This Journal will detail my work, thoughts, and methods while fixing up and playing with a 1 ton AD truck.
The broad plan is to fix what needs fixing, drive it, make some improvements/modifications, drive it and continue to fix/improve/drive and so on until it's mostly all driving. Not looking to do a frame off restoration or anything that would take the truck off the road for an extended period of time.
Brief background --
In 1999 I started driving a 1952 Chevy 1-ton pickup and came to really like these old trucks and the 1-ton pickups in particular. Learned a lot in the process of racking up many thousands of miles in that old truck.
However, the cab was quite rusty and because of previous "repairs" was not a good candidate for further repair. It was bad enough in 2006 that I took the truck off the road with long term plans of finding a good cab or an altogether better 1-ton pickup.
Fast forward to 2015. I realize that if I'm ever going to find and buy a nice 1-ton I need to actually search for and buy a good one.
Next post will cover my thoughts and methods for finding one.
Ideally I wanted a complete running driving truck with zero or hardly any rust at all and a presentable useable paint job, the more original the better. Having worked for a good spell in a restoration shop and dealt with and replaced plenty of rusty sheet metal I fully understand the money, time, and frustration saved by starting with as solid a vehicle as you can possibly find and then afford (in that order).
What sort of truck? Well it had to be 1948-1953, I don't care as much for the 54. Had to be a 1 ton, ideally a pickup bed. However a dually or flat bed would work and I'd swap on my old 52 Chevy bed. GMC was first choice because I like the looks, I've never had one, and they have slightly better engines and a few other things. Chevy would also be a fine option.
Model year preferences? http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/i...ign/Advance%20Design%20Spotting%20Guide/ First choice 1949 or 50 because of improved rear cab mounts, in cab fuel tank, and no vent windows. Personal preference on the windows but I think the later style cab mounts are a smart choice for the life of the cab, and in cab fuel tank is nice and convenient place to put one. Second choice 1948, again no vent windows. later cab mounts can be added reasonably easy, outside fuel tank is not terrible. Third choice 1952, has vent windows but also the better push button door handles. 1951 hood emblems look better than.. 1953 which does have push button door handles. Really any of the others would be fine for lack of a 49 or 50.
How and were to search? Posted a wanted ad here on the Stovebolt forum as well as on the www.oldgmctrucks.com forum. Searched ebay for both GMC and Chevrolet narrowed by years 48-53. Searched all of craigslist with www.adhuntr.com with the search terms: GMC 1948 OR 1949 OR 1950 OR 1951 OR 1952 OR 1953 OR 48 OR 49.... and so on. Using "OR" between terms lets it return results for GMC and all the included years at once. This avoids making lots of single searches for every year, and yet a different search for "1948" and "48". Also weeds out duplicate results had it been lots of single searches. Similar broad searches were made for Chevy, Chevrolet, 3800, 250 and so on.
This process after a few weeks and months also gives some idea what the trucks are selling for and what a fair asking price is. In general I found ebay trucks to be priced pretty high, and quite hard to judge value without seeing the truck in person. My best chance on ebay was for an interesting truck to not sell so I could later inspect it in person, or do so before the auction ended if close by. I did not look at any ebay trucks in person though I was first in line and ready to travel to see one in IL had the high bidder backed out, which he didn't.
The craigslist leads were more fruitful and provided several trucks to look at. That story and the 5,700 mile roadtrip in the next post.
The trip. The Timber Framers Guild had a conference scheduled in Coeur d'Alene, ID that I was attending. I was also in need of a good road trip and decided to drive which opened up the better part of the country to my truck search. I was seriously considering driving a suitable truck home if I found it, having done similar feats before and had fun. This trip shaped up differently when a friend who recently moved to Denver asked if I could help bring his 48 GMC 1/2 ton project and pieces out to him. With the better portion of the fuel cost covered for the entire trip I didn't mind driving a truck and dragging a trailer instead of riding in comfort in the car sipping fuel.
My "Good" friend Adam signed up for the trip and the TFG conference under the assumption that Idaho was somewhere out there with Illinois and Iowa. Not long before departure and already to late to back out Adam's brother pointed out the error and showed him a map... This reminds me of a delightful toast about road trips, among other fine things, presented by Adam and my other BM's. https://flanamullegan.wordpress.com/2013/05/26/youre-on-a-road-trip-with-grigg-a-toast/
Using Craigslist as our travel adviser we picked a rout, collected some notes and phone numbers for trucks to look at, a junkyard to browse, and some new scenery to take in. We left about 8:00 in the morning Monday and made it to Denver Tuesday shortly after dark. Unloaded the 48 project and turned in for a shower and a good nights sleep. Below are several pictures from our travels and junkyard browsing on the way to Denver.
Leaving Denver Wednesday morning we almost headed North to Wyoming. In Wyoming was a GMC 1 ton cab and chassis without title but running and driving. The truck was cheap, perhaps too cheap, looked OK in the pictures, and may or may not have been rusty as I couldn't get a lot of detail over the phone. Upon further thought we decided not to go look, it was somewhat inconvenient to get to and I was sure it'd be more project that I really wanted. The cheap price probably couldn't offset the amount of work it would surly need to equal the completeness and quality of the truck I was really searching for.
Instead of going North we turned West on I-70 as Adam hadn't yet seen the big mountains out there and it'd make for a nice drive, we even found some snow. In Rifle Colorado we got off the highway and headed more or less straight for Salt Lake city on some nice smaller roads. For this stretch of the trip from Denver to ID, about 1,200 miles, without a load we had removed the two front tires on the trailer and chained the axle up. This helped the trailer ride better, less wear on tires, and got the fuel mileage up to just over 15 MPG.
Thursday morning we found ourselves in Horseshoe Bend north of Boise, ID at an excellent breakfast spot called the Long Branch Saloon. I'd never been to a saloon for breakfast... before the sun even came up they were open and we were hungry, right place right time.
Driving North through Idaho provides great scenery and in an hour or two it's completely different, and different yet an hour or so after that; all great and interesting. I'd like to make that drive again some day; in my estimation it was the most enjoyable stretch of our entire trip.
It was very apparent before even looking close that this truck was not the one. It was much easier to find problems and troubles with, caused by, or overlooked in the "restoration" than it was to find anything exceptionally nice about it. May have been a nice looking useful truck back a few years ago but was quickly becoming a candidate for a full and proper restoration to prevent further deterioration. More project than I needed even before talking about the price; skipped that discussion altogether and bid our farewells.
Grigg Thanks for the play by play adventure update! It shows how you really did your research and had standards to meet, for what you wanted.
Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery 1946 2-Ton grain truck 1946 3/4-ton pickup, 1953 1-ton pickup 1957 1-ton flatbed dually, 1954 Pontiac Straight Eight Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Finally arriving in Coeur d'Alene Thursday mid afternoon there was one more truck to look at before the conference started. This one I spotted on craigslist 9 months prior and agreed to take a look if it was still available come October when I'd be in the area.
Long story short it is a very clean truck, only major things against it was one spot of rust on the passengers floor and the bed I don't care a lot for. It has new glass in all except the rear, paint is presentable, frame looks good, brakes worked and had a few new flex lines and other recent work. Engine ran and sounded good, drove well, shifted smooth. Not all perfect but these things I expect and or can deal with easily. Needs wiring harness soon, no shorts at present. Tires are old and checked but holding air, likely will last a while yet. Bed has rotten wood and some rust under a plywood floor. Original (I think) seat cover has some duct tape repairs. Wipers don't work. Carb requires part choke to run smooth.
We made a deal, loaded up the truck and strapped it down. For safe keeping over the weekend I backed truck, trailer, and pickup truck into the shop where the seller works. Walked the two blocks back to the conference center and supper quite pleased to have found a very decent 1 ton GMC.
Sunday evening about 6:30 or so east coast time we departed Coeur d'Alene, ID. First stop was half hour later to pickup a small ice cream dipping cabinet/freezer. Also a craigslist find a few months ago that happened to still be there.
We took a somewhat Northern rout through Montana which would have been nice to see if it wasn't dark out... Truck and trailer pulled well and soon enough we were in Minnesota where we stopped in Frazee Monday evening to pickup a single cylinder Detroit Diesel for a friend.
A little about the towing truck. My Father's 05 F250 he bought new with a 5.4L gas engine. Couple years ago we had a 1999 24V Cummins and an 07 model G56 manual transmission swapped into it. It performed quite well on the whole trip. Average fuel mileage while towing was about 13.5 and with empty trailer just over 15 MPG. We moved along at 65-75 depending on the road and conditions. The 100 gallon transfer tank/tool box was borrowed from a neighbor for the trip. In addition to dry storage for our luggage the 100 gallons of fuel was real handy for buying cheap fuel where we could and using it while fuel was expensive at the pump. Also saved time and aggravation because we could pull off at a rest area and top off off the truck all in just a few minutes, no worries about finding a fuel station and navigating to it with trailer in tow in the wee hours of the morning. Increased our range by 4X. The crew cab truck we had setup with a shelf in front of the back seat making room for a mattress so we could alternate driving and sleeping. On a couple occasions we pulled in a rest area and the other one of us would sleep on the front seat for a spell. Some pictures of the truck conversion here: https://picasaweb.google.com/118082...onversion?authuser=0&feat=directlink
From Minnesota we headed for Knoxville, TN where Adam's Sister and family live. There we found a splendid supper, warm showers, and comfy beds waiting. I don't care to drive I-75 from Lexington to Knoxville again if I can avoid it. No fun with the traffic and a load.
Wednesday morning we headed out for Asheville, NC to fetch my VW car from the mechanic. This while out of our way still saved 300 miles and better part of a day had I tried to fetch otherwise. Pointed directly home at last Adam drove the VW while I followed along with the truck. Worked out nicely that he could zip along and even fetched takeout lunch while slower but steady I caught up with him at a rest area for the meal.
Well, not quite directly home from Asheville because I realized we'd be close to one of my favorite newer truck junk yards in Roanoke, VA during business hours. (Otherwise I can't get there without taking vacation time from work.) Stopped for a quick browse and to pull an air compressor for a friends truck project.
Finally we made it home pretty much 3 days from leaving Idaho and 2,700 miles later. Total trip an indicated 5,700 miles 9.5 days door to door with 3 days of conference in the middle.
Tomorrow I'll try to get y'all up to speed on the 51 GMC; brake work, carb tinkering, and a few other things,
I think your new project has a WW2 military G506 bed, most likely made by Budd. There were a few changes in the bed depending on wartime resource availability so making a relatively good ID of vintage is not too difficult. If you take some pictures I can help you out.
Cool saga, I bet it was difficult to pay attention at your conference.
Thanks for the info on the bed, I was guessing it was from a military trailer having seen similar ones. From a G506 truck makes more sense. What little I read so far indicates the bed is from the 40's, need to scrape the paint off the tag and see what it reveals. (edit, did that, made in 1945) I'll get more pictures in time too. Might be the original bed to the truck though it was previously used/surplus at the time.
The truck fits well in the garage and meets approval. PICTURE
On my lunch break the day after getting it home I made the rounds to the Insurance agent, DMV, and county office for all the necessary paperwork. After getting home from work I took it for a couple mile drive up the road to a neighbor/friends house. It was pretty weak on the hills but drove OK. While we were checking it out in his driveway I noticed some oil on the frame under the bed... looking closer it was brake fluid from a rusted through brake line to the rear axle. I drove carefully home and the brakes continued to work luckily enough.
Friday I was back at work until after lunch I found out a couple local stovebolters were headed to the junkyard. Same yard I had spoken for a set of 8 lug dual 19.5" wheels about a year prior and hadn't made the time to go fetch yet. Now with a truck that could actually use the wheels for it was the perfect time to get them before I missed out on the deal. Sorry I forgot the pictures but all 6 with 8R19.5 tires fit in the back of my VW station wagon. Made for a nice afternoon trip and good to see some Stovebolters.
Saturday morning a local Stovebolter stopped by to lend a hand with the brake line replacement. He also picked up a few pointers on making brake lines, the part of his own project next to tackle. Saturday midday two more Stovebolters stopped by to check out the truck and lend a hand with brake bleeding and carburetor fiddling.
The apparent carburetor troubles I first suspected may be just a vacuum leak. To test I sprayed ether/starting fluid on all the gaskets and such while running. Had the engine rpm picked up it would indicate a leak, we couldn't find one. Next some collective brain storming lead to checking the float level and the accelerator pump. The float level was off some.
We found the accelerator pump has 3 positions/stroke lengths for different tuning and only one clip is to be used in one of those positions. The carb was assembled with two clips capturing the accelerator linkage on the pump rod, this we decided and later confirmed was incorrect. Originally these carbs used a steel accelerator pump plunger with no rubber cup and therefore very little friction. The throttle/accelerator pump linkage pushes on a spring when accelerating and that spring more gradually pushes the plunger down, the connection is not rigid. Problem was the rubber pump cup (aftermarket rebuild kit) was so sticky in the bore the spring could not overcome it, the pump would not function at all. Which lead to someone's idea to put an extra clip on the pump rod linking it solidly, this causes bent linkage if you move the throttle too quickly.
After evaluating the one whole, two half carburetors, and a box of little parts we decided I'd be better off looking for a carb in better shape.
Not to let a poorly running engine keep us from a trip to the local brewery we 3 packed into the cab and took it out for the second voyage. The beverages were good and the company better. Some little backfires and stumbling on the hills made for an interesting but successful ride back home.
Yes, that old GMC was nice to see and not a common one, however I didn't set out to bring home that much of a project. If I had any money, more time, and plenty of garage space there are a whole lot of trucks I'd love to have..
Back to work on the 51 GMC. loading and unloading it form the trailer I noticed the left rear brake was dragging pretty hard and the first thing I did to the truck once home was pull that drum, inspect, and back off the shoes. On our trip to DB mentioned above we noticed a slight smell of brakes and stopped to check them, a few warm drums but not hot, we kept driving the few more miles to home. Time to really go through and adjust everything by the book.
First I thought if more than one warm drum it could be MC is not relieving pressure, not getting full return stroke. That adjustment is covered in the manual here http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0508.htm About 13/16" between pedal bar and the floor board. Mine was too tight and this adjustment solved the dragging brake problems.
Also wanted to inspect all the brakes just to see what I had. The rear drums come off after removing the wheels and two flat head screws. The shoes looked pretty new and thick and the drums clean, smooth, and no lip. Drum PICTURE Shoes PICTURE Right rear wheel cylinder was wet, it was leaking but had not soaked the shoes. I pulled the pistons and cups out to inspect. Wheel cyl. PICTURE There was a small amount of crud and discoloration but no serious pits. Measured the bore and the piston and found about 0.007" clearance which is about double the suggested amount. See manual here: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0526.htm
At this point I figured nothing to lose by honing it and putting new cups in; the piston and spring were clean. I realize it will be out of spec and honing only increases the clearance but I estimate the cup will take up the slack and won't give any trouble. Also on my mind are plans for a different rear axle and not wanting to spend a whole lot of money on these brakes that I don't need for very long. I'm all for doing things right the first time and try to always think about safety. In this case I weighed those values with what I expect out of these brakes and the cost. Had I intended to keep this axle/brakes I would have had the cylinders stainless steel sleeved (I considered doing it myself, even looked up thin wall seamless SS tube ). New cylinders run about $80 plus or minus some at NAPA, sleeving should be cheaper. New 1-3/8" cups at NAPA are $2.16 each.
After searching and searching the shop for my wheel cylinder hone I gave up and bought one the next day, some day I'll have two...
This job was simple. First remove the top brake shoe spring with a set of brake spring pliers, flop the shoes out but still attached. Next put some rags under the wheel cylinder, pull the adjusters, push on a piston to pop the other out, catch the fluid and remove both pistons, cups, and spring. Then with cylinder hone on cordless drill hone the cylinder just enough to mostly clean up. I used some diesel in a squirt bottle to lubricate and flush while honing, not sure if that is right nor not but seemed like a good idea and it worked well. Finally wash out the bore with brake clean as well as the pistons and spring. Reassemble with new cups lubricated in brake fluid.
One last thing about that right rear brake before reassembling. The parking brake cable is missing a support bracket where it enters the backing plate and has damaged the cable sheath causing the cable to stick. PICTURE While I order new parking brake cables I disconnected this one from the link inside so it won't cause the brake to drag. The other cable is in fine shape and works well on the left side. Anyone purchased cables from Inline Tube? They list cables for the 1 ton as original or stainless for $75 or $85 each, which is a little strange as the front page shows $39 or $49 as general pricing and these cables seem pretty normal, not special. I have not yet called for details.
Now on to the front wheels/brakes. To get to them the whole hub must be removed. I elected to just remove the hub cap, cotter key, and spindle nut; Then pull hub, drum, wheel, and tire all together. This is faster and simple if you can be careful with the seal while doing it. Front brakes looked similarly nice, good thickness on the shoes, clean drums with no lips, cylinders looked recent, no troubles at all. Even the ball wheel bearings looked like new (they may be?).
Here is the service manual on adjusting wheel bearings which is important to check because I'm more familiar with tapered roller bearings than I am ball bearings for this application. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0307.htm (and the next page) Torque to 33 ft lb and back off one flat (1/6th turn) and no more than 1.5 flats to fit cotter key.
Next post is master cylinder rebuild and brake adjusting,
First a note on the service manual, a most invaluable tool for these old trucks. The chevy manual is easily found online thanks to Keith Hardy. . http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htm The Chevy manual is a good reference even for the GMC because so much is the same between them.
I do like to have the right manual and found a used reprint of the correct GMC manual, you can buy a new one here from Jim Carter
I'm very impressed with the GMC manual, it goes into much more detail and covers more stuff than the Chevy manual does. For example recently there was a question about lubricating the brake cross shaft where it passes into the frame. The Chevy manual does not mention this in the lubrication section of the manual or in the brake section. The GMC manual does clearly explain in the lubrication section that it should be oiled every 1,000 miles with a squirt can of engine oil. Also noticed more detail on brake servicing, and I'm sure more good stuff throughout the GMC manual. I recommend anyone with a Chevy should also get the GMC manual, I wish I had 16 years ago!
OK, Master cylinder. When adjusting the brake pedal I noticed the MC was leaking pretty good from the front end, from the bore/cup. The MC looked pretty new so I decided to try just a kit for it, NAPA had the kit for $22, 1.25" bore. Removed the MC, disassembled, and honed the bore just enough to mostly clean up, some discoloration is OK (to me), pits are not so good. PICTURE
Referenced the shop manual and reassembled, reinstalled, checked pedal adjustment, adjusted all the brakes, and bleed them.
Details on adjusting the brakes. Shop manual page http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0513.htm The 51 1 ton has Huck brakes which have an adjuster on each end of the wheel cylinder, one for each shoe. They get adjusted so the brakes just drag and then back off 5 clicks on the front and 4 flats of the hex on the rears. Some I may have adjusted more snug to start with and then needed a little more slack off so they wouldn't drag.
Now the brake pedal is very firm and the brakes work right close to the top, gives much more confidence than going half way to the floor before they work. Having driven it and used them some they're getting seated and now the truck stops straight, before it pulled one way or the other. Still a little squeaky but that my go away, not sure.
Finally back to the carburetor troubles. A friend offered to loan a new Zenith replacement carb if I'd fix a broken choke screw on it. I was able to file the ends of the screw off, remove the shaft, drill the center of the screw, and as much as I don't like them... used a tiny "easy out" to remove the broken screw. PICTURE
Next I needed to make a V flange sort of adapter ring so my air cleaner would clamp to this carb. I think such a ring comes with these carbs when sold as universal replacements, I didn't have one. Turned one from a chunk of aluminum and slit it with the bandsaw, works just fine. first PICTURE second PICTURE
The new carb worked out just fine, started quick and ran smooth. Following the instructions I made some rough adjustments. Carb adjustment instructions PICTURE
I ordered the exact cables you are looking for the for the 47 1-ton dually I'm working on from In-Line tube. Pretty good communication and they fit nicely at the drums. They are dangling now until I de-rust the frame, paint and prime. They look like they will attach nicely to the front cross bar across the frame. You will need to provide them some of your original hardware at the drum. Actually I think the piece you are missing, though that is junkyard common. If I had the chance I would do the SM-420 brake if I could. Best - Joe
I'm looking at a 14 bolt rear axle swap and it has parking brakes at the wheel, looks like the original 1 ton brake cables will fit the newer axle/brakes. That will be simpler than also swapping a transmission parking brake, though those do work really well. Perhaps I could send them the hardware to reuse from the modern cables.
First I wanted to adjust the valves and took a drive to get it warmed up for that. The method i use was shown to me a long time ago and is simple enough to remember, no need to look it up every time. Keep in mind that a 4 cycle engine with an even number of cylinders will have one piston up on the exhaust stroke when another cylinder/piston is also up but at compression. This is handy because the piston nearing TDC exhaust will be closing the exhaust valve and with just a little more rotation of the crank to TDC will open the intake valve. It is real easy to watch for an exhaust valve closing and right after an intake valve opens. When this happens another cylinder is at TDC (or nearly so) of the compression stroke where both valves are very much closed and those lifters are well seated on the base circle of the cam, perfect place to adjust those two valves.
Simple/short version of the method is just figuring out which 2 cylinders move together, both at the top at the same time. Write down the firing order (often cast on the intake manifold) in two columns, half on the left and then start the second column on the right. firing order for a Stovebolt is 153624: 1 6 5 2 3 4 So when the valves/rocker arms just wiggle one after the other on cylinder #6 I can adjust cylinder #1. Rotate the engine a little more and valves will do their thing on #2 and I adjust #5. This can all be done within 2 rotations of the crankshaft.
I know by memory (from watching the engine turn over without head on) that the front and rear cylinders do the same thing, and the two center cylinders also do the same, which leaves # 2 and #5 doing their thing together, knowing that saves making the little chart.
The GMC service manual is vague on the valve lash. It suggest 0.012" intake and 0.020" exhaust at a starting point (cold after a rebuild?) and to look at a sticker on the valve cover for the values when warm. I don't have a sticker so went with 0.012" and 0.020" for now, better a little loose than too tight. They were all quite loose, they all needed adjusting.
Distributor, The points were pretty tight so I loosened them to about 0.019" gap which is within the range suggested by the shop manual.
Under the cap the rotor button had rubbed on one of the spark plug terminals and left some brass dust on the inside of the cap, washed that off to help prevent misfires.
Timing, At first used the timing light to set the timing pointer not at the ball but perhaps 3/4" to the right of the ball; more advanced. Followed by a test drive up a steep hill across from the house listening for a ping or ignition knock. This setting seemed a little off, I forget which way but just not quite right... Then I decided to try adjusting timing by ear listening for the most engine RPM at idle as this method had served me well in the past. I think it ended up with a little more advance than previously and after a test drive seemed to do OK, I'll leave it there for now.
I think the by ear and by test driving is better plan than the light until you figure out what works well. Then use the light to check and see what it is and put some paint on the flywheel so you can repeat that setting with the light. Remember that adjusting the points can change timing, so recheck/adjust after replacing them.
The ignition wires look OK but I should change the spark plugs before long, pulled one and it, although not eroded, had some carbon and stuff I assume more from running out of tune than from anything else. I may try to sand blast them but replacement might be simpler, I don't have a dedicated plug blasting/cleaning thing. In fact before bringing this truck home I had been doing my best to do away with spark ignited engines and I'd consciously avoided purchasing tools specific to such engines. This had me asking for and borrowing a timing light last week too...
OK, driving along sounded like the cab was pretty solid on the frame... similar feeling to my old 3800 because the floor was so rotten the cab was sitting on the frame. Except the GMC has a very sound floor. I looked under the front cab mounts and not a scrap of rubber left.
Curious what thickness rubber should be there I looked at what the restoration parts vendors sell and didn't find the answer listed, and no clear answer in my forum searching. Then I thought what about the manual, what does it say? http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0103.htm It does not say what thickness rubber, better yet explains how much clearance should be between cab and frame bracket. Measuring my truck this equaled about 5/16" rubber.
The hardware for my mounts are in great shape, and removed quite easily. Nice working on something that isn't all rusty.
The round rubber washers on the bottom side were still there but extremely hard.
Picking through my collection of various rubber stuff found some new hay baler belt at 1/4" thick, perfect for those round washers. Found a scrap of a large conveyor belt from a quarry, it probably started out thick but had worn thinner in places. This was quite convenient because I could measure and pick where to cut the 2 square pieces from so they were just the thickness I needed.
Above picture shows the pieces. Cut the squares with a utility knife. Cut the round ones with an Allpax gasket cutter . A new old tool I had been searching for for years (new ones are pretty expensive). Finally found this one and it's about the handiest thing ever for cutting nice circular gaskets and washers; handy enough I should have bought one long ago. The holes I drilled with a 9/16" paddle bit for wood with some little spurs on it, I had it and it worked. The thinner rubber I could have used a hole punch, but the thicker stuff was easier to drill. A brad point twist drill bit for wood is usually a good choice for rubber if you have such a thing, I didn't.
Then to install them used a little bottle jack and a piece of 2x4 under the very front corners of the cab, one corner at a time. Jack it up just enough to slip the new rubbers in. Then let it down and tighten the bolts just snug, not overly tight.
Replacing these cab mounts also improved the fit and function of the hood and the latch.
Grigg, very interesting insight on the fit and function of the hood and latch after installing new rubber. Great read. Thanks for sharing. Do the GM's have a Ranco valve setup and will you be getting into it ? I see several venders sell the rebuild "washer" and I am considering giving it try while I have a pile of parts in my hand. Happy Turkey - Joe
The Ranco heater valve/thermostat was an option on all these trucks same as just having a heater was an option. This truck didn't have one and I don't feel the need for one. My 52 I drove for years without one, just a valve on the water pump, on for winter and off in the summer. I do have one if I wanted to use it but for this truck plain and simple is the plan. I've looked at rebuilding one and it looks pretty straightforward, just be careful bending those tabs.
Tomorrow I've borrowed a steam cleaner and hope to clean the drivetrain and another rear axle. More updates later in the week,
The original heater didn't work so I traced some wires, tightened some connections and then it would run. However it wouldn't run very fast. Soon enough it blew the fuse in the heater switch. Removed the heater to investigate. PICTURE Then removed motor and dissembled it just enough to see that the brushes were worn down to next to nothing, the commutator was very well worn, and lots of crud/dust/dirt inside. Seeing all that I quickly slid the motor back together and started looking for a replacement. If it was in better shape I would have oiled it and tried to keep it going.
I have the base model recirculating Harrison heater, it has a round heater core. I wanted a 12V motor. Short answer is save your money, don't spend $45 + shipping online, instead go to NAPA (or likely other FLAPS) and order NAPA # 655-1022 for $33. (see alternate, cheaper!, part # for other heaters in the electrical thread linked above) With motor in hand simple remove and replace, no modifications.
You may ask why I put a 12V motor in a 6V truck? Because it'll still run (about half speed) and because in the future I'll do a 12V conversion. It works plenty good for now on 6V "full speed/hi"; the lower switch settings are too slow, don't use them.
Next post?? Changing fluids, considering rear axles, ordering seat belts... several things going on presently so more to come soon.
So far I've covered the "improving" part and little of the "driving" part.
Early on we went for a couple little trips out with it running not so great and with brake problems. A couple weeks ago after brake work, carb replacement, and valve adjusting finally seemed ready for a normal drive. That Friday I drove it to work, lunch, errands after work, and back home. All without any troubles and with big smiles. Brought back memories of driving my old 52 anywhere I wanted whenever I wanted to. It has been a long time now without a reliable useful old truck to drive around, or any truck for that matter. I sure missed it.
One weekend took it to the lumber store and picked up some 16' shelf boards for my wife's shop, that was fun. Later that day we attended a fancy dinner (fundraiser) in the old truck and picked up another friend on the way, also enjoyable.
It's been nice to drive an old AD truck again and I feel right at home behind the wheel! (I suppose to be proper it is a "New Design" truck being a GMC.)
Presently it's stuck in the garage having drained the rear axle and transmission. Trans I'll refill. Rear axle I plan to swap a 4.10 gear set in and that should firm up in the next week or so.
Did a little research and found out that several of the common sources of seat belts get them from the same place, Made by Beam's. Here http://www.seatbelts.net/distributors.php
Several years ago I ordered some 3pt ones from Juliano's for my 48, I have not used them yet. http://www.seatbeltstore.com/
I think this is another separate manufacturer/assembler not related to Beam's (I wonder if they source some parts from same place??). I have no experience with them. http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/
The Beam's belts are/look to be good quality so I decided to stick with them. Now that I know where they really come from and can search better It seems Juliano's is somewhat more expensive than some of the other other distributors. Also found out that many of the distributors don't have a large selection or may have belts but zero or slim hardware options.
Andover Restraints has a very large selection of belts and mounting hardware to go with them. Be warned though, the website is pretty lousy. However the customer service when calling so far has been great, no problem ordering over the phone and asking questions. http://www.andoauto.com/
In the past I've used non retractable belts and they're just fine. However if your passenger is not well educated in the matter they'll likely throw the belt at or out the door when exiting and then slam the door on it. This could be troublesome if you have nice paint and annoying even if you don't. This time I decided to try retractable lap belts and ordered Andover part number 8244-20 Series with mounting kits # 204K. These have chrome lift type latch, an older looking buckle design.
I intend to mount the retractor behind and outside the seat frame just between gas tank and cab corner. The buckle end will go under the seat and come out between cushions. This will be a project for the new year after the belts get here.
last week I drained the transmission oil after removing the shifter stick and noticeing some condensation and brown sludge inside, no surprise as this is quite common. To remove shifter it's an easy press down and turn the collar counter clockwise a fraction of a turn with one hand.
Here is some of the sludge scraped out of the drain plug hole PICTURE
It looked nasty enough that a flushing seemed like a good idea so I removed the fill plug on the transmission and reinstalled the drain plug for now. Then poured diesel fuel in the top until it ran out of the fill plug on the side of the transmission, replaced it, and put in another half quart or so. The idea is to fill it up but not so full it runs out the input shaft which may not have a seal (later models did). Then I let it set for a few days.
Note. It is a whole heck of a lot easier to fill the transmission from the top than it is to squeeze or funnel anything into the fill port on the side, just use that to check the level.
A week or so prior I had removed rear axle cover and took pictures of the gears in preparation for trading it for some 4.10 gears. The trade is a go so this weekend I removed the differential "pumpkin" "center section" "chunk" or whatever you like to call it and packaged it for shipping. PICTURE Also removed the rear half of the driveshaft. Had I not already drained the rear end I could have left all that together and set the axle on jack stands to do this next part.
To help flush the transmission I wanted to run the engine and shift through the gears to get the diesel fuel in there stirred and splashed around. Without a load I don't think there is any danger of messing up bearings or bushings, diesel fuel is somewhat oily. All in all I ran it for about 10-15 minutes going through all the gears a few times while bringing the engine RPM up to normal driving speed. With that done I removed shifter again and looked inside, you can't really see much for gears or anything in there but what I could see looked much cleaner. PICTURE Finally I drained the diesel fuel and much of the sludge with it. Except the truck was parked just a little nose down and some dirt/sludge remained in the bottom, I should have jacked the front axle up significantly for this process. So I did jack it up and poured in another pint of fuel, letting it sit and will drain it later and try to wash out the last of the sludge.
While under there I noticed the output shaft seal was wet, and I had previously steam cleaned a lot of grease off the back of the transmission. That seal number is 591448 which NAPA crossed to a new seal for about $16, one of those is on order.
Here's a little trick I thought of for the u-joints to keep them together, perhaps it's been done before. PICTURE Used some wheel cylinder clips while removing the shaft to keep the caps on and not lose any needles. Now would be a good time to replace the u-joints except they don't feel terrible and I want to deal with driveshafts later, so I'll reuse them for now.
Next post might be reinstalling the rear differential with 4.10 gears, or installing seat belts, or researching and thinking about replacing the wiring harness.
Actually I'd like to work on it more but don't have the time. What time I've had recently was half this past weekend and a half hour in the evening only a day or two the last few weeks.
When It first got home I did make more time to get brakes and things sorted out.
Hope to find more time after Christmas. Also keeping my fingers crossed I can get the rear axle back together and driving again before snow and salt. Pretty much decided I'm going to keep it inside after they salt the road.. That didn't used to concern me and It probably should have.
Big day today, First a short followup post about transmission. (actually not so short but is simple)
Last we left it it'd been run (in the shop) with diesel fuel in it for a while and drained, still some sludge in the bottom so poured a little more diesel fuel in. That sat for a few weeks before and over Christmas. Today I drained the trans again, most of the sludge washed out. With a bent wire I scraped out some more sludge, sprayed some brake clean in the drain to wash the last out. The whole flushing thing worked out well.
Earlier I made a magnetic drain plug, I like to use them and they're sort of expensive to buy and cheap to make, so I make them. Drain plug PICTURE 1 Drain plug PICTURE 2
The transmission output yoke seal seemed to be leaking a lot, time to replace the seal. First to help remove the yoke I bought a handy, cheap, (but well made) tool. Though not entirely necessary on the transmission, it could be put in two gears at once, but it'll be most useful for holding the rear axle pinion in similar fashion. Ratech Part number 18001 http://www.ratechmfg.com/Yoke%20tools.htm Yoke holding tool PICTURE
Found that the bolt holding the yoke in wasn't very tight at all. I'm pretty sure the seal was leaking, and a good chance additional oil was leaking around the splines, washer, and bolt holding the yoke on. PICTURE
The original seal is GM (I think) and Chicago Rawhide part number 591448. The replacement is SKF and NAPA number 22336. Seal PICTURE
Removal and replacement was simple. The service manual suggest removing the whole rear cover to replace the seal. I just used a seal pulling hook, easier and no gasket to find/make, and replace. To install the seal I used a little Permatex #2 on the outside, drove it in flush with the housing using a mallet and a round piece of stock larger than the seal and with a hole in it to clear the splined shaft. Greased the sealing surface on the yoke and slid it back in. The washer had fretted on the bottom side so I turned it over, put some permatex on it, under the bolt head, and on both sides of the lock washer. The idea is to keep any oil that slips by the splines from escaping. Bolt gets torqued to 60-65 ft. lb. using that handy yoke holding tool. Refilled with 80W90 gear oil, washed the shifter, smeared the moving parts with some grease and reinstalled it.
Yesterday I picked up a crate with some 4.10 gears in it, shipped using Fastenal. PICTURE Here I've put my old 5.14 gears in the crate, picked one 4.10 pumpkin to use. Another Stovebolter will get the other 4.10 set, place two more 5.14 sets in the box and ship it back halfway across the country. PICTURE
The new pumpkin and gears from 1970, also has the ratio/tooth count stamped on the ring gear, 10:41 PICTURE Some serious rust around the yoke nut. No dried grease so I hope the seal is good. If the seal does need replacing later, now is the time to at least remove the rust and spray some penetrating oil. Used a punch and a little hammer to chip away at the rust, there was plenty. Also note the torched off and stuck pieces of u-bolts. PICTURE
Two of the stuck bolt pieces came out OK with a C clamp and a socket. PICTURE Two of them were seriously stuck and needed more persuasion, one also needed some heat to finally budge. PICTURE
Gave the pumpkin a quick wash. PICTURE After scraping old gaskets I use a flat file to remove any burs and dings, here's one spot cleaned up. PICTURE Also cleaned up the housing just the same, both sides. Used a somewhat dull bottom tap to chase the threads in the housing, all 20 holes. Finally cleaned out the inside as well. PICTURE
Gaskets, Pumpkin gasket; thin, and cover gasket; thick. PICTURE Ferl-Pro part numbers RDS 5090 and RDS 5988 I like to use Permatex #2 on most gaskets. Put a little on and spread it about as thin as possible with my finger, flip the gasket and repeat. Don't worry about loosing any when flipping, plenty enough stays on the gasket. PICTURE Also use the same Permatex on the bolt threads to seal them. PICTURE If I spread just the right amount on the gasket only the tiniest little bit squeezes out. PICTURE Also washed and removed any burs from axle and hub and put a new gasket on, Fel-Pro 55350. I didn't use any Permatex on the metal flange gasket because I'm not sure if it is a good idea? Time will tell if I should have. Did use Permatex on the axle flange bolt threads. PICTURE
Small diversion, axle breather was somewhat plugged with dried grease and the cap was loose, cleaned it, crimped it back on, some Permatex on the threads and reinstall. If it were thoroughly plugged the axle would probably leak somewhere when it warmed up. PICTURE
Made up a pair of studs to help line up the pumpkin when installing. Set the pumpkin on a creeper and rolled it under the truck. PICTURE Unfortunately no picture of the next part, I had my hands full. Laying on my back, feet forward and head under the axle I rolled the pumpkin on my chest and squirmed further under the axle. Looking through the axle housing back to front I picked the pumpkin up the last few inches and slid it on the guide suds (gasket already on the housing). Except it wouldn't slide on... I previously checked the fit of the pins on a bolt hole but not the exact two they needed to fit into, a mistake. A burr left by a lock washer was the trouble so set it back on my chest and moved the stud to another hole that it would fit into. Finally slid the pumpkin into place, the lineup pins if tested first actually work really well, easy. PICTURE The shop manual instructs to put the bolts in and "tighten firmly", no torque specification that I could find. For lack of a torque spec. I look at the specs for my 53 series Detroit engine which list a general torque spec for all common thread sizes. 35 ft. lb. seems about right for 3/8-24. PICTURE The rear cover has a thicker and soft gasket. As expected the cover was puckered a little at each bolt hole. With a hammer and a block of wood I unpuckered them, even a tiny bit past flat the other way. Because of the soft gasket and somewhat thin cover the bolts didn't need to be so tight, don't want to deform the cover at the bolt holes again, at least not by much. 20 ft. lb. seemed about right, 15 may have been just fine too.
This whole ordeal of cleaning and prepping, installing pumpkin, new transmission oil seal, refilling oil, installing driveshaft and backing the truck out of the garage took all day. I figured it might take half a day or so and thought I was nicely on schedule until looking at the clock to find out it was already 1:30...
Finally finished up about 5:30, quick shower and a test drive on the way only slightly late to a dinner invite. Thankfully though the 4.10 gears are a very nice improvement over the slow 5.14 gears, made good time on the way to dinner, plenty of speed available. Much nicer to drive, didn't once find myself pressing in the clutch and searching for the next gear... to find it was already in high gear (a common occurrence with 5.14 gears).
Next post, hopefully just driving; it's time for plenty of that.
"...a burr left by a lock washer" Wow, the little things that make you go HMMMMM! I changed out my axle breather to a new type, just couldn't trust that 'bottle cap' affair, I know, I know, it worked for GM so far...
Great work and documentation Grigg.
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
I think the pumpkin weighs about 80 lb, not so bad to pickup if you have to.
The difference in 5.14 and 4.10 gears is 20% So drive same speed with 20% lower RPM or same RPM as before and go 20% faster. Another way to look at it is a 4.10 gear change (with a direct drive transmission) is similar to having a 0.80 overdrive ratio with 5.14 gears. Same final ratio or speed in either case. Hope that helps.
Today I stopped at a real neat vintage wiring place (close by!) and ordered an original type wiring harness. Only had time for a real quick, incomplete, tour of the place.... Must admit I am thoroughly impressed by the quality and attention to detail, to say nothing of the cool old machines, incredible inventory of components and finished products. On top of all that the owner is a wealth of knowledge and enjoyable to talk to. Stay tuned for more wiring harness info in a month or two
Grigg great job. Is it time to take a ride to Boones Mill?
Interested in your local wire harness business.
X2
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
Thanks Grigg. I have a universal harness I'm using. It's good quality but leaves bare wire for the sockets assuming you have good ones already. I have the sockets but of course the old wire is threadbare and useless. I imagine I could find some "tails" to use and re-use the old sockets. That was my plan. We all know about plans...
Today Cosmo and Alec stopped by to hang out. We installed some 8R19.5 tires and wheels on the rear axle, approximately 2" taller than the original tires (Good for about 150-200 rpm drop) Then we all crammed in for a test drive. Found a suitable straight spot in the road and got it up to a GPS verified 63 MPH on the way out and 70! on the way back.
It runs nice at 50-55 and I suspect with some better engine tuning it'd be happy at 55-60 for continued running.
I didn't measure before and after but a quick comparison of each mounted tire shows about 3/4" difference. So each inside dual is now 3/4" closer to the rear springs, close but not too close. Overall width measured across tire sidewalls is about 1.5" wider with 8R19.5 tires on 6" wide rims than the width with the stock 18" wheels/tires.
More details on the 19.5" tubeless dual wheel swap.
Comparison of the new 8R19.5 tire and wheel beside the original 18" wheels and tires. PICTURE Rough measurement shows almost 2" taller. PICTURE
Checking fit of inside dual and the brake drum, it is an EXTREMELY tight fit. About 1/16" clearance between corner of drum and wheel center. PICTURE If it were any closer we'd have problems. These 19.5" wheels have a more or less spherical dish to the center. I've had some similar 19.5" 8 lug wheels that had a more conical (straight/angled and not so curved) dish to the center, those different wheels may or may not fit (I don't have one anymore to test).
Here's an overall picture of testing that first wheel and checking clearance. PICTURE**
Next issue is stud holes and the wheel studs. PICTURE The original wheel studs are 1/2" and the wheels will accommodate 9/16" studs. This leaves some room around the studs but luckily enough the wheels are what is called "hub centered" in that they fit snug at the center bore and the hub, so a snug fit on the studs (and tapered seat lugnuts) is not a necessity for centering the wheel. Had a friend hold the brake and I rotated the wheels to take out the slack such that when driving forward the studs are already contacting the appropriate side of the lug holes, then torque the lugnuts. Picture of wheels installed. PICTURE
Don't forget the clamp plates and be sure they are installed dimple side out, or if using more modern ones countersink/bevel side out to fit the appropriate lugnut. A black and red clamp plate is visible in the picture linked above with ** after it.
Next, driving report and more/better pictures of the truck,
Yesterday, the last day of our vacation, the weather was very nice, perfect for a drive in the old GMC. It also hasn't snowed yet so no salt on the road; I should get my driving in while I can. When they do salt I'll stop driving for the winter, or spring as it may turn out...
Planned a trip up the road to an antique mall the other side of Staunton, about 45 mile drive. Before heading out I checked the truck over and got it ready to travel. Previously I had greased the front end and now greased the u-joints and rear springs to complete that job. The wiring is pretty sketchy the more I look at it. Saturday (or sometime earlier) a wire broke off at the brake light switch and I crimped on a new bullet connector. The connector didn't fit snug enough and the brake lights gave up again when it jumped off the terminal, a little squeeze fixed that. Also topped off the engine oil which does a pretty good job leaking out of pretty much evry place it can, though not very fast thankfully.
First stop at the local farmers co-op to fill up on non ethanol fuel. Then we just headed up Rt. 11 almost to Staunton where it was faster to hop on the interstate for 8 or 10 miles. Must have been moving along quick enough because no one passed us on 11, and we almost kind of kept up on the interstate. The speedometer is broken and I didn't bother checking the GPS. Didn't find much interesting at the antique mall, I was hoping for some VA 1951 licence plates but no luck. Also looking for a nice clean 5" Unity spotlight because at some point the truck had one. I wouldn't install one from scratch but with a hole already there I'll put one back, they can be useful.
On the way home it was already dark as we left the mall. We stopped in Staunton for a nice dinner and then left on Rt. 252. 252 is a real direct and more interesting way to get home, it pretty much ends at our house. It's also not busy at all and most comfortable at 50-60 MPH which the truck is also most comfortable at.
The heater works OK running the 12V motor with only 6V but if real cold out it probably couldn't keep up like that. Eventually a 12V system will solve that, and new weatherstrip will help too.
I also took a bunch of overall and more detailed pictures of the truck Sudnay, not enough to see every detail and flaw but a decent start, need to take some more pictures in better light still. The picture album for the truck is found here, and is same album with most all of the pictures linked throughout this thread.
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
Hi Grigg. I agree on the 19.5's I carried a spare brake drum with me when I went to pick them up from my seller. They were tight but the face of the drum fit squarely against the face of the rim. I was wondering if I should use the ring on the 19.5's. I see you did. You have good faith in the old 18's taking her on the highway for a 45 minute drive. Mine are too rotted for such a journey. Keep the photos coming. Best - Joe
I'm working on a fairly nice 1950 GMC 250 with 9' Pickup Bed.
This has been a very interesting thread as I rebuilt the Huck brakes on it a couple of years ago and would certainly prefer a less maintenance intensive alternative.
Once I find my H052 housing, which "14 bolt from 73-2006 brake system" is preferable? And is that assuming the donor is a 73-06 3/4 or 1 T truck?
I'll do a search for the front end improvements, including brakes, knowing that's a whole different can of worms...
Drove it to work Monday just for fun, no troubles. It might be running better and better, and sure starts easy even when cold.
Yesterday evening was an adventure! A good friend is moving to town in a week or so and offered us a few loads of firewood they had stockpiled at the old house. If you also heat with wood I'm sure you know better than to turn down an offer of split dry wood. So I left work a couple minutes early to go home, refill the stove, and take the 51 about 15 miles up the river to fetch firewood. It was pretty windy and getting dark quick by the time we got there, hardly any moon. Backed up to the pile and started loading just as it started snowing. Wasted no time finishing loading, completely dark and continuing to snow real heavy now, big flakes. Watched a state plow truck go by just as we were leaving, a bummer because I really hoped to get home before they salted the road.
Given the circumstances we didn't pile the wood real high, but it was still a respectable load. I was also curious how this particular truck would handle with a load and went a little light on it for that reason too. Getting back on the now completely white road was not so fun, the one wiper would only make half a wipe at a time... We puttered along, defroster working well, headlights OK, and wipers about 25%. Passed another state truck going the other way and luckily not salting, also couldn't see that the first one had salted any. Thankfully!
Little by little we kept it on the road, didn't run into anything more than a bunch of big snow flakes, and finally made it home. PICTURE safe and sound in the garage Backed in and I'll just fill the stove straight from the truck this week, save handling the wood two more times.
Looking forward more enthusiastically to a new wiring harness and sometime after that some 12V wipers.
Sometimes the reflection from large snowflakes in the headlights is overpowering, then it is best to run with park lights only, there is always enough background light(moon, etc) to proceed, done that many times.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Made another firewood run on Saturday afternoon without any snow. This time with the sides on the bed allowed for a nice full load with the overload springs well engaged. It drove fine but would have liked the lower (stock) axle gears if this was to be a regular occurrence, or more power. Brakes worked well but I didn't want to need them. More/bigger/better brakes sure wouldn't hurt. Here are a few photos on the way home. PICTURE leveled out nicely with a load PICTURE 2 PICTURE 3
My old neglected 52 Chevy 1 ton pickup has a pretty bad cab, a decent frame, OK front fenders, terrible rear fenders, so so running boards, and then the bed. The bed is what I'm most interested in keeping and although not perfect it may be good enough and very useful after a quick sand blasting and paint, leave the few rust holes (character). Or it will eventually be a great pattern for building a new bed, one of the many task on my eventual to-do list.
Earlier this Saturday with some help I finally got the 52 1 ton over to my place from where it was resting for many years at my folks place. I parked it there back in 2006 to remove the axles which then went under my 48 2 ton project which was moving along quite quickly back then... later I sold the engine and transmission.
For 10 years it has been sitting on some oak blocks and timbers well above the ground but getting closer to it. Here's a PICTURE of rotten wood blocks. To move it I had saved a rear axle and springs from a junk/parts truck and needed to put it under there and slide some spring pins in place. Didn't seem safe crawl under there at this point. With the help of some borrowed hydraulics we picked the truck up and brought it over on the driveway, set it on some sawhorses, and rolled the rear axle and springs under it. Pictures of that process: PICTURE 1 PICTURE 2 PICTURE 3 PICTURE 4 PICTURE 5 (name that Stovebolter) PICTURE 6 (the hover truck)
To unload it at my place I have a little home made swiveling doohickey that slips on the end of the forklift forks and can pick up a truck by the front axle, or in this case bumper, and drive it around much like a wrecker would.
Before long I'd like to put the pickup bed on the GMC.
Next, tucking the GMC away "for a long winter’s nap"
Love the shots. Any bed clearance issues above the 19.5's with a load? I rolled my rear 18's up next to the 19.5's that are now on the rear and they are really only an inch shorter. My 19.5 drive tires are recaps right now so they might be a little taller than new ones, not sure.
Any and all flat beds would be mounted differently, but in this case no there was no troubles with a load, still had a few inches. The mud flaps on the other hand touch the ground.
I'm running 8R19.5 on the rear, many (all?) of the metric size 19.5 tires that would fit on these 6" wide rims are shorter overall diameter. In my mind 8R19.5 is the ideal tire choice here, tall and skinny.
Agreed Grigg. I met a guy who put 70 series 19.5s on his truck. He said you could barely turn the front wheels. Tall and skinny is the answer. I just picked up 6 new tires on Saturday. Chinese but well made. 12 ply radials. Made by a company called Double Coin. Still looking for rim No. 7 spare. Best - Joe
Last week we'd known snow was coming on Thursday so every evening after work I had planned to rearrange the garage with three goals in mind. First get the GMC tucked away until spring. Second make room to work on axles and other small projects. Third try to squeeze my car in.
Only trouble was every evening I had other "more important" things to do. Until Thursday I took the whole day off work to help a friend move and figured we'd be done early (he estimated only one u-haul truck load). So I planned to sort the garage when I got home after lunch. Moving went well but come Thursday night we had totaled 3 truck loads, several car loads, and still one more load at the old house waiting to be loaded and moved. By the time I got home 11 or 12 hours later I was thoroughly worn out, no energy for the garage. That was OK though, the forecast said the snow wouldn't come until 10 or 11:00 in the morning.... Until I woke up at 7:30 and checked again to find the show was now expected any minute.
So in the snow I unloaded the truck, moved axles and pallets around and packed it all back in the garage. PICTURE 1 PICTURE 2
Over the 3 day weekend we totaled 13" and stayed home. I started to disassemble the brakes on a 2007 model GM single wheel AAM 11.5" rear axle. PICTURE 3 PICTURE 4 I'd like to eventually have disc brakes front and rear and faster axle gears yet. So I'll be swapping a 14 bolt rear axle and replacing the drums with these late model disc. (Not using this 2007 axle complete because it is to wide and quite expensive) There are companies that sell simple caliper brackets to put 70-80's front 3/4 ton disc brakes on the rear 14 bolt but (to me) they don't really seem suitable/large enough for a working 1 ton truck. They also don't have a good strong parking brake option. I think these new model disc brakes with parking brake drum inside the rotor address both issues; considering they come from a modern 1 ton with a pretty substantial weight capacity and capable of quite high road speeds.
Next, seat belts? wiring harness? More axle/brake stuff?
Seat belts are apparently in the mail. They were waiting on a part to ship which I knew when I placed the order. Apparently taking longer than they expected so they asked if I'd be OK with slight change to the order, (almost insignificant) and a 10% refund; they should now show up this week.
Over the last few weeks I've been scratching my head, rounding up parts, taking measurements and notes all to figure out a 14 bolt axle swap and late model disc brakes with internal drum type parking brake. I like good brakes a lot... Also these old 14" drums are nearly non existent, on the other hand modern brake parts can be had now and for years to come. The 14 bolt GM axle is a very similar but newer 1 ton rear axle that replaced the Eaton in 1973. See and help with the late model brake discussion in this thread. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...del_GM_disc_brake_swap_.html#Post1146672
If you are wondering what happened to progress, as Grigg mentioned in his last post, he has taken the topic of "Late model GM disc brake swap -- with parking brake" over to the Tons O' Fun forum.
He's got a "ton" of information there on the topic. As Blind1968 said, "He's a one man research department."
Yes, sorry it's been a while. I was working on disc brakes, that's been fun.
The last 3 weeks I've spent my time on cleaning and shuffling the shop around to make room for a new machine. Please Let's keep this thread/journal on topic with the GMC but if you're curious about my latest diversion follow along here .
In the meantime I've been scratching my head and reviewing seat belt mounting options and details. When I can get the truck out of the garage again it'll be time to document and install the belts.
This past Saturday I picked up yet another rear axle for the 51 GMC. 1st one I bought 5 years ago in anticipation of the 1 ton I was going to have "eventually". Didn't find out untill I got into it but unfortunately had spun a wheel bearing and a carrier bearing, not terrible but not good enough for a "keep it forever" kind of truck. 2nd one I bought from a friend and local junkyard owner, It has the 3.73 axle gears I want and I hoped would yield a good housing too. However it has severe rusting on the bottom of the axle tubes (Priced very well for just the gears though). 3rd one is from an RV with 88,000 miles and at least on the outside looks real nice, no rusty tubes or terribly bad seals. It has 4.10 gears that I won't use.
These are all 14 bolt axles, GM 1 ton dual wheel but narrow from a "Cab and Chassis" never from a truck with a dually pickup bed. I did learn/concluded that the C&C axle from a step van or RV is likely to have shock mounts both on the front of the axle tube, while one from a pickup cab truck has one shock mount front and one rear. This makes the P30 or RV or step van (whatever you call them) axles a slightly better choice if using the original optional AD upper rear shock mounts.
Next seat belts when I can again get the truck out of the garage,
OK, after 3 months of quiet time for the GMC he has emerged from the garage. luckily it was an overcast day and no shadow was seen, thus predicting a pleasant spring and summer for old truck activities...
I'd have had the truck out sooner except in the meantime I bought a new engine lathe and moved my old one just inside the garage door anticipating a quick sale which hasn't happened. With a friends help and equipment we moved the lathe out, extracted the truck, and put the lathe deeper in the garage. photos of the lathe adventures from a couple months ago. Lathe Adventures
First addressed the fuel leak as it pulled out the garage leaving a drip every couple inches. The fuel line from pump to carb instead of an original steel line was a rubber hose installed by the previous owner. It looked in pretty good condition and not old from the outside but the inside was all cracked and causing leaks at the ends. I replaced it with some better quality rubber fuel hose (that's actually 15 years old, a fleamarket find). I'll go back to the original if and when I have the front clip off and can easily get to the front of the engine. Second I replaced the spark plugs with NGK XR5 gapped at 0.030" on the recommendation of several other bolters. Truck runs at least as good and likely better with the new plugs. PICTURE 1 Plugs and fuel line
Now seat belts. This project turned out to be really quick and easy; much to my surprise after thinking about it and reading other tales and how to's on seat belt installs.
First I removed the seats and seat frame which revealed a very broken mount on the drivers side and some broken spot welds on the seat frame. PICTURE 2 cracket seat mount Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture after, but imagine that as a spider web of welds and a bit of new metal. Center seat brace was much easier, drill out failed spot welds and plug weld to repair. PICTURE 3 seat brace before PICTURE 4 seat brace after
These are the belts I ordered pictured complete with invoice and part numbers. They all worked out fine however I'd get the fixed end longer next time though 20" does work OK (you'll see why later). PICTURE 5 seat belts and invoice
Where to mount them in the center? I sat in the seat and measured/estimated that my hip was 5" from center as I'd normally sit/drive. So I installed the center anchors 10" apart and centered in the cab. They're as close to the riser as the hardware allows, 5/8". PICTURE 6 center seat belt anchor holes
This is the only tricky part where a little head scratching comes in. If you now pass those seat belt straps up through the seat they have to take a pretty circuitous rout to get out between the cushions. Ideally the seat belt straps are straight from anchor to your lap however this is not possible in an AD truck without modification. Here's the modification, two slots in the seat frame back for them to exit from. PICTURE 7 belt slot layout PICTURE 8 belt slot cutting PICTURE 9 belt slot deburing/rounding As you can see again 10" on center. Slots are 2.5" wide, 1/2" tall and centered about 5/8" down on the seat frame. Real easy to cut by first drilling the end holes and connect with jigsaw. Did a good job softening the edges with file, deburing tool, and flossing with sand paper. I'll look into using a length of very small rubber hose split and fit over the sheetmetal to make a sort of grommet to further soften the edge. PICTURE 10 center belts installed.
The outside anchors for the retractors turned out to be exceptionally easy. I would use these same locations (or nearly so) and method for plain non retractable lap belts and also for shoulder belts. Figured this out by just holding the retractor about where it made good sense, allowed straight line to hips, and where it fit and where anchor plate/nut under the cab would fit. These ended up being 3-5/8" back from the seat riser and at that point about 2-1/8" in from the radius edge of the cab floor. Drilled a small pilot hole from the top and then under the cab to drill/enlarge to full size, 7/16". PICTURE 11 outside belt hole locations PICTURE 12 approx. angle/assembly of retractor and angle bracket. PICTURE 13 Installed, same on other side.
This whole seat belt project including the weld repairs to my seat frame and mount only took a couple hours from removal to reinstalling the seats including head scratching and figuring out the plan. One of the only times I've ever completed a project in less time than I estimated. Installing seat belts can be done without welding and without removing the gas tank! The 20" center belts are shown at full extension, if you'd like the buckle to be at your front instead of your side then they'd need to be longer. The retractable part is plenty long to reach either way. PICTURE 14 seat belts done PICTURE 15 seat belt from the side
Next, prepping for the 4-5 hour drive to the Stovebolt Homecoming in a couple weeks. Homecoming Info
Update on the seat belts: they work just great and fit well. The retractable lap belts however do want to retract and sometimes with a bump in the road they suck you further into the seat and don't let go. This is a minor annoyance and may be able to overcome it with technique. But if this would really bother you I suggest save your money and just get plain lap belts that you manually adjust. Or spend more money and get shoulder belts.
Sunday I pulled out of storage two old but little used 8R19.5 tires I collected at a swap meet a number of years ago. Monday had the tire shop remove some 225/70/19.5 tires from the other two 19.5 wheels I have and mount and balance the 8R19.5 tires. Those modern tires were a little shorter and fatter than the 8R19.5. The 8R19.5 are almost the very same dimensions as the original 7.00-18 tires.
I hadn't ever unbolted the front wheels until yesterday and found a couple stripped nuts and most of them had pulled/weak looking threads anyhow. PICTURE 1 Stripped threads Luckily the studs are all OK, the nuts must have been soft, perhaps not original? And likely they had been over torqued on several occasions. The shop manual does list the torque specs, and for 1/2-20 it's about 75 ftlb PICTURE 2 Torque specs. After putting off buying a good 1/2" drive torque wrench with the hope of finding a deal on a used one I bit the bullet and bought a new Snap-On TQFR-250 on sale last week. Now I can torque lug nut of all sizes.
Back to the nuts, what I have are 1/2-20 with 3/4" over the flats, this is a common off the hardware store shelf variety of hex nut. Curious if this was correct/original I looked in the parts manual and sure enough the originals were also 3/4" over the flats. I would have guessed they were over size or "heavy" hex nuts but apparently not. I'll order or pick up some nuts today.
The old tires as I removed them were quite a bit out of balance judging by how they really wanted to rotate heavy side down. They were also old, quite old, and one in terrible shape. I'd known they were old but didn't know how bad they were or had gotten and to think I'd had the truck up to 70 mph... PICTURE 3 Nasty tire
Can't wait to take it for a spin with the new balanced front tires and wheels and see how the ride is.
Next more trip prep, and then research and head scratching on the wiring harness I need to order soon.
Good news on the tires Grigg. That one 8r19.5 we picked up in W. VA holds air but I don't see myself using it. I am looking to pick up a good spare one day. Hope all is well. I would love to see a full on picture of the truck with all 6 19.5's when you get a chance. - Joe
Lug nuts came in yesterday so I swapped out all 32 and torqued them to 75 ftlb.
The new (old) Michelin 19.5" front tires are nice and round and smooth riding. Here's that picture you wanted Joe, PICTURE
It's nice to have modern and more reliable tires than the old crusty 18" I had but this comes at the expense of funny looking wheels for a 1 ton AD dual wheel truck.
Thanks, They look fine but they're not the original 8 hand hole wheels that pretty much only these 1 ton trucks had. Some folks really like the looks of those original wheels. Functional and reliable suits me.
Speaking of wheels, some months ago there was a craigslist link in the Swap Meet section for some 8 lug 19.5" single wheels. I looked at the ad and they were not cheap wheels, several hundred $$. They also came with tires which usually just add to the cost/bulk of shipping/hauling old used wheels and then the aggravation and expense of removing and disposing of the dead tires. A few days later I was still thinking of them and perhaps they could be had for less money, never hurts to ask...
So I called and talked to the guy and learned that the tires were less than 4 years old (by the date codes) and comparing to Goodyear's listed new tread depth they have no measurable wear. https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/...dline=160105&prodcode=13906502800000 Looked up the price on those tires and they're $300-$350 each! Suddenly the asking price for wheels and tires seemed more reasonable. Essentially I could buy a couple tires and get a Free set of hard to find wheels and a few more Free tires to boot. These Goodyear G633RSD tires are the tires I wanted for the truck anyhow, I'd have to buy them sooner or later.
The wheels and tires were in Michigan but close enough to a friend's shop and as luck would have it he was making a service call right close to where the wheels were. I mailed a check to my friend who cashed it and picked up the goods. Then two weeks ago he was making a trip to PA and dropped them off near Carlisle for me. So Friday/Saturday I drove up to PA picked 'em up, visited some friends and a bunch of yard sales and junk shops.
New 8R19.5 tires and single wheels. Remember eventually I will make this a pickup truck with single wheels. PHOTO 1 Next for these I need to line up a powder coater and decide/research colors, so far I'm thinking black.
I found a local powder coater that had some kind of primer coat first, then color(green) then clear on top for about $100. each, a few years ago. (22.5's)
Ed
Last edited by EdPruss; 05/03/20163:22 AM.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Thanks Ed, I had some done very nicely up in WV now about 10 years ago, wow how time flies. They cost me about $30 each at the time. A couple years ago the same shop was over $100 per wheel.
Just called a much more local powder coating shop (I haven't used them before) and they will sandblast, prime with a zinc rich primer, and color for ~$85 per wheel. Sounds like they know their stuff and I've heard good things about them, worth a try.
Back on Page 4 you mentioned the wiring harness. I think I might be interested if the guy can make me something reasonably priced. Can you share his info? Maybe I missed it.
I haven't yet ordered my wiring harness partly because I'm still doing research on just what I want. I'd like an original style harness but with included turn signals and wires to the back for trailer lights and brake. This was not an option on my model truck but the COE wiring diagram does include most of these features.
In the next few weeks when I get some more literature/diagrams I'll do some comparisons and editing and come up with a mostly original harness diagram with correct/period color codes for the added features.
The wiring harness shop I will be using is www.brillman.com just an hour or so up the road from me.
About 3 weeks ago I readied the truck for it's first long drive and it's first visit to John and Peggy's for the Stovebolt Homecoming. About 190 miles one way in the rain and uphill both ways.. It was actually a very nice drive, Alec gave me some rain-x which worked wonderfully enough to never turn on the wiper (that only works a little bit anyhow).
Alec met me at the local gas station serving real gas, I topped up and we headed out. We/I crested Afton Mountain on Rt250 in 3rd gear no trouble at all. At the bottom of the mountain we got on the highway for a few exits to save a little time and miss Charlottesville before getting off and meeting Jim for breakfast on Rt15 in Gordonsville.
After breakfast I lead them along to another fill up of real gas at the Southern States in Fredericksburg and on over the river on Rt301 to the Homecoming.
Here are two pictures of the trucks at breakfast. PIC. 1 PIC. 2
The drive home was also nice, better with no rain. this time we again crested Afton Mt. on Rt250 but we decended on the interstate. I think we generally traveled at 50-55 although slower climbing and even faster on the interstate. I actually passed a semi truck climbing a hill on I-64 outside of Charlottesville! The little ol'228 that could.
The past two weekends I've been using the truck to transport ice cream fixings to different parties, it does well with a load but it's certianly more nimble empty. Here are two albums with some details of the diesel powered ice cream maker. This one is the original construction as 8 Qt. capacity https://goo.gl/photos/v71bXDjhbEzYAbsV9 The next album of converting it to 20 Qt. capacity https://goo.gl/photos/vYXYQ7pXgzESwiFp8
Next, (in a few weeks or more) probably wiring harness and or back to working on different axles with modern brakes.
I was feeling bad for not having worked on the truck and therefore nothing to update the thread with. Until I remembered that the best part of having an old truck is driving it, which is just what I've been doing! Apparently this running driving truck thing is still new to me after almost 10 years of just having project trucks and "playing with the truck" ment spending time and money working on it.
So I've driven it to work a day here and there when the weather is nice. Few weeks ago drove it around on the weekend including going to an old farm auction. Today I drove it to work and some errands before and after hauling some heavy greasy stuff.
A few weeks ago I almost finished the research on my wiring diagram/harness. The diagrams and discussion about them can be found here https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread..._GMC_wiring_info/diagra.html#Post1170844 Next I should do some cut and paste to add the couple extra functions I want to the stock diagram and finally talk to the harness maker and order it.
Last week I drove the GMC to work one day and arranged to pick up my now retired (8 years ago) high school shop teacher for a short ride to lunch at the BBQ place in town.
16 or 19 years ago (has it actually been that long?) I didn't have much fun in high school except for perhaps Geometry and my time in small engine repair class taught by Mr. Knick. He owned and operated his own auto repair shop in town which combined with his own tinkering, racing, and general good natured trouble making resulted in an accumulation countless stories and un-measurable knowledge in all things mechanical. By the time I met him he was the long time small engine and auto mechanic shop teacher at the local technical school turned high school.
As part of the first semester we had a partner, a workbench, small tool box, and a B&S engine. We first disassembled the engine, cleaned, measured, checked and eventually reassembled, started and adjusted it. Sounds simple now but was quite the job back then, we even had to read the manual.. and sometimes look up parts on the microfiche machine. At some point he challenged us students to fiddle with a known running engine and make it not run anyway short of causing actual damage to it. Then within some unbelievable short amount of time, like minutes, he bet us he could have it fixed and running again. We did basic stuff like carburetor adjustments, improper spark plug gap, no or sheared flywheel key, and tricky things like draw a pencil line down the porcelain insulator on the spark plug, plug the vent in the gas cap.. and I forget what all else. Sure enough he'd come back in the shop and in quite literally no time he had it running again. It seemed like fun then and little did we know it was a real clever way of helping us understand and learn how engines run, what they need, what symptoms are caused by what problems and what to do about it. Mr. Knick's plethora of stories of fixing and troubleshooting countless mowers and vehicles among other life stories only added to our education. Like the one of driving an old British sports care so low to the ground he could open the door and throw sparks by holding the bottom of a steel beer can to the pavement. You can't even make these sorts of stories up, much less tell them in public school today.
I forget now how many semesters I had with Mr. Knick because even when I didn't have an actual class I'd come in at lunch or any free time and work on my own projects. He usually left the door open but even when he hadn't I could quickly "unlock" it with the 6" steel scale I always had in my pocket (though I never told him that part). Projects included fiddling with some of my old hit and miss type engines and swapping the 235 engine in my 52 Chevy PU for another I had rebuilt.
Took me a several years to realize just how much I had learned from him though I expect he knew at the time. Simple things and good practices like always troubleshoot the easiest and cheapest cause first, remember the basics and and after eliminating the cheap things then look into the more expensive causes/solutions. My second year in HS he held a seemingly informal competition and test and soon enough I was in Richmond competing against students from other regions for the state championship of small engine repair in VICA (now SkillsUSA). That summer he took me to the National competition in KC where I finished 4th. A few years later he had a student finish even higher, first in the nation if I'm not mistaken.
Anyhow I had been thinking how important that time and those experiences were to me and that I ought to tell Mr. Knick as much while possible. He's always been curious what trucks and old stuff I've been playing with and I hadn't yet showed him the GMC so a ride across town and back for a BBQ lunch seemed like the right way to go about all that.
I remember sitting and talking with my 90+ year old grandmother at a family reunion once, for QUITE a while. After she got tired and laid down, my Dad told me that was the nicest thing I could have done for her. She was nearly blind and hard of hearing and just sat most of the time. (She didn't walk well enough to mingle.) So...she couldn't read or watch TV or really hear a room full of people that well, so someone sitting and listening to her stories was about all the entertainment she had. I learned a thing or two I'd bet too.
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns..... 1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-Ton The GreenMachine In the Stovebolt Gallery
Couple weekends ago I freed up the rusty hinges on the cowl vent. It's a nice thing to have, keeps your feet cooler. My 52 someone had filled in the vent so I never really tried one before.
Recently we attended a community ice cream supper which earlier in the week I had helped to churn about 87 gallons of the total 238 gallons of ice cream served. Here is Pic. 1 of churning. A good friend was visiting so the three of us squished in the GMC and made the 30-40 minute drive that Saturday evening. Brought along the ice cream maker in the back of the truck for show and tell gee-wizz type thing.
While unloading the ice cream maker the cat was checking out the truck. Pic. 2
Drove the GMC to work yesterday because it was a nice day and not terribly hot.
Keep thinking I'll get a chance to work on rear axle(s) for the truck but I keep coming up with other projects and places to go. Not sure when I'll get back to that, perhaps October. In the meantime my regular car will be in the shop for a day or two and a week or two between dropping it off and fetching so I'll get to drive the GMC for a while.
After seeing the ice cream maker, your trailer design makes a lot more sense. Seen them both in pics, but not together. Like you, I think truck progress will continue in October, maybe December. LOL.
This recent Monday, Labor Day, I still had to work (suppose that's how they came up with the name...)
The local fire dept has festivities all day including a flea market, food, music, a car show, and some other good stuff. Last week I helped churn some of the ice cream they served Monday.
I got up early and drove the GMC so I could check out the flea market on my way to work. (Lucked into buying a nice Rockwell drill press for a friend). Later I returned for a long lunch and to sample the ice cream before heading back to work. The car show was forming up so they gave me a front and center parking spot. Pic. 1 I wasn't there long enough for the judging which is OK by me. Though come Wednesday we learn I was apparently there long enough to get a picture in the paper. (editors choice award?) Pic. 2Pic. 3
You may notice I swapped out the square mirrors for some mismatched round ones donated by a fellow Stovebolter, they look better to me and seem to provide a better view of behind. Perhaps they're smaller/lighter and wiggle less, or might be curved slightly. The Drivers side is even tinted which is quite nice.
Been driving the truck a lot this week as I deal with car troubles. That's a good thing because I'm beginning to get the hang of this old truck driving stuff again! I had driven my 52 pretty much exclusively for several years in school and came to quite enjoy the feel of it. However the GMC, though it seemed familiar at first, was kind of awkward and rough around the edges; harder to shift and drive it as smooth as I remembered being able to do. So now 10 or 13 years without having a running driving truck I'm quickly relearning the little peculiarities and tricks to operating such a fine machine, and it's more and more fun!
I'm having such a good time driving this thing that I'm seriously considering it for a 1,200 mile round trip scheduled for next week.
Thanks Grigg! Great to hear that you and the truck are forming a bond!
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
The past month with the truck has been fun. My car is still in the shop so I've been driving the GMC a few days a week.
Several weeks ago helped some friends split firewood one Saturday, used the truck to haul the splitter. Took a nice picture. PIC 1
Then ice cream for a picnic at work, hauled the ice cream maker in the truck.
Couple weekends ago drove it up to Winchester for the truck show and Stovebolt/ODSS gathering. On the way stopped to visit a junkyard and fetch some 19.5" single wheels. Also visited with and ordered the wiring harness from www.brillman.com I'm looking forward to getting that done this fall/winter. The show was great, the company better, and the food delicious. Thread about the show Couple pictures of some fine AD trucks and a set of 1 tons. PIC 2 PIC 3 The drive up and back was quite nice. Alec followed along and joined and helped at the various stops, like our Friday morning workout at the junkyard, thanks again.
Last weekend was my wife's birthday and she elected to drive/ride to West Virginia for an outing and corned beef sandwiches, and she wanted to take the GMC! (The best corned beef sandwiches ever www.irishpubonwashingtonstreet.com ) We took RT 60, (also the old Rt 60 by various other names) and a fair stretch on the interstate, including mostly interstate home after dark. About 75-80 miles one way and the truck drove and rode well. Tested out the overdrive coming down the mountain on the home stretch, the truck handles quite well at speed, steering is nice and tight. Not sure I believe it but calculated 17-18 MPG after filling up Monday, perhaps I didn't get it entirely full, though it sure seemed like it?
Next, I'd really like to get that 14 bolt axle built...
He jerked my chain too! That's a 'Virginia Overdrive'!
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
Amounted to almost 3 months with the GMC as my daily driver. Car is all repaired now just in time to tuck the truck safely away in the garage for winter, assuming we get some snow soon and can call it winter.
Seemed to need a lot of gas and only some oil over the past few months.
Had to repair the seat back frame one day after a clip broke off. Some others had been repaired with screws once before. This time I rewelded the busted spot welds on the others and the broken off clip. Not wanting to strip the upholstery or start a fire I used the TIG welder becuse it's clean and neat plus some aluminum foil as a shield to catch any stray sparks, not sure there were any. PIC. 1 PIC. 2
I'd like to swap the pickup bed from my 52 onto the GMC soon. Also prepare a 14 bolt rear axle and assemble a disc brake single wheel front axle. Unfortunately for the GMC I have a growing job/project in the machine shop after recently working out a lot of details and fixtures and now finally into production. Perhaps in the new year that will taper off to a more moderate pace and leave me some time and funds to work on the GMC.
Last weekend I did drive the truck into town for a few errands and to haul some lumber home for a project.
Checked on the somewhat custom wiring harness I'm having made. The shop owner has it started and got busy with other stuff, and I explained from the start I was in no rush... We've agreed that I'll have something to work with before long, still no rush just about time to get it done.
Thinking about driving the truck to visit some friends Saturday, still nice weather and we've had some good rain after the last road salt application a couple weeks ago.
Been thinking lately about doing the bed swap and just not worrying about the rust and crust on the pickup bed at this time.
One week ago today a few friends & Stovebolters left early in the morning for the annual Stovebolt Homecoming in MD.
I led the charge in the 51 GMC and had a reasonable route picked out with the minimum of interstate driving only where much quicker/straighter than the smaller roads. About 40-50 minutes into the drive we're on I-64 headed east just for one exit when Alec calls ahead and says let's just crest the mountain on the interstate... Sure, why not? His reasoning is it's not as steep as the old road. We were moving along at about 55-58 MPH, and sure enough we climbed the mountain without losing any speed. Staid on the highway another 30 miles, no problems.
On the way back home we again took the interstate over the mountain but headed West it's a whole lot more hill. Again the GMC was able to keep up a good pace, but 55ish was all it could do, and did well. Down hill on the other side was a comfortable 60 mph at an idle..
It was nice to drive the GMC on a long trip, makes me think about even longer trips in the future.
Otherwise not much time for the truck lately, and probably not anytime soon
Very inspirational Grigg! Sounds like your 'Virginia Overdrive' did well on the sunset side of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
Just filled the truck up after the trip. From MD back home driving pretty briskly and still managed 14.5 MPG in a 1 ton.
Now I'm curious what mileage it'll get at a more relaxed pace, without any interstate driving.
Also took a good quart of oil for the entire trip to homecoming and back, mostly leaked, don't think it burns much or any.
Using the truck yesterday to fetch big coolers full of ice and today to haul ice cream maker. About to make 4.5 gallons each of Mint chocolate chip, my favorite, and coffee.
Last night removed the rear view mirror and center trim strip from my 52 (now a parts truck) and installed it in the 51. Been meaning to do that for a while and finally did!
Over the weekend took the truck to the drive in movie, that's always fun with chairs setup in the bed.
Back in September I drove it to a show about 120 miles up the road, took the scenic rout up and a different way home, no interstate. Drove it a few other times, and developed a small coolant leak from the radiator. Haven’t really had time to work on it, just backed it in the garage a little earlier for winter. Before spring I’ll try to test and repair this radiator or a spare I already have.
Finally after Christmas and before I go back to work I’ve had some time to work on a new/replacement rear axle. It’s been a year or more ago I bought the parts needed, and probably 5 years ago the axle.
Axle is a 14 bolt from a 1985 RV of some sort. Came with 4.10 gears, same as I have in the original Eaton now. I’d like to try 3.73, and have those gears from another 14 bolt with a bad housing, if necessary later I can go back to 4.10 or any number of other available gear ratios. Brakes will be disc with internal drum parking from a 2005 GM 3/4 or 1 ton. Everything is disassembled and housing is mostly clean, more cleaning to do and some welding, then reassembly.
I’ll post more details and discuss the axle upgrade stuff in the tons of fun section This thread
Grigg
Last edited by Grigg; 01/05/20187:13 PM. Reason: add link
Yesterday a day off work for errands. Dropped off the single wheels at powder coater for blasting, priming, and color. A friend previously steam cleaned and degreased them. I removed the riveted on hubcap clips so a better job can be done blasting and coating. Later I’ll tap for 10-32 helicoil, install thread inserts, and use 1/4” 10-32 stainless button head Allen screws to reattach clips. Original was 3/16x3/8” universal head solid steel rivet, hole in wheel was to large for a #10 screw, #12 is not as common, and 1/4” would be extra large, thus the helicoil to get back to #10 screw. Clips are then removable and replaceable if desired.
Got to pick out a color, the color for the whole truck! GMCs then could have wheels body color and I like that look. Original color was red, (its blue now) and I like red, so one day it’ll be red again, starting with the wheels. To find original color I removed the cowl vent, well protected from the weather and sun on bottom side. Cleaned, polished, and waxed some to reveal the true color. Decided it’d be best to pick a good match to readily available powder coat color and later match paint color (body) to that, and if it’s ever so slightly not original color I’m not bothered.
Not sure what to do about hubcaps, I think white was original for 51, guess I'll see how they look on red wheels, if not a good look perhaps stainless if available.
Last edited by Grigg; 02/03/20183:04 PM. Reason: add pictures
I have a 52 GMC 9430 longbox dump pickup (Canadian version of your 3800). I am trying to locate rear brake cables. Have you found any sources when you where repairing your truck?
Thank you for including the pictures for installing seat belts. I have been trying to figure out how to install them in y 52 one ton. Your truck is a flatbed with duals, mine has a pickup box. Do you think dual wheels will fit on my pickup? Where did you find the dual wheel rims to fit your truck?
Glad you found the seat belt info helpful. Not sure if I mentioned it already but in hindsight I would install shoulder belt, and intend to do so with addition of a mount on the pillar, the other mount locations are unchanged.
Mine will also be a pickup box with single wheels eventually, already running the single wheels. The 18" duals came on my truck. Guess I did switch to 19.5 dual for a while from a GM truck, commonly on 8 lug bread trucks and similar, but somewhat difficult to find these days. likely new 19.5 dual wheels are available if used can't easily be found. Dual wheels do not fit in the original fenders and pickup box. Some have figured out how to do it but lots of sheet metal work, not at all an easy thing to do. Again check the Tons 'o Fun section.
It seems this thread is somewhat out of date with my truck progress.
A couple years ago I did get the freshly powder coated single 19.5" wheels back and installed with slightly used Goodyear 8R19.5 tires.
The right front kingpin appeared to be suddenly become quite sloppy causing wheel shimmy and reduced interest in driving it like it is. Not sure what happened as the king pin and bushings seemed quite snug during previous brake and wheel services. Perhaps it had old crusty grease in there taking up the sloop that I eventually flushed out with fresh grease?
Also the front right brake had one shoe down to the rivets. As a temporary measure I removed the one rivet it was about to contact and reversed the two shoes on that side. That allowed me to drive it a few miles locally to an event a couple years ago. I haven't driven it much now other than in and out of the garage occasionally and to the dumpster around the corner.
I did find some NOS front brake shoes and I could replace king pins and bushings... However long term plans call for a front axle with disc brakes, which I have been gathering parts and doing research for for probably 10-12 years. So I'm more eager to get that sorted out than to replace and repair the original brakes/axle.
To that end I have recently modified a 2 ton axle beam to more or less fit the 1 ton truck and allow using spindles and large disc brakes from a GM P-30 (bread truck and similar). More to come on that as I get it assembled.
Two pictures attached. One from a show probably 2 and a half years ago and I can't remember now if I drove it or hauled it or if that was before or after the kingpin slop issue arose. Second picture of what the truck does these days, sits in the garage.
The updated front axle/brakes project is again taking longer than desired. I got impatient and fixed the original front axle yesterday, it wasn't that big of a deal.
The right front kingpin had worn the axle oversize, thus all the slop, bushings were pretty good. The axle cleaned up about 90% at 0.010" oversize which is all I could find for an oversize kingpin kit, would have used 0.020" of available. NAPA is where I get most of my drivetrain and chassis parts but no luck this time, 1 ton kingpins (from NAPA) are obsolete now, even standard size. I did find a NOS 0.010" oversize kit on ebay thankfully not that far away in Virginia and Cosmo was able to pick it up and meet me Tuesday while he was running other old truck errands.
All I did was replace the right side kingpin and added a little loctite 660 to hopefully help with the little bit of fit that was lacking. Reamed the old bushings to fit the oversize kingpin, cleaned, greased, and reused the thrust bearing. Left side kingpin and bushings are good and tight so I left them alone.
I had previously found a set of NOS front brake shoes which I installed yesterday.
Now I'm ready to drive it Friday to a friend's house an hour or so away, possibly a couple hours if I take some even more remote back roads.
Lately I've been itching for a good long road trip, I really like road trips... Took one for work in the modern car a few weeks ago to and from Michigan. On the return we avoided the highway for 90% of it and that was a lot of fun with all sorts of neat things to look at. I've always enjoyed taking the local roads/non interstate but that recent trip got me thinking I should take a trip and not only avoid the highway but try to take the even smaller roads that still generally point in the direction I want to end up. That kind of trip would be even more interesting and enjoyable in the old truck, thus the renewed enthusiasm for working on the GMC.
