The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Problem solved?

I want to thank all you guys who have helped me thus far in getting my truck running. I finally bit the bullet and drove up to Austin for the 235.
It looks pretty good. Not quite as good as the pics, but good. It's missing the filter housing and the last manifold bolt is broken in there. Questions: 1. Can the oil passages be blocked off to run it without a filter while I get one? 2. Anyone know what I can use/where I may find a clutch alignment tool?

Do you know what year motor it is? That will help answer questions.

I believe 56. I will verify tomorrow.

Those aren't bolts at the ends of the manifold, they're alignment studs that screw into the head. Some people remove the studs and substitute bolts, but it's not necessary and might contribute to warping the exhaust manifold if they're overtightened.

The only engine that must run a filter or a bypass line is the late-production 261 that has been set up for full-flow filtration. You can simply remove the flex lines and plug the holes in the block on all the bypass filter systems. That subject has been beaten to death by several people here, so you should be able to find a ton of information on full flow filters with a search. At least some of the info is actually correct.
Jerry

0251872F56X of on the pad.

It's the last bolt before the alignment dowel, Jerry. I've got an extractor kit, but I'm out of bits. I think I'll try a left hand bit to see if it catches on its way in and doubles as an extractor.

I think the 216s in cars used bolts instead of the alignment pins at the ends. Anyone know the reason for that?

It looks like all 216, 235, and 261 engine from 1949 onwards used the dowel-end studs at both ends of the head?
It looks like the dowel-end studs were not used before 1949?

Group 3.275, part number 3835487

Be sure you center punch the broken-off bolt dead center before you start drilling, as you'll only have one opportunity to get it right. I've seen untold numbers of damaged threads from getting a drill bit very slightly off-center when trying to remove a broken bolt.
Jerry

Tim, ALL Chevrolet 6-cylinder engines used end studs with brass nuts starting in 1929.

Mike B

It seems the front engine mount was fabricated on my existing 235 and not done too well. I suppose the original 228/248 (?) was longer. To compensate for the shorter 235, they welded a flat piece of metal to the front cross member. In the process, the nuts now barely clear the cross member. So, I was unable to remove them. Between the rust and only being too get an open ended wrench on it , they weren't budging. I will grind them off tomorrow morning because I have to return the engine hoist I borrowed. I also do not see any provision for the carriage bolts on the new engine.

edit-My irrelevant pictures & comment removed
Brad

My front mount is like the one pictured here:http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/motor_mount_front/

Does anyone have a clutch alignment tool I can purchase/borrow (I'll pay for shipping both ways)?
BTW, I found it really awkward that the bellhousing comes out AFTER the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel due to the forward facing bolts inside the bellhousing.

Any auto parts store will have a plastic clutch alignment tool, either for sale or loan, and most clutch/pressure plate kits have one included in the box. The same clutch spline was used by Chevy for over 40 years on most applications, 6 cylinder and V8.
Jerry

PM sent

Broken bolt? I recently popped the bolts in a Harmonic Damper while trying to pull it with SAE grade 2 bolts. When the bolt pulled apart it left a very jagged edge which would be impossible to center punch and drill on center. Using a
4-flute mill cutter the size of the tap drill I took the
point off, which presented a relativly flat surface for the
drill. However almost half the bolt diameter was still torn
away.
Solution was to use a drill bushing to keep the drill on center.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/161629463/original
Needles to say, SAE Grade 8 bolts were used on the next try!
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/161629486/large
Denny Graham

Update:
My mechanic had an assortment of alignment tools. I was able to borrow it from him and the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel are now installed and torqued to spec. Now I just need to take care of the broken bolt, borrow a hoist, and get a buddy to help me lign up the tranny and install the engine.

I was unable to get that broken bolt out. I'm going to pull the stud on the end and put a bolt on there to hopefully compensate for that missing bolt. I'm tearing down my engine to have access to any necessary parts and bolts. I'm also hoping the mounting area will be able to swap between the engines to not have to modify the mounting area on the new one. I also pulled the mounting plate that was welded on the crossmember in order to decide how to modify it so that a socket/wrench can be put on those bottom nuts.

Does anyone know a seller (or alternatively: a suitable replacement) for the radiator support mount rubber? It was so brittle that just using the garden hose and a sprayer to clean it out made it fall apart.

What make, year, and size truck/radiator-support?

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/shop/...case=&searchtype=FT&Seach=Search

http://www.classicparts.com/searchprods.asp

Truck is a 1953 GMC, engine is a '56 Chevy truck. Thanks for the links! I'll take since measurements and see if one of these will do.

Discarded truck mud flaps provide great material for items like a radiator support cushion.

Great tip! Do I just stack until I get to the desired height?

Yes - start with one.

Metal shims were also used to obtain the desired height.

Do you suppose body shims would work?

I'd want more surface area than a typical body shim, the front sheet metal is all resting on that one point. If the small shims get pushed into the rubber it could cause alignment issues with the doors and hood.

Mike B

It is imperative to have the rubber spacer between the radiator support and the crossmember at the correct thickness for proper alignment of the front clip. It it isn't correct, the hood will not fit properly at the cowl.
Carl

Sounds a lot more technical than I originally thought... I'm not sure how it was all working before with such a mess of what was left. I suppose for just a smidge over $10 I'll just go with the kit.

All the Chevy pads are two pieces... mine is off a GMC and seems to be one piece more like the '39-'46 Chevy ones in the Chevs of the 40s link provded above. Does anyone know if GMC stuck with the earlier design for longer??

Local FLAPS had some "big truck" mud flaps for sale at 10.00 each. A pair of tin snips and a few minutes later I had 6 perfect pads. 2 for me and 4 for a friend. Still have some of the flap left for other projects. Was able to remake the transmission support pad with 2 small bits and a hollow punch. Not hard and that stuff is as tough as old bias ply truck tires. Seemed like a good way to fix my support issue. I did keep the old rusty metal pads to support the ones I made. A pass or 2 on the wire wheel and some black paint. Could have made those if I had needed too. Was a good way to spend the afternoon and save a few dollars. If you get a little shaky with the snips, a belt sander will smooth that stuff at the edge right nice. Add or subtract as needed. Mine was good with 1 pad at each mount point. My buddy needed 2. His used the metal pads between the "flap" pads for support. They have been in place for a year and no curling or distortion so far.

Sounds good, but my issue at the moment is that there was nothing left of what may have been my metal shims.

Those can be cut from sheet metal as well. Nothing too them just flat with a hole for the bolt.

Sounds like a good option, but for a few bucks more I could have a ready made kit... If only I could find the correct one for the GMC. Does anyone know if GMC ran the earlier Chevy design for longer?

Still waiting to hear if anyone knows about the rad mounts for the '53 GMC being the same as earlier Chevys...
On a side note, I walked over to the mechanic's today (next door to work) and he's got a fire truck with a GMC 270 that is getting pulled for a V8 and tranny swap because the transmission is shot... Kinda made me wonder about going with a GMC engine...

I seem to recall that the GMCs had an elaborate lower radiator mount. Way more to it than just flat rubber pads. I recall it having springs as part of it.
Carl

Do you dimly recall something like this, Carl

There were definitely springs on the underside of the crossmember. However, the bolts seem to be independent carriage bolts, not like the u-bolt pictured.

Yes! Very enlightening for my dimness.

Double checked my rad and the mount is definitely as the one pictured in the link above. My bad. I'm hoping to drill the front mount this coming Monday and get the engine in. I've kind of been stalling hoping to hear from my mechanic about that 270. Any opinions on 270 vs. 235?