The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Copper-nickel brake lines & galvanic corrosion, anyone?

I've made the difficult decision (for me) to use the more modern copper-nickle brake lines on our 1950 fire truck restoration, due to their superior corrosion resistance and forming characteristics.

However, I'm wondering if anyone is concerned with galvanic corrosion between the copper-nickel brake lines & the steel clips used to hold them?

I'm no chemist or engineer, but it seems to raise an issue that didn't exist with steel lines and steel clips.

Much ado about nothing?

-Mike Stemmler

There is no problem with regular steel and Cu-Ni.

The problem comes between Stainless, aluminum and brass.

I always thought copper-nickle was best used for fuel line application, or anything with a "single flare to brass." I could be wrong but my guess is that copper would fatigue more under brake line pressure and higher torqued connections with steel.

The Ni-cop lines are made for brake systems and have been used in northern Europe for decades to prevent corrosion. Its just starting to be the line to use here due to the extra cost. It flares better, easier to form and while it cost s little more you have much less waste while flaring. I use it on ever build I do but I don't mix it with systems that also have steel.

Calling it "copper-nickel" might be a little misleading. The alloy used is actually copper-nickel-iron. It takes double flares just fine, as Dave states, much easier than paint steel.

..and if your worried about the clips that hold the lines use the "coated" clips. You know, the ones with the rubber on them.

I've been using Kunifer brake line here for more years than I care to remember.
In fact my truck is the first vehicle i've ever owned that actually used steel.
I used a 'universal' steel brake line kit sourced from TCI in the USA for simplicity,it came with all the brass fittings,brake light switch and aluminium chassis clips.

I actually ran out of steel line and used Cu for the rest and have had no corrosion issues in any form despite the fact the truck is driven in all weathers including salted winter roads.

I just remembered that I have a whole role of Cu line. Maybe I should use some on the truck.

cmayna, I did mine with the NiCop. I too had a roll in the garage. It's still there - somewhere! Couldn't find it so bought another. There is just too much stuff in my tiny garage with the truck blown apart for paint and improvements to find it.

Dennis

So it sounds like I can find better things to worry about than corrosion with the clips or fittings.

Or, put another way, when THAT is the biggest problem I have with this truck, I will be in a very good spot!

Thanks for the input. FWIW, the lines have been very easy to work with so far, and look good. My OCD kicks in about the straight pieces not being totally "straight" like fresh lengths of steel, but I think I can deal with it!

-Michael

There's a sneaky little trick to straighten rolled-up tubing. Clamp one end of the roll in a vise, roll it out, and use a pair of vise grips, a come-along, and something rigid like the bumper of a car to put just a little stretch on the line. Don't overdo it, as you'll reduce the diameter of the line if you go too far, but it comes out arrow-straight with just an inch or two of stretch over the length of a 50-foot roll! Cut, bend, and flare the straightened line as required!
Jerry

Thanks, Jerry! That's exactly what my mechanic did - I'd not seen that trick. Works well! Got the line as straight as the original - including a bend in the original that had no purpose, far as we can tell. Oh well - flaws and all!

-Michael