Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,018 Posts1,055,259 Members48,417 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 279 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 279 | Bought a rebuild kit for my steering gear. '53 Chev 3/4 ton with 4-speed manual transmission and 235 engine. Read through the shop manual instructions and the small booklet that came with the kit, but it doesn't explain the insertion of the steel bearings very well. It talks about 2 circuits. Before I get into pulling the column, does anyone have photos they can share or recommendations? The gear leaks bad and I've tried the heavier lube. My guess is the seals or gaskets are shot. Might as well do a complete rebuild since I have to take it all apart anyway. Suggestions welcome. I searched this site, but didn't find a previous post dealing with the steel bearing replacements or photos. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | I think you may be talking about the two circuits for the balls pictures here. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/123312827Click thru the pictures to get an idea of what you're in for. Be prepared to sleeve the shaft where the seal rides with a Speedi Sleeve. They are almost always worn there and simply replacing the seal won't stop the leak unless it has a smooth surface to work against. Also, the bushing may need to be reworked depending on where you get your kit from. The
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,189 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,189 | http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/52mts20/5220mts01.htmThis is the same booklet, just different form. Getting all the bearings down the tubes is not that hard, use plenty of light grease to keep them from rolling out the other side and keep the balls in two equal piles so you know how many go in each hole. Mark the ball nut (large square piece) before slipping it off the steering shaft if you are unsure which way it goes back on. Places to look for wear, the lower bearing race, (worm bearing adjuster) the steering shaft spiral cut ball races the sector shaft teeth and the ball nut teeth, right in the center Do you have your grease picked out? John Deere corn head grease is cheap and easy to get. It makes good grease to use when assembling the box. One tube is enough to fill the box, and with the side cover off, it pretty easy to fill. Joe | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Just remember, the column is one piece with the steering box. It all comes out of the truck in one big part. So be prepared to take some time and remove the steering wheel. That will not fit through the hole in the firewall. It just won't.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | My posting is not a booklet, it is the companion filmstrip with much more picture clarity than any of the booklet versions which is precisely why I posted it. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | Rick, Don't be scared. It will all make sense once you take it apart. Make sure to look close at the ball guide halves. The ends need to be undamaged to prevent binding. I had one that was out of whack, but I was able to massage it back into shape. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 279 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 279 | You've all been very helpful. Many thanks for the information and the tips. | | |
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