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| | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | Hi. I'm removing the engine from my 48' 1 ton and I was wondering if I should mount it from the bell housing to the stand or right to the engine? And what size bolts fit those spots? I know they need to be grade 8, just unsure of the size. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Right to the engine. Those 6 cylinder are pretty long to begin with, and heavy on top of it. You don't want to add any more leverage on the stand than necessary. IIRC, as it's been a while since I had mine out, they're 1/2-13.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | Also, do I just bolt them into where the bell housing bolts into or somewhere different? | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 |
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | I like to use a couple of pieces of 1/4" X 2" flat stock to extend the upper mounting points about 3" on each side. It makes the engine stand a lot easier to set up and allows you to locate the crankshaft flange well below the pivot point of the stand to make turning the engine over for work on the crankshaft safer.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | Ok. I am having troubles with the engine removal. I have the front motor mounts all disconnected, and I can lift the front up, but the rear wont budge. I have the motor mount bolts out, and I could only find 2 bolts to the transmission. Should there be 4? I looked all over and I can not find the other 2 bolts. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Bottom bolt heads are inside bellhousing. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | I'm sorry, this is my first time working on a six. Can you access that by just crawling under the truck or do I have to remove something? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | if you have the metal flywheel inspection cover off you should be able to access the bolts. Take your time, get a good light and you'll be just fine. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,451 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,451 | if you have the metal flywheel inspection cover off you should be able to access the bolts. Take your time, get a good light and you'll be just fine. May need to dig around with a scraper to find the bolt heads!
BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Once you have the tin cover off that's under the flywheel the bolts will be exactly in line with the bottom transmission mounting ears; in fact you can see the ends of the bolts in the trans ears from the outside. There shouldn't be much scraping to do but the bolt heads are slightly recessed and take a 3/4" wrench. A wrench with a dog leg in it or a SHORT socket and breaker bar works better. There isn't room for a ratchet. When removing the tin cover the two hard to get to bolts next to the oil pan just need to be loosened as the holes are slotted. Many of the crossmembers have an access hole for a screwdriver to pass through for loosening the bolts but are often caked shut with crud.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | A sneaky trick we used to use was to find an old 3/4" socket and weld it to a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar about 18" long to access those lower transmission bolts. Just the right offset, and plenty of torque to tighten/loosen the bolts.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | Thanks everyone. I have those bolts off, and now the engine is separated from the transmission by about an inch or two, but now it is stuck again. What else needs to be removed? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 58 | I can wiggle the engine side to side and up and down, just not forward. | | |
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