The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop radiator question

These aftermarket alum radiator that are stock replacement (bolt in at least).... will they keep a mildly built 355 coo, with running an a/c.... will have an automatic behind it....

Don't know how hot and humid it gets in your area, what kind of traffic you plan on driving it in, what brand of radiator you're looking at, the thermostat and fan setup you're running, what year of truck you have, etc.

There are numerous factors, can you give us some more information please?

Another good question is how many core rows are in the replacement radiators.

....what kind of truck?? If the engine sits low in the engine compartment where the fan is more on the bottom of the radiator save yourself some grief and put an electric fan on the radiator that will cover the radiator and will pull at least 2200 CFM's. If you can run a standard fan do yourself a favor and put a fan shroud on it. You will not regret doing it now rather than later!
...just my OPINION from my experience.

EDIT: as for how many rows, it depends on the size of the "rows", how close together ect.
Reading this may help you some if you haven't investigated radiators.
http://www.usradiator.com/cores

Dillion radiator sells "direct bolt in's" for a lot of vehicles. Recently purchased one with the oil cooler in the bottom in case I ever need it, for $200 shipped to my door. I think Champion Cooling, or something like that, actually makes them. Shop around it the best advice.

The truck is a 47 (2nd series) that I am moving over to an s10 frame. As far as traffic, the only sitting in traffic would be trying to get into.show type of stuff. Heat and humidity.... July/Aug usually tops out around 100 humidity I really can't tell as I try not to say attention to the number.... looking at a 2 core....

Usual is still in the mock up stages, I am trying to decide if I want to stick with the stock style but the alum version or change things over to a cross flow (already have a 2 core that is about 31w20h).....

I remember as a kid ridding with dad in his big block powered 41 coupe he would always complain when we had to sit in traffic for extended time cuz it you start to warn up that was with out a/c..... I just don't really want to fight that when I get this one finished....

In my opinion a 2 row is just not enough cooling surface for a mild build V8. It may be overkill but I put a 4 row aluminum in my fairly stock '48 Burb w/350 V8. Close to the same price as a 2 row and I have the extra cooling I need. Heed the advice about the fan shroud. It does help.

The thinking that you need more than 2 cores is from the old copper-brass radiators. Most aluminum rads are 2 core, but 1" to 1-1/2" tubes, so they're much different than a typical 2-core. My rad in my '46 is a 2-core with 1-1/4" tubes, and it cools my 455 just fine.


Don't buy a rad until you get your truck mounted on the S-10 frame. Depending on where it ends up, the stock replacement rad may or may not fit. You'll be best with a downflow, not sure why you would want to change to a cross-flow.