The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 207 to 235 conversion

Hi-
I have a 35 master Sedan that I have decided to convert to a full oil 235. I have 2 207 engines, both with head problems and too costly to fix, unless some one has a good head that needs no work cheap. The question so far is the clutch setup. I have heard that you can use your old bell housing, flywheel etc.. But the flywheels I have don't match bolt pattern for the newer crank in the 235. Is there any flywheel setup that solves this problem? I would like to use my original transmission. My concern is that a different bellhousing and clutch setup for a 235 car or truck will not match my transmission.

Thanks,

Brent

The swap can be done:
1. The 235 is about a 1 1/2" shorter than the 207 so you will need to make a plate to move the front mount back.
2. The rear of the 235 has a different bolt pattern so you will need a bell housing from a 37 to 47 truck which will fit the 235 engine and the 35 trans. and will also accept the 35 mounts.
3. You will need a flywheel from a 42 to 54 pass. or truck if you use a 6 volt starter, or 55 to 62 if you use a 12 volt starter(55 to 59 truck use foot start). Use clutch parts including clutch fork from a 1938 or later( they will need to match flywheel clutch size).
4. The exhaust is center dump on a 235 and rear dump on a 206 but that should be an easy fix.
5. You will need a starter from a 38 to 54 if you use a 6 volt flywheel or 55 to 59 truck if you want 12 volts and foot start.
6.You will also need the front bearing retainer from a 38-47 truck 4 speed to accept the later throw out bearing.
7.THIS ONLY WORKS IF IT IS A "MASTER". If not all bets are off.

Thanks, The car is a master.

I will have to do some thinking if I can even get these parts somewhat cheap. I did measure the engines from the rear of the block to the front of the fan blade for fit, and with the short waterpump on the 235 they seemed to be the same length. when I measured it with the long pump it the 235 was about an inch longer. I did not measure the mount differences though. I heared you can use the front mount plate off your original engine to accomodate the different mounting situations?

Thanks for any and all advice.. Brent

The front plate off the 207 is completely different and will not fit the 235.

Well, since the last time I wrote I found out some stuff.
1: There is 2 different water pumps for the 235. 53 to 54 has an old style pump that will not require a special short pump like the 55->62 engines.
2: Like was mentioned, There is a difference in clutch assemblies between ~47 and 49. I'm unsure of the break line on the difference. One has the three finger clutch with the non bearing throwout. The newer 49 and above has multi finger thowout and bearing.

I did aquire a 1941 chevy truck that has already gone through a conversion to a 1954 235 engine. I think I'm set for the mating of my old trans. I just need to find out if the 235 is a runner.

If there are any tips on the front engine mount let me know. I also noticed that I will probably need to drill and tap the 41 truck bell housing to accomodate the mounting position in the 1935.

Well, got the engine out of the donor truck. It is a 1953 235 engine. I has the multi finger pressure plate and throwout bearing. I looked at my old trans and there was not a sleeve for the throwout on the front input trans bearing retainer. Started looking and the bearing retainer off of the truck trans bolted right on to my stock trans from the car. That was way cool,
My trans slipped right into the 235 bell housing and clutch assembly. Not even different splines. The bell housing also has the correct mounting points for the cross memeber. Instead of further back on the bell housing my cross member is between the bell housing and oil pan. the only thing left to do is create a mount for the front. Like Dave said there is ~ 1 inch in length difference between a 235 and 207. The 207 is longer. I was dreading finding some incurable issue that I would need to look for some special part. Suprisingly it has been simple. I have not dry fit the engine yet, but don't percieve any problems.

Just an update, Hope this is useful to someone.

Hello-

Well, it has been awhile so here is another update. For the inexpierenced 235 builder, which I am. I have found out the the 53,54 235 full oil engines are more expensive to rebuild. For starts, main bearings are twice the price of the 55-62 engines. Oil pumps are different and more expensive. Original Milk can shaped solid lifters are through the roof, but the same as the 55-62 235's.

I was able to find the bearings, gasket kit and rings at advanced auto parts. You would need someone willing to look through books to find them. I ended getting gaskets, mains, connecting rod, cam bearings and rings for 260 bucks. I think they had them up to 40 over on bearings and rings. I ended up being 30 bore, mains, and connecting rod
bearings.

I want to put in a m4f howards cam by Patrick's but the lifters, different pushrods and cam really add up. I was thinking on the new cam and using the old lifters. they are in good shape.
The lift is moderate on the howards cam and I don't need special valve springs for binding issues.

Any reason not to?

Thanks,

Brent

And you thought it was too expensive to rebiuld your 1935 motor. Now what do you think?

Well,

I would of been the same price to have the head reworked on the 207 as I does rebuilding the 235.

The 207 is prone to head cracks and I had no clue what the lower end was like. It turned over freely and the bores seemed OK but you never know

I know now what I have with the 235. I'm hoping it will be more dependable and hopefully I can get a couple more miles per hour with the higher rpm's

a word of advice, if you get a new cam always get new lifters the old lifters will wear out the new cam vary qwickly

Well, I have no real update on this, other than the 235 is built and now working on some of the details, rebuilding starter, generator etc. I still have not decided if I'm going 12 volt or not. I have a 12 volt generator but undecided.

Here is some pictures of the new 35, the 35 I never finished or started and some pics of my 37.

The black 35 was sitting in a garage since 1968 in Texas. Those are the pictures I bought the car by. Two dents smaller than a quarter, wood is great and no rust other than surface.

The 37 was my Great Uncles here in Colorado. I'm the second owner 63k actual miles. I have put on 12k of them since I got it running.

I will take some more pictures soon of the projects.

Brent

http://community.webshots.com/user/brents37

Hi-
Well it has been alot longer than what I expected on getting this engine in.. BUT it is in now, and boy have I learned alot.

1. The first was I was told the 235 is one inch shorter than the 207. That is true but I did not know where. It is on the back end of the engine block where the bellhousing connects. This creates a very tight engine to firewall clearance.
I might need to grind alittle of the unused head casting on the rear corner for better clearance.

2. The bolted in cross member between the bellhousing and engine will not fit. I needed to cut out the center section of this due to the oil pan. I did keep the mounts, along with the trans mount and the front mounts it is attached in 5 places.

3. I needed to create extensions for the front mounts. These work but I have not tried the setup with the generator and belt. I think it might rub the belt. If so I will need to convert to a truck front mount.

4. The tie rod rubs on the oil pan. I will need to bend it to get it to fit. kinda like this --____--
to clear.

I thought the most difficult part would be mating the Masters 3spd to the new 54 bellhousing/clutch setup. That proved to be the easiest thing so far.

So, really the only things I will not be able to go back stock is the cross member and bending the tie rod.

I have taken some pics if your intrested.

Brent