The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline U-Joint collar gaskets.

Just received my u-joint collar gaskets from classic parts for my '49 3100. These gaskets appear to be made by Fel-Pro. After installing these I am not happy with the results. These gaskets seem to curl where the 4 bolts attach the ball collar to the transmission. Is there an better quality ball collar gaskets/shims available on the market? It seems to me that a thin metal shim with a impregnated silicon seal would be much better. Does anyone know if this type of gasket/shim are available?

Assuming you have an inclosed u-joint/drive-shaft:

I've used Fel-Pro, Best Gasket, and the set sold by Classic Parts.

Those paper gaskets are adjustment shims (ball collar shims - left column).

". . a thin metal shim with a impregnated silicon seal would be much better . ." - however, you would not be able to adjust the ball joint collar seal.

Hi Tim,

Yes I do have an enclosed driveline. Do you suggest using a sealant on the shim gaskets to help prevent leaks? What ball collar shim gasket set did you like the best?

Thanks,

Tim

Tim,

I think the only "sealant" that I have used is bearing grease.

I think I recently used the Classic Parts set on my Hydra-Matic. No leaks yet, but I have not driven it.

It is a good idea to look at the four ears that the bolts go through on the retainer. They are often bent towards the transmission.
I always put the ears in my vice and straighten them, or even a little more back than straight, to give more clamping force against the gaskets/shims.

Fixit, if the gaskets are curling the bolt holes then they are punched a little off. I have punched a hole or two a tat bigger and the gaskets lay flat. May help.....may not.

Just a FYI
In above POST By tclederman.
The "Classic Parts" link shows the six hole shims/gaskets for Hydra-Matic & Powerglide automatic transmissions.
And also the four hole shims/gaskets for the manual shift transmissions.
Hydra-Matic illustration
Note: Manual shift transmission does not use a ball seat.
Tip: Check for two O-ring oil seal washers in Torque Tube Retainer I had one missing.

Nice photos, Jorb. Thanks.

Did the 4 3/4" H-M ball seat/plate seal come in the gasket/seals kit (I do not see it)? I think I had a rubber piece, but I now forget (I did this only a month ago). I think I remember that my rebuilder put that seal with the plate. Where does one get that seal?

Thanks

Thanks to Tim, AChipmunk and Pre '68 Dave for your advice on the u-joint collar gaskets. I had to use two gaskets to set the proper adjustment on the ball shaft. Straightened the ears on the ball collar and tightened, then loosened the 4 bolts and re torqued the 4 bolts to 10 ft. lbs. Now the gasket/shims are laying flat. Thank you. Now, I have another question. How tight should the ball retainer on the ball shaft be tightened? I do have both washers and the new rubber sleeve.

My answer will not be helpful:
- make sure the torque-tube surface is clean, shiney, smooth (the seal has to slide on that surface)
- I hand-tighten the retainer (firm enough to seal)
- Expect a small leak, especially after the seal wears-in/seats (and wears-down)
- Some people think the retainer rotates loose and leaks result - if you think that, try a little non-permanent thread sealant.

I too, finally tackled this project on my original 1946. Mine was "seeping" at the front of the ball collar, the rear of the collar and the end of the retainer.

After breaking the u-joint apart, I found that only one shim had been used at the front of the collar, the gasket at the rear of the collar was totally absent. In the retainer, I had some resemblance of an old gasket in between the two metal rings.

Using Best's kit 5151 (I am a big cheerleader of Best Gaskets), both the retainer and rear collar seals went in as planned. Both were coated with oil prior to installation which made them slip into place more easily that if they had been dry. We ended up using 2 shims between the collar and the transmission housing and we used a small mount of gasket sealer on those before bolting everything up.

In my case, the u-joint was in very good shape, but we did replace the bolts and lock tabs (cheap insurance). We added some gear oil through the speedometer housing hole to lube everything up before driving the first time after the repair.

I will also say that we polished and cleaned the ball, collar and inside of the retainer before reassembly.

From start to finish, 2 1/2 hour job. Everything went back together without a hitch. After finishing, we drove the truck for 25 miles. Once parked back in the garage, checked everything..."dry as a bone" in all three areas that previously had leaked.

Get and use the Best Gasket kit, take your time and clean/polish as you go. You will be very happy with the results.

Darling,

Excellent description and advice - all aspects of your post. Very nice.

I have used the Best Gasket set, and I agree it is the best.

Where do you live in NC? We are moving to Jarvisburg within a year.

fixit,
The test for proper tightness of the ball and collar takes place prior to installing the "cork" seal, as outlined in the Truck Shop Manual. You should be just barely able to move it with two hands. Once the "cork" seal is installed, you probably won't be able to move it by hand. Keep in mind that this ball does not move much in the collar once the truck is on the road. When it does move, it has the entire length of the torque tube as a lever to move it.
Carl

Tim
I beleive the only seal between the H-M ball seat/plate and tail housing.
Is the the 4 3/8" Rubber o-ring seal---- -Group# 5.565 I guess it is (4 3/8" I.D.)
Note:Power Glide Transmission - Rear Pump Section Shown, (PG ball housing same as H-M & manual shift trans.)
Pic 1 - Pic 2 Seal in groove.
This Pic 3 shows the back side of ball seat with 4 3/8" rubber o-ring.
For some reason there is also a paper shim/gasket on the back side.
My hunch is who ever put it there didn't know where to put it. I would ask John below if needed.
The above PG illustration does not show a paper shim/gasket on the back side of ball seat/plate.

When you order the U-Joint Ball Gaskets & Seals for the H-M or the PG.
The supplier includes the rubber seal for the ball seat.
Northwest Transmission Parts is where Gene told me who has the H-M, U-Joint Ball Gaskets & Seals
Ask for John.

(It seems I'm not getting email notifications on my post.
That is why is took so long for reply.
Anyone with same problem.)

Here is something to be warned about when using silicone on a H-M transmission shims/gaskets.

I forgot to include this link: PG rebuild---- Full THREAD
A Power Glide, since the Power Glide has a similar tail housing as the Hydra-Matic and uses the same u-joint, ball housing, ball seat and rear yoke.

Check out the front yoke bolt with the nail in it, it meters the tranny oil when it sprays out of the main output shaft to lubricate the u-joint.

This is a interesting observation under the picture with the bolt:
"It's common to see on "reworked" PG a lot of silicone sealant blocking this hole, totally or partially." (circled in pic)

He is talking about the tail housing oil return drain hole being plug with silicone, not good.
My ball housing seat was caked with silicon to keep it from dripping oil.
The Hydra-Matic tail housing has a different shape.
Pic 4, H-M oil return galley Hole.

Manual shift trans. lube funnels thru main output shaft bearings. Back and forth between ball housing and transmission case.

I received an article from a member that states if you replace the quad gasket that comes in the kits ( the one between the two metal rings)

With a national o ring #327

Your leak at that point will end

I have not tried this yet