I picked up some spare junk clusters for rebuild and learning. I did a lot of digging here on this site and found two very well written tech articles on the subject, thanks OPs
http://stovebolt.com/techtips/gauges/speedometer/index.htmlhttp://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/odometer/index.htmlI am new to this so I decided to share some stumbling points that I encountered in the process. I will add pictures once my rebuild is complete. I am waiting on stickers for my odometer.
Speedometer Needle Removal:
1)Remove the two screws holding the black bezel -This allows to lift up the bezel and expose the needle joint
2)Use a very sharp non-magnetic electronic soldering pick to pop the needle from its post (try to be gentle)
3)You can use the cross brace on top of the speedometer assembly as a leverage point since you moved the bezel out of the way
4)Since you're splitting from the shaft you don't risk breaking the needle from its mount
5)Remove the bezel, replace the screws for safe keeping
Free Stuck Odometer Numerals:
1)Older odometer stakes are ferrous and they rust if you have one of these be extra careful since cleaning too well will shrink the diameter of the stake
2)Remove brass retaining clip, push the assembly in the opposite direction of the gear side then lift out
3)Use needle nose pliers to gently grip and work the brass retaining ring free
4)Gently pull the number wheels out one at a time
5)Clean aluminum parts with a degreaser
6)Clean the Bakelite numerals with water and soap
7)Clean the copper odometer post with brake cleaner
Cleaning Numeral Sticker:
1)Soak in CLR for a minute or so *if the numerals are not flaking, this will really clean them up
2)Remove and rinse well in water
OR
If they are not flaking wipe down with non-alcohol baby wipes
Removing Numeral Sticker:
1)Soak in water and soap
2)Scrub really well
3)Use a very sharp razor to gently scrape the faded number sticker away
Replacing Numeral Stickers:
1)Clean the wheels with some alcohol to ensure no dirt or grease
2)Two teeth inside the wheel should be on the left side of the numbers
3)Those two tabs should be between the bottom of "6" and the top of "7"
Reassemble Odometer Numerals:
1)Spray some white lithium grease on all the mating surfaces as you assemble
2)Work from right to left tenths to ten thousands
3)Tenths is the only wheel that fits into the Aluminum gear
4)The multiple teeth side of the wheel faces the higher number wheel, the two teeth side faces the lower number
5)In between each wheel should be an aluminum divider and a gear
6)The wheels roll up away from you, the gear in the aluminum divider should be placed on the top side (putting them on the bottom will roll numbers at 4)
7)Clock the divider teeth at 5 the top one should be even with the top of the number (that way to get 0's)
8)The double aluminum gear side should face the wheel with two gear teeth only, the single aluminum gear side should face the wheel multiple gear teeth
9)Reinstall retaining ring ensuring tight fit
Removing The Brass Oiler Cap:
1)Make a small hole with a non magnetic electronic soldering pick (the small pointed 90 degree style)
2)Use the pic to work the cap free
3)Remove the oiling material and save for later
4)Use the pick to straighten out the brass and cover up the hole - I used a screw large enough to fit inside the whole cup and pounded the material flat
5)Use a soldering iron and some solder to seal up the hole
Removing The Speedometer Assembly Cup:
1)Remove two screws with a non magnetic screw driver
2)Turn assembly upside down
3)Put some tape to hold the copper cup in the housing
4)The tab on the copper cup should be on the same side as the odo numbers
Saving The Grease:
1)Use a small plastic knife or scrapper to gather up all the old grease in the housing
2)Save the grease on some wax paper so you can re-apply the grease around the stem of the spinning assemblies when your cleaning and oiling is completed
Freeing A Stuck Spinning Assembly:
1)The speedometer housing is Led do not submerge in vinegar if it is stuck (If you do it will bubble, the vinegar becomes toxic as a result of the reaction)
2)Soak in PBBlaster or Kroil daily, try to avoid contact with the plastic worm gear (I coated mine with petroleum jelly to protect it)
3)Tap the back brass part and try to rock it gently, if it wont move soak daily and try again (I use the oiling port for this)
These are the steps that worked for me, if this is something folks are interested in I can expand on my whole process.
