The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Help with compressor decision

This has most likely been posted many times, but here goes; I eventually want to paint my truck but in the meantime I want a multi task compressor. At present I do not have any air tools but will probably buy them when needed. I also would like one that is easy to move around..not too big. I made a mistake a few years ago and bought a HF model that is way too small and I don't want to repeat that again. I am sure that there is some good advice and preferences out there. I just want to know what to look for.

Look at the CFM rating of the most air hungry tool you'll be using. Get a compressor that has a higher rating than that in 'continuous' mode. As a rule the smaller, mobile compressors are only good for airing up tires. You'll be far happier in the long run to buy a stationary unit then run line drops to various places around your shop/garage. I bought an IR 80 gal capable of 18.2 CFM @ 90 PSI then ran pipe around the shop with several drops, all regulated. I have one full pressure drop just off of the compressor. I'm happy as a pig in ^*%#$ with my setup.

Tiny, just wondering if you have had any problems with the IR setup, I have been looking for quite some time to upgrade my compressor. I have read some reviews on the IRs that weren't too good. Just wondering. Thanks

Steve

No bad experiences at all. My compressor is probably several years old so maybe the new ones aren't as good as the older ones??

That could be I guess, I have looked in the last year or two at different ones. Have read the IRs have a pump unit made in China, have also seen the ones with an Indian pump. The reviews I have seen all say the pump is no good. I have an old Puma two cylinder portable I have had almost 20 years, was claimed to be made in the U.S. Runs the impacts fine but runs out of air for painting and is really weak running an orbital sander. Painting is ok on smaller projects but when I painted the inside of the cab had to stop to let the compressor catch up. I have read the Qunicy units are good but are a lot more money.

Steve

I've had a craftsman professional for 13 years and run it a lot. I'd suggest at least 17 or better CFM at 90psi like Tiny's. Mine is 17.9 @ 90psi and I have an 80 gal. tank which is another consideration when buying.
I did have to replace the motor on my Craftsman this Summer. Other than that I've changed the oil every year and run the daylights out of it. Paid 800 buck sin 2002 but not sure about Craftsman now.......Even now I wish I had sprung the money while I was working and bought a nice Quincy.....not sure but I have also heard Champion is a decent one but less $$ than Quincy.

.....it'd be nice to hear one run before you buy it to see how loud it is!

What brand depends on what size a little
The Champion 5 horse uses the same pump as the 7 hp
but the 7hp turns faster faster means makes more noise.
5HP Champion is nice and quiet.
in the 7HP the Quincy is preferred.

I run a 5HP Champion it will keep up with a small sand blaster
it's inside with me so noise would be an issue.
You can hold a normal conversation with it running right next to
It's day job is my machine shop air so it gets used quite a bit

none of the compressors that will supply enough air for painting are going to be easily portable.

IR is now pretty much consumer grade they got bought and quality has suffered.

Then you need to dry the air
An after cooler helps with that

Movinon , this is and has been an age old question and I will summit my 2 cents .

What you decide now will effect everything you can do for possibly the next 20 years so buy the biggest and the best you can afford .I have never seen a "movable" compressor that will keep up with regular heavy duty air tool use. if space is an issue a horizontal compressor may work better but air more $.... I do not your climate/ zoing but you may also put it outside

I have 2 compressors in my shop , both Ingersoll Rands . I have a 5 hp. that will run any of the air tools that I have plus the plasma cutter and small blast cabinet etc. HOWEVER I find a larger sandblaster is one of the most valued tools I have and is a must have for any serious restoration.... so I also have a 7.5 hp. that can run it all day long at he same time run all my other tools .

So if I had followed my own advise I would have had only one compressor, that being the 7.5 hp.

I would suggest buying a name brand though and my IG's are a good value for what I paid for them.

Good luck
Dan

Thanks everyone for all your suggestions. I think I need to do some home work before I can narrow it down. Like that movie "Nebraska". The guy just wanted a compressor. Turned out to be a Craftsman. Steve

Steve as everyone else is telling you, its all about CFM and the volume needed for long processes like sandblasting or painting. If you find a portable one that comes anywhere close, you need to let us know. I don't know of anyone who thinks they have enough of a compressor. Most everyone lusts for more. I started with a Sanborn 7hp single stage upright. Added a second unit the very same stats in tandem, giving me essentially 120 gallons of air and a single two stage 7 hp compressor in practice. It works for sandblasting, painting, everything, but just barely. If someone has a spare 20 grand they arent doing anything with, I will get the correct compressor for the job. LOL!

I DID go as cheap as I know how. 2 60 gal compressors is less than 2k. Others have much better setups than me. Also, others have better knowledge of this issue than me. Just sayin.

The skinny on compressors is that the data plates lie. Really.

I really like it when I hear a guy has a 5hp compressor motor that runs on 110V/20A wall circuit (nope, no way.. math says so) or quote the CFM of the compressor like THAT means anything.

Here's a guide that will get you close:
MOTORS:
5hp motor will need a 220V/20A drop
7hp motor will need a 220/30A drop
If you plug it into 110V outlet its of no real shop use.
Mag starts will help, but I've run my 5hp motor off the pressure switch (as long as bugs don't crawl into the contacts)

PUMP:
No real pump is gonna have less than two cylinders. If its a one lung pump consider it less than 5CFM actual air and useless for shop use.
If it's 'oil less' its useless for shop use.
Should turn less than 1000-1500 RPMs for quite operation and long life.. pulley should have a built in cooling fan, cylinder interconnects also should have cooling fins.
Have an unloader and ball bearings, not bushings on the crank.

My pump it 14CFM (http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/518643/184117.htm) with a 5HP (true) Baldor motor and I use it for everything.. paint, sand blasting, body work (orbital sanders) and tools (impact, air ratchet) and with a 60gal receiver.

Total cost was about $600 (about 6 years ago) but you could put together a much better compressor from parts that you can buy in a store.

Thanks for all this useful information pfarber. Steve

I forgot to ask what kind of compressor do you have? I might be out of luck as my shop is wired with 110v. Another thing, I am not doing a frame off restoration and realistically don't know how much I will need one that is a top of the line model. However, I do know that I would like to paint my truck at some point. The bottom line is: If I am going to get serious, I need to first of all change my electrical situation.

53movinon, I think I truly understand your situation and volunteer this info for what its worth.
In 1983 I purchased an ingersolrand 2HP, 20 gal tank that ran on 110 house current. It had a max psi of 120lb and would kick back on at 90psi which is what I kept it set on. I used it for my woodworking and mechanical jobs. Sometimes, I may have to wait on it a minute if I was really using the air tools.

I used it for MANY years. In fact, it is still sitting along my garage wall and still runs great. I ran it so hard that out of respect I'm letting it rest...and will soon give it to my son in law. So, a 110 CAN to the job. The BIG thing is to keep your air dry.....and they are cheap until you can go for the big one. Just more food for thought.

Thanks Alvin for putting things in perspective. Sounds like you made a wise choice back in 83. What do you mean when you say keep your air dry? Also is this compressor oil or oiless? Steve

Steve, it runs on oil. Change it once a year and by keeping air dry I simply mean to be sure to have a water filter/regulator on it to keep water from getting into you air tools. I oil my air tools regularly with a couple drops of oil and......
(you just don't want to use the air hose and water come shooting out of it into your air tools or sandblasting set up ect.)

The 110V units are not completely useless, as Achipmunk noted, but cycle time (you use up all the air in the receiver, and have to wait for the pump to slowly pressurize the tank.. SLOWLY)gets old quick.. and for painting or high CFM tools it makes a 10 minute job into an hour long one.

If you have one truck to work on, or more patience than money, the 110V units can work for you. I sandblasted some jeep parts with a Sears 110V unit and it took hours to do something that should have taken 30 minutes tops.

If you pick your tools right, you can also somewhat mitigate the low CFM/receiver size. If you paint, get a pressure pot system, ditto for sandblasting.. it will give the air you have more working time and they are much more adjustable.

Use electric tools vs air, other than saving weight air and electric tools do the same thing. But an air drill is much lighter than an electric one, but they both spin drill bits.

For the $250 you will spend on a 110V unit vs the $1000+ you will spend on a 'shop' sized 220V unit look into the future and ask if you have one 1 truck to work on, or plan on doing many more. For 1 truck, the 110v unit will get you by. I am on my 2 of 4 trucks... so I didn't want to sacrifice time and tool performance... I got things that need done now.

Thanks again for your advice, but one truck is enough for me to take on.