The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Tail Lights - 1954 Chevy Truck

I recently purchased the original tail lights from classic parts along with the 7 wire turn signal switch. I have the one bulb dual filaments in each tail light. Brand new wiring for the entire truck, completed less the tail lights which when we when we hook are not acting right. When plugged in the brake lights will work. The flashers will work. The turn signals will inevitably cause both tail lights to start blinking. We have gone over every wire to be certain we have it hooked up correctly but are still at this point. I've read about a trailer tail light converter idea. Would you say this could be the answer or is there another problem or solution?

Thanks a lot and happy holidays

Everything must be grounded well. Bed grounded to frame, light housing grounded to bed. Bed was originally grounded by mounting bolt connection which is probably corroded by now. I recommend a strap, bed to frame.

Thanks Cletis for the response. The one thing I failed to mention is that when I attached the circuit tester to the left turn signal wire and attached an old parking light to the right turn signal wire it all appears to work just fine. (As in I merely added another light to the equation for both sides) So that would lead me to believe everything was grounded and that the wiring harness isn't cancelling out or turn signal switch isn't cancelling something out.

Any time both lights flash, the issue is a ground. The circuit is using the second light to get to ground. To get the lights on my truck to work properly, I added a strap(wire) from the bed(bolt on the fender) to the frame. You can only see it if you are underneath. I added a wire from the mount screw to the bundle and bolted it to the frame. Covered it all up with a split tube and have no problems for the last 2 years.

Thanks Steve. I'm going to try this idea out for sure. I guess the only thing that throws me off is how come when I throw in a second light to both sides that it appears to work fine. Yet when I plug the 3 wires into the two wires on the tail lights it doesn't work? It just comes off like something isn't cancelling. Either way I'm going to try this idea that Cletis and you both mentioned. Thanks a lot!

I had this same problem with mine. New repop lights and the 7-wire signal from classic parts. I had to add a ground wire from the back post of the tailight housing, to the taillight bracket.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums...33C86E0D-67FD-4A92-95C8-123D2422D90F.jpg

I ended up soldering it on and it looks much cleaner now. Some people run that ground wire from the housing to the bed/frame.

Thanks GMJager. Seems like the consensus is grounding the wire. On a side note, where did you get that radio delete plate on your dash?

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Start with the extra ground wire, see where that takes you... if you're still having trouble, let us know here!

And that radio delete plate was in the truck when I got it! I think I've seen them in the for sale section here or on eBay! If I see one I'll message you!

Thanks a lot for all the information. Going to try the grounding for sure.

Also, the turn signal unit housing must be grounded. Just strapping it to the steering column doesn't mean it's making electrical contact to the column.

Thanks Bztguy. What the problem is is that the turn signal switch isn't cancelling out. Duh. I'm new at all of this and just figured it would have come stock like that but I guess you have to find one that specifically cancels out. I have also read about a trailer light wire converter being used. Any suggestions please feel free to provide.

Thanks again.

scooter, I don't think there are any current aftermarket units that self cancel, get used to it the cancel function is mechanical, not electrical, and is only present on some vintage units that have a small rubber wheel on them that rides on the steering wheel

Bill

So does that mean you are using the ol hand to signal turns?

I have the same setup in my 54, I routinely forget that I have to cancel the turn signal by moving the lever back to center after I complete the turn. Even though the green light on the signal housing is flashing and the audible ticking should alert me...........welcome to 1954!!

The original poster's truck is a 1954, so there are reproduction signal units that almost match the GM accessory signal unit for that year. It is self-cancelling (without the rubber wheel used on GM accessory self-cancelling units for earlier years). The price of the reproduction parts is $$, compared to other after-market non-cancelling units.

Turnsignal cup assembly
Turnsignal switch cancellor
Turnsignal handle (not like original style, but close)

As is the case with any signal assembly/installation, a flasher module and holder (and wiring, and patience/perseverance) would be needed.

Chevs of the 40s sells a nice electronic flasher (it works with incandescence and LED signal lights).
flasher bracket (3-prong like original - 2-prong brackets/flashers are also available)
6v flasher
12v flasher
12v LED-compatible flasher
6v audible flasher

Thanks tclederman.

Thanks DADS50.

I also have the non cancelling type turn signal. I originally had it mounted horizontal on the steering. It was not visible when flashing. I rotated it about 20 degrees on the steering column. Now when I forget to cancel it, I see the blinking light.

that audible flasher from chev's of the 40's gives a beep

not a click

if that matters to anyone

Time to develop a new habit. I mounted mine so I could see it, Just under the "cross arm" on the steering wheel. Visual is good, sound is better. I also moved it close to the wheel so an extended finger will just touch the arm on the signal stat. After just a few days, I could tell if the signal was off by feel and location. On the other hand, I am getting older, That by it's self has given me the privilege of driving with the flashing lights on at any time. Keeps the other folks on the road with me guessing where and when I just might turn....:)

Parts/Wiring:
1) 6 wires from wiring harness
2) 3 wires for each taillight (brake, turn signal, taillight)
3) 2 wires coming out of each taillight
4) One bulb - dual filament
5) $20 turn signal switch from classic parts

Issue:
1) The brake lights work when hooked up.
2) The flashers work when hooked up.
3) The taillights turn on when the headlights are on.
4) The turn signals both flash when you go right or left.

Solutions offered:
1) Ground, Ground! = Done and still both taillights flash
2) Flasher = Purchased and still both taillights flash
3) Self canceling misinterpreted its meaning in that the turn signal would override the brakes and "SELF CANCEL" out. When in fact it just means to turn it self off when you make the turn.


Still in need of a solution. Thanks!

can you link the signal switch you purchased form classic parts? what item number was it?

Turnsignal switch =

http://www.classicparts.com/1941-59-Turnsignal-Switch-Assembly/productinfo/53-551/#.VK7LdyvF-Ck

Flasher =

http://www.partdeal.com/truck-lite-...309&gclid=CKic6Z6DhcMCFceVfgodt1wAEw

you may have a bad switch

or that flasher is for LED's


try a 550 flasher, you should be able to pick one up at your local auto parts store.

Originally I had this flasher and the situation was far worse off.

http://www.classicparts.com/1941-59-Turnsignal-Flasher-12-Volt/productinfo/53-562/#.VK7Y4SvF-Ck

The switch has also been suggested as being bad and we have had that feeling from the beginning. Can you link me the switch you think works best i.e. 550.

Thanks!

your tail lamps only have one bulb?

I assume an 1157

sorry Im not familiar with the 54 tail lamp


Just to be clear
when you hit the brakes the brake lamp comes on?

your only problem is when you signal left or right your rear lights come on hazard mode? (what about the front do they both flash)
is the hazard arm on the switch engaged? (not sure how that one works)

1) One bulb.
2) Both brake lights work in the back
3) Front signal lights work perfectly.
4) Hazard is not engaged when they both flash when making a right or left turn.

sound like a bad switch

but I'm not familiar with the 54 single bulb set up.

hopefully someone else with have a better Idea for you

here is the tech tip
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/turn_signal.htm

your doing a good job with the trouble shooting.

thanks for the help DADS50

Seeing how when I added an additional lights to both sides and the turn signals worked perfectly, I'm having my doubts that this new turn signal switch is really going to be the answer. Does anyone know how exactly the turn signals override the brakes when going right or left. That seems to be the mystery to this whole thing and what I can't seem to get right.

the brake light power goes to the lights via the turn switch, when you select a direction the switch activates that light or interrupts it if the brakes are being applied - if both rear [brake] lights come on with the signal activated, you have something mis-wired - brake and turn are not 2 separate circuits - here's a schematic for an add on unit, and here's the factory 55.2 diagram

Bill

Thanks Red58!

Thanks Red58. After further review and a friend coming over to help, we realized that the 3 wires going into the 2 taillight wires was not correct. We disregarded the brake light wires from the harness altogether and just used the turn signal wire and taillight wire from the harness. A little counter intuitive but in the end worked perfectly. Thanks Red58 and everyone else for the suggestions and help.

Just curious

with the aftermarket switch you linked you do only need 3 wires run the the tail lights.


one wire for the left Brake/Signal (brightest filament)
one wire for the right Brake/Signal (Brightest filament)
one wire for both tails


the brake function is handled through the turn signal switch.

As in there were a total of 6 wires coming to the back with only 4 wires to tie into. We disregarded the two brake light wires from the harness because those were now tied into the turn signal wires via the switch.