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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,054 Posts1,055,779 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 192 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 192 | Hi all, I am going to be installing new windows and rubber gaskets on my '53 3100 five window. I have new glass and rubber from LMC truck and it will be my first time doing any glasswork. I was wondering about the following: is it common practice to use a sealant between the rubber and the cab metal, and or the rubber and the glass? or will the window seal just fine by itself? Where the rubber ends meet on the rear and corner window seals, should the ends be glued together? Where should I make the rubber ends meet, bottom? Top? On the side verticle? Thanks for any helping info. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | The repair manual is pretty specific about sealing the windshield and it WILL leak without it. I did not use any sealer on my wing vents and have not had any problems, at least not yet.
For back windows on my truck, and rear windows on the rear windows of my panel doors I join the rubber at the bottom. One thing to remember is to cut it a little long. It always seems to be about a 1/4's short when I cut "exact". So cut it a little long and then press it in if you can. You'll be glad you did. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 72 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 72 | On my '53 5-window I only had leaks on windshield after new glass was installed. I had a local glass shop inject black urethane up under the rubber from the outside and $300 later, the problem is cured -- almost. In heavy, driving rain I will still get a drop or two easing through at the bottom of the centre windshield divider.
But going through a touchless car wash my one and only time ;-) was like a great old comedy episode of I Love Lucy. I couldn't keep up with the leaks blasting in from the side windows and vents. I was laughing so hard at my own stupidity and I couldn't pull out until the rinse cycle was complete! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Like the others say,the front windshields will need some form of sealer,the rear(s) should be fine with just the rubber. They're not subjected to the same wind forces as the front. Personally I prefer to make the join at the top and seal it with a small drop of urethane sealant,any excess can be left to dry and removed with a sharp razor blade or you can clean off while still soft with some form of shop wipes or careful use of thinners. This little Tech Tip might help with the rears.
Last edited by jockbolter50; 12/02/2015 10:01 AM.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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