door from the factory and it looked so neat an simple. From the inside it looked like a "funnel" like the ones folks put over a dogs mouth! Either Chev's of the 40's, or The Filling Station, has a tech tip on using that darn tool. It seems to state that you go around the ferrule a little at a time...going around the ferrule at least twice. I boogered up a couple of new ones with the tool before I got one tight enough to be half way satisfied....and yes, I tried clipping the back side and a few other things that didn't work. It is definitely a booger to get TIGHT in the door. The lug nut trick sounds like it'd work even though I have not tried it yet. The door sheet metal is so thin its had to spread the bezel and make it tight. That's why the O rings help. ...I seem to remember that the tip I mentioned above says you don't need the tool after about '38. I'll see if I can find that article and come pack and Edit this post. EDIT: FOUND IT https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/installferrules.htmMaybe this will help someone and explain what I was trying to say above!!
Last edited by Achipmunk; 01/03/2016 9:48 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 60 | thanks, that cleared up my confusion and the link reinforced it. I'm still working on my dash (shortened 1955 Chevy BelAir) but the side windows and ferrules will come next. George | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | George, be sure to take pictures of the dash work. In the past week I've had a conversation with a couple guys about if I ever did a hot rod, or any type dash swap, I'd want to use a 55 Belair dash. I've had the tri-five Chevy's and many more and the 55 dash is nothing but kool. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 | A lot of opinions on the tool. However, the one I bought did the job very well. I would pass it on except that I have already done so for another member of the forum.
BobS46
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