The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Revove top cowl vent gasket

My '53 Chevy 3600 was painted when I got it. They had installed a hard rubber top cowl vent gasket that is smooth on top. My top Cowl vent does not seal on this and therefore leaks water. I purchased a new gasket from Classic Parts of America and it has a raised rib that they say should be facing up. My dilemma is how to remove the existing gasket. It is really stuck down, presumably done with Weather Strip Sealant. What is the best way to get it loose? Heat? Some solvent? If you have experience, please let me know.
Thanks
John

Scrape the old one out using maybe a can/bottle opener like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-46445-Bottle-Opener/dp/B000KKMSZ0

To do that I will just have to cut it and pry a screw driver under it through the cut and then try to scrape. Will heat soften the adhesive?

They can be a bear. You might be able to dribble 3M adhesive remover/solvent to loosen it up. Use painter's tape to protect your paint.
Carl

Soak it with kerosene.....

I've used WD-40 to dissolve some types of glue-labels on bottles and such. Not sure if it would work on this stuff or not.

How long to soak in kerosene?
John

I let it soak overnight and then it came loose down to a thin small layer stuck to the metal. Then I used a soaking rag and kept rubbing it as it "flaked" off. Once clean I washed and wiped with a final wipe with paint thinner then alcohol. My arm still hurts but it worked for me.

I'd try fingernail polish remover. It'll do a better job on plastics, rubber, most glues than kerosene.

Also a paint remover that has methylene chloride and/or toluene in it would be good. Use with plenty of ventilation. And like said, protect your paint.

I used a syringe to place a small amount of kerosene along both the inner and outer edges of the old rubber gasket and let it sit overnight as Achipmonk suggested. I eased a flat screwdriver under one inside edge and pried it up. Once started, it pealed right up. No problem. I cleaned it by scraping the groove with a flat screwdriver then 4 or 5 good rubs with mineral spirits, changing paper each time then several hard wipes with alcohol. Finally cleaned with shop vac.
Now I will see if the new gasket with the outside raised rib from Classic Parts of America will keep the water out.
Thanks for the advice.
John

I installed the new gasket and adjusted per the book and It still leaks like a sieve. Ugh! It comes in under the back center of the top cowl vent. I just assume that when body work was done that this area is a little low compared to the front and two sides. I just will not plan to drive in the rain and when I wash it, I'll put a towel over the cowl vent and minimize the spray there. That is life.
John

How about using a 2nd gasket? Would that be too thick? Or make a thinner 2nd gasket out of some white, closed cell polyethylene sheet like you find protecting something in shipping.

I tested the seal with a 3/4" strip of paper to see exactly where the seal was weak. Once I found the area (about 2" where the paper was not held fast) I removed the cowl vent cover and placed 3 strips of PVC electrical tape over the top of the gasket. I reinstalled the cowl vent cover and adjusted and retested with the paper and was pretty satisfied that it was now a good snug fit at the old low point. I then poured water over it and it held perfectly.
If at some point the tape fails, I will remove it and apply a thin layer of 100% silicone calk smoothed out to a uniform thickness in the "low" area and let it completely cure for several days before lowering the lid.
John