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#113831 03/04/2004 12:39 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 236
G
Shop Shark
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Hey Guy's,
I'm having a hell of a time finding engine paint for my 51, 235. Not even rattle cans come in Chevy Grey. Jim Carter is my last resort. But, I'm not paying $18. haz mat fee. I've checked with all the paint shops and mixers in this town but no one mixes hi-temp paint. Any ideas?

Glenn,


Scootin thru with a 52,
Good, Economic and Classic
1952 Chevy 1/2-Ton
#113832 03/04/2004 12:47 AM
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fjord has a engine gray very close

#113833 03/04/2004 2:01 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
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K
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Have em mix it in "Imron" and don't use any primer at all!! Thats how Robinson helicopter co. does their factory new and rebuilt Lycoming Helicopter engines, I'm a former employee there, place sucks. Imron is what I have been using for around 10 years unless it's a quick and dirty job. A hui hao, Aloha

#113834 03/04/2004 1:39 PM
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BTW engine paint need not be high temp. if your engine hits 1200 deg's you've got other problems. Some of the high temp stuff for exhaust manifolds works well but other than that most any paint will work fine on your engine, Just remember it's all about how well you prep it

#113835 03/04/2004 2:25 PM
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Jim
#113836 03/04/2004 4:37 PM
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B
'Bolter
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Just use any high quality Enamel and you will be fine. Imron is fine if you have all the right equiptment, fresh air suit. Otherwise find a name brand Gray and go for it. Like Metal man said it is all in the prep. Good luck


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
#113837 03/04/2004 5:35 PM
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As for prep on an engine, probably against all body work paint guy's knowledge and training but based on experience is the reason you do not use any primer is because thats what is effected by temperature and creates a soft bed for the paint to delaminate from, or crush into, especially a filler, maybe you could use a thin coat of etching primer but your waisting your money on an engine, we just hose the engine off using the paint gun with acetone, let it dry and spray it, no prep at all when compared to painting sheetmetal, the paint clings like mad, I painted an engine for a T-28 Trojan that went on to win golden wrench award at oshkosh airshow in this fashion. good point about the safety issue's however, I just stand upwind! isocianates? I don't need no stinking suit! cough, cough, weez.......

And I agree any good enamel will work and won't kill you and/or your neighbors, here in southern california it is SO illegal to spray good paint anymore it isn't worth it, I'll use enamel from now on in fact, thanks for bringing up those issues guy's.

Aloha

#113838 03/04/2004 6:31 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 232
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New Guy
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Hey gang, Im going to paint my engine the same color as the body and frame, should I go enamel or bc/cc like the body?

#113839 03/05/2004 3:19 AM
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'Bolter
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Kimo have you ever seen an old bodyshop guy in his 70's?


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
#113840 03/05/2004 4:21 AM
Joined: May 2003
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I really hope there isn't a double meaning to the name Kimo...
:p

#113841 03/05/2004 7:54 AM
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Aloha!! 70 year old body men? Brian yes I have absolutely, 1 is still doin it, another owns the shop so doesn't get dirty anymore, another is the only guy I'll have do my color matches,,,,,,want more?

Man I hope those times I've sprayed Imron,OUTSIDE with respirator/papersuit/hood/goggles/surgeon gloves didn't hurt me too much!!

Safety first, always follow all precautions and label directions and have within reach the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet. At a full time job, ABSOLUTELY! For a hobby? well, try anyway, if you can't, adapt and overcome
--------------------------------------------------

Ua ola no i ka pane a ke aloha.

There is life in a kindly reply.

#113842 03/05/2004 12:25 PM
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So... painting a valve cover for a '57 235(in a '53 chevy) - just use regular rattle can engine enamel? No worries on the primer... just clean it, smooth/sand it out, clean it, let it dry, tape it off, xylene it, let it dry, and then shoot it with the enamel, let it dry, check and repeat until satisifed?

-W

#113843 03/05/2004 3:11 PM
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Does anyone know where I could buy some Seymour Engine paint on the Internet? The nearest retail distributor is 50+ miles from my here.

#113844 03/05/2004 4:37 PM
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Kimo
There aren't any old bodyshop guys around here anymore they are all dead! They must be smarter out by you or maybe its the winters here that get em'.

When I was younger I didn't have the knowledge that I do know and thought that I was indestructable. However, now that I have a daughter with a respitory Diease (CF). I am kneenly aware of my lungs and all my other organs. Not knowing about health risk in one thing. Knowing about them and ignoring them because the safety equiptment isn't convienent is another. I am not pointing any fingers or making any statements about people choices. We all have the right to choose. I just don't understand why some people who work with a dangerous product choose not to take the precautions to protect them selves?


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
#113845 03/06/2004 6:04 AM
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Sorry to hear about that Brian, I already clicked on your link anyway so I knew. Best wishes. My Dad worked in the sign business since WWII hand forming asbestos to use as forms to bend hot glass tubing for neon signs around, he's 87 and still pumping out signs and restoring motorcycles. It must be the winter

Woogeroo: the title of this post is "engine paint", not valve cover paint. All my suggestions on this is for the block and head and waterpump/thermo housing, etc, cast iron stuff ONLY! however thanks for pointing that out that I never mentioned that. Maybe I have killed too many braincells,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

ALOHA NUI LOA


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