The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starting an engine that's sat for 25+ years

I'm about ready to fire up my 55.1's 235 that's been sitting for over a quarter century and just want to make sure I haven't missed any steps. So far I have...

Drained the oil. (Oil looked awesome actually based on the age, almost no condensation whatsoever.) I replaced the oil and filter as well.

Pulled the plugs and sprayed PBlaster in the cylinders.

Pulled the cap and watched the rotor spin while I was turning the engine by the front fan. I made a mark on the distributor and the crank and after 1 rotation they were in the same spot.

While turning the engine I noticed the belt was slipping due to cracks and wear so I replaced it with a new one.

There was no liquid in the radiator to drain but I filled it and noted the level. Tonight I will inspect, hoping to not find a 1955.1's radiator worth of water on my garage floor.

I will be using a 12v battery as I don't have a 6v laying around. I'll keep lights/accessories off the entire time.

I also pulled the valve cover off and poured a bit of oil all over the top before I turned the engine.

I need to pull the carb tonight and clean out anything that might be in there, at first inspection things looked good. The oil bath filter has been covering it, as well as the hunk of 50's steel that is the hood.

The only other thing I can think of that I need to do, and please tell me if I'm missing something or you would suggest something more, is to rig a fuel line into a gas can rather than pulling from the tank. I'm not quite sure how to do this though. Do I buy new fuel line and just plumb it to fit? Do I use the existing line somehow?

I will NOT be using ether or any other starting fluids.

I'm not looking to spend tons of money just to get it to fire up quite yet as I'm debating the original or resto mod options. I just want to see how/if this thing runs.

Any thoughts or advice?

Sounds like you're almost there Dan.
I generally do what you've done. When you pull your carb, I'd be surprised if it's to your liking.

Before connecting fuel to it, I like to see if it will fire by pouring a bit of fuel down the carb. If it does, you will also get the juices flowing through the engine a bit before running it.

If everything sounds good, you can connect a rubber fuel line to the fuel pump and run fuel from a little gas tank (like a one gallon plastic tank). That will allow you to run your engine and see what you need to do next. (Assuming your pump and carb are up to it.)

I'm sure others will provide other ideas. Good luck!

Hi Dan,

I am also close to starting an old Stovebolt. Mine has been sitting since '69! :o
I had not thought about turning the motor to watch the rotor turn once. Thanks for the idea, I will do that.

The only additional thing I will do that you have not mentioned is to verify the oil pump and passages. I have the valve cover off and will pull the distributor and run the oil pump (with a drill) and verify oil at the rocker arm assembly.

Good luck and keep us posted!

PB Blaster is too thin, so I'd squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder & let it sit a couple of days. A small bottle is cheap. Even regular 30 weight would probably work. I'd really caution against using a 12 volt battery. It will heat things up real quick like & has the potential to fry your instruments & the old original wiring. You don't want to see smoke! With regard to the external fuel supply, just cut a piece of gasoline tubing 2-3 ft long, disconnect the steel fuel line to the carb then connect the new rubber line to it. Other end goes to the bottom of a clean plastic gas can or other suitable container. If there is an inline fuel filter in place then disconnect there, replace with a new filter then connect your new rubber hose to the inline filter nipple. Don't forget to pour a bit of gas directly in the carb to prime it. I'd turn the engine over a bit with the key in the OFF position first just to get the fluids moving, then I'd turn the key to the ON position & crank with a full choke on. And crank for short periods of time & not in long continuous cycles. Things like your wiring & starter motor will heat up quickly if you're not careful. Everything else you've already done sounds good.
Good luck!

I like kerosene or diesel (about 1/4-1/2 cup) in cylinders.
After setting in a day then a nice slow and easy hand turn of engine 2-3 times (covers off to see the rockers) around to make sure all is moving and no stops. Hand first time, no starter to slam things together.
Just few weeks back I did a 25 year frozen 216 that did not turn at all. After setting a few days with the diesel. I made it about 3/4 around before it stopped hard forward. It backs up about 3/4 and stops that way also. To bad it has a bad part in it some where.

As stated the drill to pump oil before starter cranking is great.
And as stated the use of a small spot of gas to see if it fires (before rebuilding carb) is the right step in the process.

Last I add a cup of mothers milk (cutting fluid) into the water pump/radiator before first start up.

Wisc. Gentleman might want to see if all valves move, otherwise a broken rocker might result.

I normally pray for a bit before I fire an engine like this up. At least it makes me feel better.
Jon

4Dantheman, how are things coming along for you? Curious minds want to know.


8x4600..... have a 281 that was stuck. Soaked it for about 3 weeks using the ATF/Diesel mixture then marvel. Oops, all this was after 3-4 day soak of Kroil.

Like you, I did get the engine to turn but only about 1/3 turn then dead stop....back the other way, dead stop. Pulled head, pulled lifters and still the same thing.
Pulled pan and #2 rod bearing was uh, well, trash. Hope you don't have the same problem with a rod bearing. After I pulled the cap the engine turned fine. What a learning experience.
Still having fun though and engine is ready to go back in "tinkerbell".

I have a pretty good success rate with this.. which is pure luck really.. by soaking the cylinders as previously stated and doing all of the things you are doing. These engines are very resilient. But I think these days, just to be safe, I would pull the side cover and make sure that as the motor turns, the push rods also do. Why the side cover when you can see it at the top? Because you can see if the rods are straight and not obviously bent, or bending when you rotate the motor.

Later you will want to put a garden hose to the engine blocks water jacket to the drain cock fitting on the drivers side rear of the block. Lots of times that is all stopped up. If it is, your engine will not cool properly. Whatever you do have fun!
You will find a rebuild document below. Maybe there is something there that will help you decide how far to take this!

http://devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235

I use a 3 gallon plastic outboard motor gas tank. It has a nifty priming bulb and a hose.

That is an UPTOWN setup you got there Carl! I got a 1 gal lawn mower tank and a hose.

WANTED: GOOD WOMAN WITH A GOOD BOAT. PLEASE SEND PICTURE OF BOAT.

You needta use whatchya got a layin round.
Man rule #1: Never throw anything away.

Yup. That's true Brotha from another Mutha! True Dat!

Dan, these old engines want to run..they just need a little help. Gotta have Spark, Fuel, Compression to run. Let us know how you make out with phase 1. Don't give up if she doesn't start. Check compression, dry and wet - lots of old post here that detail that process. Spark and fuel are easy to check, put a little fuel in the carb to prime. If spark is there but weak, might want to get a new coil, points, condenser and replace the plugs. Worth the investment if you have good compression, need to regroup if not. Assuming timing is close, she will run. Pretty exciting to see one of these old girls come to life after 25 years ! Good luck.

Gotta have fire. I think if you don't replace the points you'd be well served to at least file them and maybe wipe the contacts with some lacquer thinner. While you're at it, I think a set of plug wires, cap and condenser are in order. Good luck.

Best have a fire extinguisher on ready standby too. Likely won't need it, but just in case? Don't ask how I know. Sparky the '46 got its name for a reason...

Here is a tech tip we did from one Homecoming. I am not sure if you covered all the things in the tip ... or there may be some things this "collective" can add to the tip.

Someone can let me know ??

Peggy

That is an excellent writeup! Covers everything I can think of.
Stuff like this is why we come here.

Deve,

Well, like I said, if there is more to add ... to any of the Tech Tips ... we like to think of them as "living documents" and always ready for some additional input, if it is there.

Someday (????????????), I'd like to take the old old Tech Tips we have and get them updated. I think the most we ever did was three: bringing the truck out of winter hibernation, getting ready for winter storage, and the very interest one: rod or restore!!

Peg

My thought on how to update them is put them in a discussion and let the guys here give input on each one separately. You will get some of the usual bloviators, myself included, but some of the more timid might share too. Maybe a complete new forum section with the topics being the link to the writeups? No new topics would be allowed there to keep things manageable, just what you put there for everyone to comment on. Then, assign someone to compile the high points of the conversation if they are valid.

Yea, I was thinking of posting it in the forum for the input. Had a few general ideas about how to go about it. I better wait until I get a decent window of time to start it and be able to follow thru and tweak.

Thanks,
Peg

Good job Peggy. Lot of good info in that article.