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#1112233 07/07/2015 3:02 AM
Joined: Jul 2013
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J
Shop Shark
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Here are two pictures of what appears to be the nuts and bolts broken off. Does anyone know how they go? See pictures below. [URL=http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/cuz2424/media/20150706_202223_zpsvedtgwj6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag3/cuz2424/20150706_202223_zpsvedtgwj6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/cuz2424/media/20150706_202233_zpsjq6fh1an.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag3/cuz2424/20150706_202233_zpsjq6fh1an.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Joined: Nov 2005
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3
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hy jimbo 24, if you are talking about the two bolts at the outboard end of the leaf spring brackets which appear to have only nuts on them but no heads on the other end, then those are the lock bolts for the shackle/leaf spring pins. Those pins are only threaded on one end and have no heads, they interlock into milled slots in the spring pins, they themselves have a taper milled onto them, you tighten the nuts to lock the pins to the spring pins, hope that helps.

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J
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thanks thats great, so they r ok

Joined: May 2005
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G
.
.
G Offline
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Having stripped/broken some of those pins or bolts myself I will argue that they should be set with a hammer and punch and kept from falling out with the lock washer and nut, not pulled home with. Same goes for king pin lock bolts.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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J
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they have been like that for a long time i guess. should i just leave them alone. i thought the bolts were broken off but they r the same on both sides.

Joined: May 2005
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G
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G Offline
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Your call.
If you are removing the spring pins then you need to first remove those lock bolts/pins.
If you're not removing the spring pins you don't need to remove the lock bolts/pins.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 208
B
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I just finished up my rear leaf springs, here is what I used

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111612932763?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

note the tapered set bolts 3B and Grigg spoke about.


1949-52 Chevy 3800 1-Ton Flatbed
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket
Joined: Jul 2013
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J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
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i think i will leave it alone. looks like it would snap on me. thanks for the help. now at least i know what they look like. i just thought they were busted bolts

Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 241
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I just pulled mine apart with no issues. I'm glad I did, the bushings were split and the shackle pins were worn pretty bad.

Mark


1952 GMC 9430 one ton pickup, a work in progress

1952 1-ton pictures on Photobucket
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J
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mark now u got me thinking. do i have to block anything up or just take out the bolt and nut

Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
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You need to jack up the frame to take the pressure off of the springs. Use jack stands!


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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J
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thanks carl

Joined: Dec 2011
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5
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Yes definitely lift it. I removed the torque tube first and thats when I found all the play in my shackles. The bushings were a bit of an effort to press out since they were so messed up.

Mark


1952 GMC 9430 one ton pickup, a work in progress

1952 1-ton pictures on Photobucket
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 363
J
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Shop Shark
J Offline
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Posts: 363
don't want to sound dumb but what is torque tube

Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
A torque-tube on GM trucks is an enclosed drive-shaft that has one enclosed u-joint, behind the transmission.

What year and size truck do you have?

You have a 1952 1-ton - you might not have an enclosed drive-shaft, or, you might have a partially enclosed drive-shaft, as used on a 3/4 ton.

I'll look that up.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
A 1952 1-ton looks like is has an fully open drive-shaft drive-line.

Someone will correct or confirm this.

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J
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so we r talking about the drive shaft area

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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Originally Posted by jimbo 24
so we r talking about the drive shaft area
I am.

Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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OP asked.
Tim answered.
No party foul.
Carl
wannabe moderator (not really, just playin).


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 363
J
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Shop Shark
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ok then, thanks guys


Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

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