We now have somne of the bone stock '51 Thistle Gray gunned ontothe firewall so's we could get the 350and700R4 back in. Just waiting for a more period looking cast Pertronix Ignitor dizzy and a front end bolt kit from Brothers before we can get it all bolted back together
Sir, Your 'Burb is coming along nicely. Please keep the pictures/progress reports flowing, and I'll try to do the same. Mine has just about all the outside metal that needed replacement done and now on to the limited mud, primer, and paint. Off, I now go to a second job to earn additional project $. Thanks Sssingo, V/R, Nick Cavallaro, Bel Air, MD
HELP NEEDED! On my clamshell lower door latches (at either side) I am trying to remove the central pin to repair a snapped of end. I have undone the screw but there is no sign of movement, how do I remove????
Is it just seized or is there something else I should be doing before removing it successfully???
Lots gone on since last post. The burb has got even more deconstructed as I am replacing the ply floor inside the cab. The old one was still good butI';ve come this far it seemed mad not to do it.
I've also been recreating a 1939 glass Trico washer bottle that I want to mount under the dash. These items are on ebay for anything from £680 so finding a suitable glass bottle of the same dimensions and making the accurate copy of the bracket and vacuum was the only option. original template nearly finished
Yes I'm afriad the car is going to be an ASBO lowscraper been putting the final touches to my scrape bar loaded with Titanium titanium bridge bar in situ
After much deliberation although my ply floor has survived 60+ years I thought now was to time to replace it before fully rebuilding the ride. I opted for a two layer replacement that I could hide some of the bolts that I didn't want to see within the two layers.
First layer is Birch ply which comes with twice as many ply layers as the original and much denser, with the decorative marine Iroko deck skin applied over the top.
Decided to mount the #accuair airride tank on the step notch cover with the valves and make something out of it just in case anything goes wrong. It was originally mounted underneath but even in my garage with trolley jacks and axle stands it was hard to get to let alone at the side of a raining motorway at night
My dad was a hydraulics engineer so feel like the pressure is on to create good bends from the 3/8 stainless as this stuff costs too much to waste any with mistakes.
Repairing seats that came with my burb and restoring ones I was ripped off shipping over I found a spring manufacturer that made the same spring in UK. Then blasted and re painted preior to upholstery
I may have just hit on a TOP HACK for installing #chevysuburban side windows...
CAPTIONS TO STEP-BY-STEP IMAGES
1:Starting at the front end of each window take note of where the two channel fixing holes sit together.
2:Even if you are refitting existing glass I think for the sake of a few£$€s it is worth transferring the shape onto some 5mm ply and using them as templates. Jim carter sell paper templates that are very accurate as long as you cut along the inside edge of their marks. I transferred the location of these two holes onto a 5mm glass template.
3:I trimmed the edge square as it was all kinds of wrong when I received it from parts supplier
4: Starting half way between the two marks grip your channel over the edge of your template
5: The channel will want to kink especially on the tight radius
STEP6: At first I spent hours removing then straightening the kinks with pliers
STEP7: BUT HERES THE HACK! because you are using a cheap bit of work to form around rather than glass you can tap the kinks flat with a hammer. For a clean channel cover with thin cloth first
STEP8: First corners done and holding shape
STEP9:Trial fit to between those first two mounting holes
STEP10: Now it gets trickier. You may need a few soft teeth clamps if working alone
