The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Replacing cab mount rubbers

A similar topic currently running in the engine department made me question that maybe I need to replace me Cab mount rubber for both Clutch and brake pedal shafts going through the toe plate rub the right side of the openings.

Look in archieves but couldn't find anything about how to replace them. Are these rubbers located at where the cab mounting bolts mount to the frame? How many are there and how difficult to replace?

If having to raise the cab is a requirement then I guess one needs to think about all the heaving items resting on or in the cab which will contribute towards the over all weight. Boy the more I think about all the different item holding the cab down the more my head starts to spin....

On my 53 the front cab bolts have a 1/4"x2x2 rubber pad that mounts between the cab and frame. The rear cab mounts are shackles. I don't think replacing the rubber is going to solve your problem, you might try loosing the front cab to frame bolts and see if the cab will shift over a little. Also, it wouldn't hurt to replace the clutch and brake felt seals where they go through the toe plate.

if its a case of needing to adjust the cab alittle due to the compression of the pads you have I've always used and old fire hose cut up into squares. Most fire depts has some old hose laying around and will give it away...or maybe you know some one who can get it? it has the cloth type outer shell but a very durable rubber inner shell that makes real good body to frame cushions or anywhere you don't want metal to metal. Use one layer or several. Just an idea

Craig - it's a snap to replace the one rubber part at each corner - just need to create a minimal amount of extra space to slip the old ones out and new in - all the attached stuff won't hold it back enuff to be a problem - can almost use a long prybar against the frame [suitably padded w/ wood blocks] - loosen all 4 bolts, remove 1, pry up that corner, replace rubber, slip that bolt back in, go to next

Bill

Today, I looked at the front cab spacers on my truck. Right side seems to have a spacer around 1/4" in thickness. Drivers side???? Only a piece of sheetmetal maybe 1/16" thick, loosely fit. No wonder the clutch pedal shaft, brake pedal shaft and emergency brake pedal shaft all rub towards the passenger side.

What is the correct thickness for this rubber spacer?

Mine are about 1/4" thick.

squeeze,
4 bolts? I thought there were just one in each forward corner and a shackle set up in each rear corner. Some where I read on the bolt that there is a 5th mounting area for the cab? If so where is it not that I will even touch it at this point.

Looking at the front mounting bolts, it looks much easier to simply cut them out than to try and unloosen them. Are these bolts readily available or can I get something similar at my local Home Depot?

The assembly manual says that the clearance between the frame and bottom of cab panel at the front corners should be 1.83" (+.06/-.00). Why don't all of us stop what were doing and go measure our trucks and report back. Nothing else to do, is there?

Mounting points changed several times during the years. I believe I have seen tech articles on the differences. Also, I believe in the Chevy Duty catalog they have the spacers and I thought even the bolts. I have been planning to fix mine which is leaning to the left.

I also think I saw the location of my mounts mentioned in my shop manual.

Yes,
My assembly manual talks about the 2 in front and the 2 shackle setups in the rear. Our main sponsor AC has a complete front and rear kit for around $18. I might be contacting them shortly. After I get my truck up and running (hopefully this next weekend), I'll drive it for a couple weeks and then turn it around, back up into the garage so I can start the front end swap, at which point I will consider replacing these pads, etc.

Looking forward to taking a break, so is my family

Well I measured the space between the frame and bottom side of the cab. Did you guys???
Left side 1.40" -avg
Right side 1.81"-avg

So we are talking around .400" difference. Yes another project. Job security.

Ad are the pads you got pretty soft? Just got a cab mounting kit from a supplier which has 1/4 x 2" x 2" pads. They look nice but seem way too soft to me to do the job long term. I have some extra rubber material with casing material impregnated inside which is a lot more firmer that a fellow bolter gave me so I might try it instead. Where does the metal square spacer to in reference to the rubber spacer?

cmayna, mine are very firm, the rubber was on the frame, the spacer and then the cab.

If I get my truck up and running early this weekend, I'll attempt to replace at least the front rubber, especially the driver's side.

Why not just remove the the pedal rods to replace the felts craig ?
If you are goin' to replace the cab mount rubbers make sure you keep track of the shims you remove. It is tough to get a cab lined up once it is removed from the frame [ kinda like aligning a hood ].

Its nice to see that Ron is talkin' trucks.

Ilooked at the pads on my truck the other day and the thickness of the pad is abought the same as belts used on a round bale hay bailer belt.Its heavy duty material.I also used it for the shims under the radiator suport.Might be a good option?

I like to use ore & slag conveyer belt rubber for these applications.
We call it "flashing belt" around here. I get it at the local copper mines when they sell their surplus .

Today, I replaced both front cab rubber spacers. Now my clutch pedal shaft no longer rubs against the cab and sqeaks.

I've heard of people using hockey pucks with holes drilled in them for the box jack up kits. - Scott

Use pieces cut from old bias ply tire sidewalls.

Whitelightening,
That's what I used.