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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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#10699 01/02/2005 6:55 PM | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 | Other than stainless steel, does anyone have a technique for slowing down rust on tailpipes? I put new ones on about 6 weeks ago and they already look awful.
shoeless | | |
#10700 01/02/2005 7:07 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | I've been using a Hi-Temp paint that my muffler shop buddy clued me into some years back. This paint is by plasti-kote #HP-11, says resists heat to 1500 deg.
First you scrub or clean the pipes with a scotch brite greenie pad. Spray on the paint, run the vehicles so it gets hot and dry. Then next day after paint is really dry take an old towel or clean dry wrag and polish or 'burnish' the pipes til shinny. I've used this method on a couple cars, last a long time.
Also must good shops today use aluminized pipe only. | | |
#10701 01/02/2005 7:40 PM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I used 1 3/4" galvanized fence posts to run my dual exhaust back in April. They had sat for almost 4 years behind a shed in my backyard and hadn't rusted so I figured, what the heck. You've gotta use a respirator if you weld galvanized metal though as it's toxic. If you can use clamps and no welding, even easier (although leaks will be prone). Auto parts stores will usually have small pre-bent pieces of aluminized if you need to make turns here and there. -David Kustoms-and-Sleds | | |
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