Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | Here are two pictures of what appears to be the nuts and bolts broken off. Does anyone know how they go? See pictures below.
[URL=http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/cuz2424/media/20150706_202223_zpsvedtgwj6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag3/cuz2424/20150706_202223_zpsvedtgwj6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/cuz2424/media/20150706_202233_zpsjq6fh1an.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag3/cuz2424/20150706_202233_zpsjq6fh1an.jpg[/IMG][/URL] | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy jimbo 24, if you are talking about the two bolts at the outboard end of the leaf spring brackets which appear to have only nuts on them but no heads on the other end, then those are the lock bolts for the shackle/leaf spring pins. Those pins are only threaded on one end and have no heads, they interlock into milled slots in the spring pins, they themselves have a taper milled onto them, you tighten the nuts to lock the pins to the spring pins, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | thanks thats great, so they r ok | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Having stripped/broken some of those pins or bolts myself I will argue that they should be set with a hammer and punch and kept from falling out with the lock washer and nut, not pulled home with. Same goes for king pin lock bolts.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | they have been like that for a long time i guess. should i just leave them alone. i thought the bolts were broken off but they r the same on both sides. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Your call. If you are removing the spring pins then you need to first remove those lock bolts/pins. If you're not removing the spring pins you don't need to remove the lock bolts/pins. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 208 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 208 | I just finished up my rear leaf springs, here is what I used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111612932763?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
note the tapered set bolts 3B and Grigg spoke about. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | i think i will leave it alone. looks like it would snap on me. thanks for the help. now at least i know what they look like. i just thought they were busted bolts | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 | I just pulled mine apart with no issues. I'm glad I did, the bushings were split and the shackle pins were worn pretty bad.
Mark | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | mark now u got me thinking. do i have to block anything up or just take out the bolt and nut | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | You need to jack up the frame to take the pressure off of the springs. Use jack stands!
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 | Yes definitely lift it. I removed the torque tube first and thats when I found all the play in my shackles. The bushings were a bit of an effort to press out since they were so messed up.
Mark | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | don't want to sound dumb but what is torque tube | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | A torque-tube on GM trucks is an enclosed drive-shaft that has one enclosed u-joint, behind the transmission.
What year and size truck do you have?
You have a 1952 1-ton - you might not have an enclosed drive-shaft, or, you might have a partially enclosed drive-shaft, as used on a 3/4 ton.
I'll look that up. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | so we r talking about the drive shaft area | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | so we r talking about the drive shaft area I am. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | OP asked. Tim answered. No party foul. Carl wannabe moderator (not really, just playin).
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 363 | | | |
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