The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Looking for some input on rear axel replacement.

I have a 1949 3100 that I am replacing the engine with a 283, attached to powerglide. So I need to replace the rear axel. My question is if you guys have found a easy replacement that is basically a bolt in replacement? Any input would be appreciated.

There are no "Bolt In" rear except what you have but S10 Blazer 4x4 rear end is the correct width, 2001 or 2002 up for disc brakes,

As said above anytime you are installing parts that were not available at the time of production, 1949 in this case, there are not going to be many bolt in options.

But before you start figuring out what parts to acquire, first you need to establish a goal. In other words, what is it do you plan to use this truck for? Highway cruiser? Boat puller? Show truck?

If you are new to the truck one thing I always recommend is to get it running and just drive it a while. Reason being is often what you THINK you want in your truck isn't what you wanted. I was in that situation when I started years ago.

I totally agree with Sweet, drive it a while before digging into it. Once you replace the engine, brakes are next on the list. The rears will come with the new axle, but the fronts will need changed out to match the bolt pattern of the rears, unless you want to carry two spare tires. Most replacement axles will need the spring perches changed out to the narrow 1 3/4" ones to match the springs. If your truck has 2" wide springs, then most you will have to do is relocate them. You will also have to mock up the axle to set the pinion angle once you cut off the spring perches.

My '37 truck has a '79 Firebird rear axle. It fit the width just fine and gear ratio options wide open. I chose a 3.08. In my case, the truck will never haul a heavy load so the axle weight will never be tested. If you plane to work your truck, check axles weight capacity before installing. The Blazer 4X4 should be about the same as the 3100, so it makes an excellent chose.

The power glide in my opinion is a very poor choice for a transmission. A turbo 350 is a direct replacement for the power glide. You gain a third gear and a lot more modern transmission. The power glide will need 3.23 to 3.55 gear ratio to get the truck moving at a decent rate, but then you are stuck with high highway rpm. The power glide will act like a T350 starting in second gear. Go T350 with a 3.08 or 3.23 gear and you will be happy. Tire size matters, so figure that in as well. 235/75R15 radial is 28" tall, thats about the average tire size. If you want overdrive, a 200R4 is made from a T350 and will also fit.

Joe

I am in the same "search" on my 48, but I fully expected a zero chance of any bolt in unless I pay one of the axle shops to make up a axle for me. They are out there I have found several but cost is not always agreeable.
Since I already have my front in disk brake conversion and still 8 lug, I want to keep 8 lug on the rear. It would be cheaper to switch to 5 or 6 lug front and back with better options but I wanted to keep tow/haul level up and option for stock wheels.

As for 8 lug choices not in any order just some of the better options, GM 14 bolt corporate axle, American AAM 14 bolt 11.5 axle.
With two outside possible options in the Dana 60 and a Eaton from a newer year PU.
The GM has a great following and easy to get one of the four options but to my checking so far the C&C version is closest to size, but is a dually axle that would result in issues if you want SRW but most common finding in drum brake. The AAM is a nice unit and can be found easy in disk brake set up and easy to modify.

All will as stated by Joe H, you will need to change spring perches at minimum if your keeping stock spring types (easy way). Or need to change spring frame towers for 2" if you want newer spring types (more options).
Axle perches change out is more a test of patience then any thing else (if you can weld), most is care in removing old and extra care in geometry/placement of new.

Going to a newer year Eaton sounds great getting newer (easier to find)axle parts but issue still exists on axle width.

keep posting what your going to do and how it progresses. I do the same.

You can keep the stock housing and convert it to open drive. You'll need to have the pivots welded up solid, or install rigid spring pads to the housing, then swap out the 3rd member out for one from a '55-'62 1/2 ton.

A Dana 60 from a Ford E250/350 or Dodge B2500/3500 van is going to be the easiest to find, and is the correct width. 3.55:1 is the common ratio in those.

I had not found any Dana 60 values that matched do you have them for the vehicles you list? WMS and flange to flange.

I know they have kits at a good price to convert to disk brakes.

I personally do not have one, but I was involved in a Dana 60 swap on a '49 1 ton. We just went to the local salvage yard and measured them. That was about 20 years ago, though, so I do not recall the exact measurements. The Van Dana 60 was the right width. It came out of an early '90s Dodge.

In searching the 60 in the 1990-2004 e250/350 is a offset rear axle with the pinion shifted to the passenger side.
Unfortunately not to common to other axle option in the E250/350s

I will search more I can pick up either van type for 300-500 dollars for whole van not running. But not local to me to measure and verify center pinon, actual 60 (not 61 or 70), actual width which varies. But can add it back in as another path to look at again.

Having the pinion a little off center isn't going to hurt a thing. The stock Eaton HO52 is even off center on the pinion.