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| | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 | I'm starting to remove the bed of my '50 1/2 ton to do the body work. I can't afford to do it all at once so I figured I would do the back first, brush paint the frame and work on the bed panels a piece at a time. Can anybody give me the hints and problems associated with removing the parts as I go. I have the rear fenders off and now thinking tailgait and side panels. Other than breaking bolts, anything I should be warned of? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | i always like to set the bed sides, front and rear panel off together. you can still do that as the rear cross sill is attached at the back. it jsut makes it easier to handle. got a couple saw horses you can sit it accross. the older you get the less you like to bend over to work on something. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | i forgot to mention before you take it off its a good time to measure how high it sits off the chassis and just how the bed blocks etc are turned and located. When i put my bed back on i had some old firehose that i cut up and made "washers" to go between chassis and blocks etc to reduce any possible squeaks in the future. Be mindful to that just a little difference in the distance between cab and bed is critical. as you drive it the cab and the bed "shifts" so the front of the bed could rub the back of the cab. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 141 | Hey chipmunk !just got finished with the rear of my 52 I found that if yer gonna replace yer bolts(and most you will)a good 4 1/2 grinder with a metal cutting wheel grind the bolt heads right off. good luck bro | | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 59 | WOW, was hoping for some more ideas. Not that the two I got won't help, but not all that helpful for all the experience with this as you all seem to have. Do you need to have a secret handshake or icon to get some replies or is it the wording of my question? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Cougs, I haven't taken mine off yet, but I was going to do a similar thing. (Mine is a '50 too). If you get stuck you are welcome to come over to my place to measure and take pictures. I have a couple extra crossmembers too.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | GoCougs,
I've had my bed apart before and didn't find any surprises. Everything is bolted together so you can't get into too much trouble. I'm about 6 months late from having my truck painted but when I do, I'll be removing the bed so I can por 15 the frame, etc. I agree that once you remove the fenders, to take the box off intact. I'd have all new bolts ready to go.
Norselander, Hows my favorite suburb of Cutten???
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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