| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (Gray_Ghost),
79
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,024 Posts1,055,395 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 | I have the 283 out of my suburban installing Scott Danforths crossmember/S10 IFS. I have pulled the distributor to prevent damaging it.I would like to re-install it before putting the engine back in the truck. I think I know how to do this but I need confirmation. do I use the mark on the balancer for #1 compression, point the rotor to #1 and install the dist? Or have I missed a step or 2? Thanks or any help.Also how does the oil pump fit into the equation?
Weeds | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | On a good clean engine you can use the "finger" check for compression. Pull the #1 plug. Stick a finger into the hole. Turn the engine. When the finger is pushed out, that is compression. The timing mark will come around 2 times for each compression stroke. 1 time with the exhaust valve open, and 1 time with both valves closed. Set the points to just open and it should start. A common screwdriver can be used to index the oil pump. The distributor will rotate some as the gear meets the cam. So set the oil pump a little ahead and the distributor should go in easy.
Steve H
| | |
|
|
| |
