The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Dump controls proper for 1946-47 GMC and Chev question

I have just purchased a first series 1947 GMC EC302 truck with a HEIL dump box and hydraulics. It bothers my a bit as the control levers are left of the trans shifter and in front of the gas pedal. I also have a tired 1946 Chev. 1.5 ton with a dump. The controls look the same but these controls are right of the trans shifter and out of the way. Why would the GMC be set up the way it is? I am going to look to move them to the right side. I am looking for thoughts about the controls.
Al

Usually if not always a dump bed, and likewise the controls for it, were installed by the shop that sold and installed the body, not the GM factory. They may have had some instructions but mostly they installed that stuff how they wanted, which can be different than the body dealer/installer in a different state, different than a different brand of body, and different than the other mechanic in the same shop.

Having looked at a lot of old trucks I've seen lots of things done after the truck left the factory that if I had installed whatever it was I'd do it differently. Those levers won't be the last thing you see and scratch you head as to why. Often done the quicker easier way to just get it done and get the truck out the door.

One of your levers will be the PTO, that could be easily changed to cable operation and mounted to the dash eliminating one floor lever.

Mike B

I agree with MikeB. Perhaps look at how well the floorboard was cut to accept the levers. Restomod Bubba doesn't tend to spend much time on the implementation phase and the crudeness shows. It may help you determine what was from the bed manufacturer or not.

Cool truck, take good care of it.

Mine also has the levers on the left side. The hole in the floor looks like it was put in with an axe! Haven't come up with a decent way to fix it yet. I just have a piece of tin under the floor mat which can be slid over most of the hole when not using the hoist. Then I just stuff a rag into what's left. Crude, but it works till I come up with something better.

I looks like I will be under the floorboards and making a linkage change on this dump truck! First, I need to get it to run, then to stop, then roll on decent tires....then I will change the dump linkage. I WILL NOT have the dump levers poking me in the calf of the leg while I am driving this truck. I am leaning towards replacing the original master cylinder with a power brake master cylinder/booster off a mid 70's 1 ton.
Al

Here is a decent looking NORS master cylinder for a good price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-1946-Chevrolet-Truck-1941-1946-GMC-Truck-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Assy-NOS-/281827895202?hash=item419e4067a2:g:0BAAAOSwd0BV5lDw&vxp=mtr

If the brakes are restored correctly, the single reservoir is adequate for the design parameters of the truck. I hope you are planning on replacing all of the brake lines and hoses as well as rebuilding/replacing the wheel cylinders. Inactivity from sitting long periods is hard on the hydraulic brake components.

Hello Paul, Yes, I do plan to make this truck stop. Not only the wheel cylinders, but a replacement master cylinder, (with a booster) then all tubing, hoses and fittings.
Al

Hi,Big Al,and Welcome to the "Bolt"! Sounds like your P.T.O. is mounted on the Driver's side of the transmission. Look on the opposite side,and see if there's a 6-bolt plate,matching the pattern of the P.T.O. If so,it's just a matter of replacing the P.T.O.gasket,and re-routing your lever,to the opposite side of your trans.cover.I'd think that your driveshaft should work,since the length should be the same. Just make sure to "Safety-Wire" the u-joints-otherwise they WILL come un-done. Found that out the hard way,when I replaced the P.T.O shaft,on a "Holmes" 440 wrecker unit! As far as BRAKES go, Please follow Paul's advice! A friend of mine replaced his M.C.,with a dual reservoir M.C.,and it DOES NOT BEGIN to stop his '59 Viking Bus! Better SAFE than SORRY! CHEAPER,TOO!!