The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Removing a grain body

Hi, how feasible is removing the grain body from one truck and putting it on another?

As long as the two trucks have the same frame width it should be very straight forward...disconnect, lift, roll truck one out, relocate any brackets from truck one to truck two, roll truck two in, lower and re-connect.

Mike B

Also, remember that many beds/bodies have cutouts in crossmembers or frames for the rear wheels. Sort of like wheel wells. If the two trucks have different wheelbases, the rear wheels may contact the bed or at least reduce the amount the amount the springs can deflect before something touches.

Kent

Chevy didn't sell trucks with lift bodies from the factory back then. That's good news because the makers of the lifts made universal packages that easy for the dealers to install.
Make sure the chassis width is the same and the chassis length, cab to end of frame is the same (or close).
The lift frame is held on by 8 or 12 bolts, 6 or 8 at the rear hinge and 2-4 at the front.
Remove the bolts, unhook the control linkage to the cab, unhook the PTO shaft and jack it up.
Swap trucks, drill the holes and make the connections.
Be sure to use grade 8 bolts (I prefer fine thread).

Also, make sure to NOT drill mounting holes for the bed in the frame flanges, only use the web. Many use long U-bolts over the whole frame to hold.

If you use U-Bolts, stand an oak 2x4 up inside the frame channel. Those old frames are pretty soft and a U-Bolt will come loose in a hurry without the 2x4 to brace it. We even mounted 5th wheels with U-Bolts in the 50's and 60's.

I remember almost all flatbed being held on by U bolts, but I can't remember seeing any dump bodies that were.
How did the U bolts go over the lower lift frame and still allow the upper frame to come down flat when it lowers?
Also, I mis-spoke about the number of bolts I was thinking about the hinges on the lift frames. The actual attachment from lower lift frame to truck frame is only 1 or 2 on each corner.

Jim,
Years ago My boss had a 63 C60 dump with a 6 yd Galion body on it.
The hoist frame was right on top of the chassis and had 8 pcs of flat steel stock welded on each side of it, hanging down almost the width of the frame rail and opposite one another.
A pair at each front corner and a pair midway down each side.
To each one basically was a 6" bolt,minus the head,welded to the strap and hanging below the frame rail.
Another piece of 1/2" flat 2" wide,6-8" long with 2 holes drilled in it went accross the bottom of the rail joining the 2 bolts.
Basically a U Bolt with no top on it.
Get the Idea?
steve sr.

Interesting mounting solution. Have never seen that on 40's or 50's farm trucks. Might have been more common on dump trucks?
Did see one that had welded L brackets to the side of lift frame and instead of putting matching brackets on the truck frame they used U bolts under the frame with nuts on top of the brackets. pieces of 2 by inside the frame.

The first thing I'd do,would be installing the P.T.O,(if needed), figure where to hang the pump,(shaft length,cross member location), the cylinder(s),and new hydraulic lines. Much easier,and SAFER, installing on bare frame. Either way,you're going to have to install the P.T.O. box cable(s),or lever
(s),on the ground,under the truck. If your trucks have different frame lengths,you'll need to take that into consideration,as well. The box fulcrum points will be different, (especially if mounted on a shorter wheel base). if it does have a shorter wheel base than the "donor",you may need to move the box-mounting hardware forward,to line-up with the hoist/hinge pivot point. If this is the case,I'd remove the hinge-mounting hardware,from under the box,and install it on the bare frame,as well. when you install your box,you can set it where it looks/works best on the truck,then mount it. Set the hinge pin(s) securely,then raise the front of the box high enough for ample clearance. Make sure you prop the box securely before even thinking about getting in there. If your box has a "safety Bar",or tow hitch,that may need removed,for ground clearance. This is due to the fact,that now your pivot point is moved forward,causing your box to drop at a different angle. That makes for easier machinery loading,though. My sub frame is welded,as well as bolted to the frame. No U bolts anywhere. Don't forget the "Safety Catch",On the pump,needs to line-up with the rod,usually 1/2" dia.,or better,that runs across the box frame. The "rail guides" can be over-looked,as well. Make sure all of these items are installed,and measured against the box frame mounting points,(if left intact). Once that's done,the box should mount fairly quickly. I'd replace the box lights/wiring, at this time,too. Only if need be,but now's a GOOD time. Mine were all spliced with cloth electrical tape,and 85 chunks of assorted color wire. Now all connections are soldered,di-electric greased,and heat-shrunk insulated. Should be good for another 50 years. You don't have the frame rails to crawl around on,or worry about the box dropping on your head,either.L.O.L. Hope this helps.