The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop oil lines to the filter on 235

What are the best options for the lines going to and from the filter. Today I went to napa and was not impressed with their option of high pressure hose. Is ridgid tubing an option, I don't mind bending and flaring tubing. If all else fails I just may take the filter off. Thoughts? Dave

These lines since new have been set-up as rubber I am guessing a hard line may be subject to vibration and an eventual failure? Why don't you like the rubber hose versions? Most vendors carry them if you don't care for NAPA's.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/15652083208/in/set-72157631868452754

They look nice to me. What pressure, maybe 300psi. Napa wanted to use real high pressure line. Dave

I am not sure how far you are to a hose shop but I used a local hose shop , I moved my canister so the originals would not work anyway. I went to the local hose shop and gave them the measurements and I walked out a few minutes more with my set up. They did mine in stainless steel braded and I am Happy with the set up.

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I would recommend the rubber. The braided lines looked good too.I have done the trick with the metal lines and it generally works. It has been suggested before to put a Lockheed loop?? in the metal lines to fight the vibration. This is just making a coil in the line.

I was convinced that the factory style rubber lines were best when I smogged an intersection with smoke from an oil leak hitting the manifold.

I took the easy way out & used regular rubber fuel line & barbed fittings.

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I used metal lines and thought I did a great job. The first time I tried to use the drain plug I found out why flexible lines would have been better!

I've put approx. 8500 miles on a 216 w/rubber lines feeding the bypass oil canister without a problem (knock on wood).
Got the rubber lines as a kit from one of the aftermarket suppliers many use on this board.
Kit had everything needed to connect from block to canister and back.

Dave

Learn something every day if you pay attention. Lockheed loop. Love it. Ridged lines need to flex. Heat, cool, and shake will destroy them. How did I learn? Put three gallons of gas in your boot and on top of a hot engine at 60 miles per hour. That will get your attention! It will also keep you from work. And no one will stop for scooter trash with one boot during a busy commute. I should have known. We use them all the time for Aircraft hydraulics. Dummy, dummy. I never knew that loop had a name Thanks!

How many tractors with bypass filters do you suppose Ford made? Millions? They all came with hard lines. Since the filters are attached rigidly to the engine, there is no movement to cause metal fatigue. Same deal with manifold mounted filters on Chevrolets.
My belief is that, since Chevrolet trucks didn't come with the filter, it was up to the filter manufacturers (Fram etc) to come up with a way to plumb the lines for a number of different configurations of engines. Soft lines would have been the most forgiving for minor variations between engines encountered. Steel lines would have been more economical, so it wasn't about saving a few pennies. Just my 2 cents.
Carl

Carl,

You have made a good point. So you think the rubber line method of production was more for the flexibility in production and application than the need for flexibility in the connection?

Anyone have some good images of your hard line solutions?

Paul

I used copper lines and after a few years they work hardened and broke . I believe any style of flex line is a better option.

The by-pass oil filter lines on GMCs are copper - for the filter units that bolt to the block.

I've never had an issue with hard lines and think it looks cleaner:
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Merry Christmas Bolters!

Curt B. You have sold me. What kind of tube did you use and did you use flare or compression fittings? Dave

Dave,

I've always used 3/16" prefab brake lines utilizing the existing flare on one end and a compression fitting on the end I cut to length.

Curt, do you use the original fitting that restricts the oil flow?

I was told the restriction was in the filter canister, is that correct?

In the Canister.

The stand pipe in the center of the filter housing has a small hole in the side of it that the oil passes through.

One of the pictures shows a spin on

Guess I should have mentioned that spin on filter head is an Amsoil bypass unit which has a restrictor plug built in. (1/16" diameter)

Thanks, Curt

What is the Amsoil part number?

Part number is BK303. Here's a link which shows the restrictor plug.

When plumbing hard lines for various applications, I've always included a 360 degree vibration loop somewhere in the line if possible. Bending the line all the way around a big socket (1 1/4" or so) clamped in a vise makes a good looking vibration loop without collapsing the tubing.
Jerry