The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Crankshaft Snout Drill & Tap Guide

I went to a guys house outside of B'ham a few years back, and he had just passed away suddenly. But he had the largest Model A rebuilding business in Hemmings Motor News. He had all the block pouring and boring jigs, automatic cylinder hone, crank grinder, block surfacer, etc....and a complete inventory of engine parts. He had invoices where he had rebuilt over 800 Model A's in his career. Not sure who ended up getting that stuff, but im sure they stole it. His wife had no idea what he had in his shop.

Too bad! At least I have a son who is a GM-certified technician, a daughter who builds her own engines, and a young trainee I'm bringing along in the old-school methods and tricks of the trade. How many 30-year-olds are out there who know how to scrape-fit Babbit rods and set up oil clearance shims on a 216? He's also learning to weld, and run the boring bar, lathe, and other machinery in the shop. If any of you have the opportunity to share your skills with a younger guy (or girl) don't waste it! None of us are going to be around forever.
Jerry

How does one go about renting the crank end drill/tap bushing kit from Hotrod Lincoln?

Thanks.

You might have to wait until you have made 5 posts.

Click on his name and you might see his email address and be able to Private Message (PM) him.

He requires a high deposit and a small rental "fee". He has had bad experiences getting equipment back from people he lends them to.

10-4, Tim! I lost another kit recently to a low post count forum member, even with a big deposit! I guess that's a pretty sincere form of flattery, but I'd rather somebody would just ask to buy a kit! I do have a couple of them going together as sales, not rentals. I just don't want to make it look like I'm using my forum connections to make a profit- - - -either rental or sale of a kit is pretty much a break-even proposition.
Jerry

Renting the kit from you was the best thing I could have done for my truck. Actually buying one from you would have been better for you, though. Next time!

Engine is still running strong with no sloppy balancer.

Thanks for all you help.

Craig

Thanks, Craig! Glad to help!
Jerry

...a CNC run of say 50 sets could tip the scales considerably. PM me if interested.

Edit: my reference to "tip the scales" does not refer to profitability for myself or Jerry but to help fellow bolters with an economical solution. I like to think I know Jerry well enough that we're on the same page in that regard.

Thanks for the offer, Curt. The only custom-made part I'm having to fabricate is a reducer bushing a little over an inch long, with a 1 1/4" OD, a 5/8" ID, and a flange on one end. There are two diameter cuts, two facing cuts, and a close-tolerance boring operation for the ID so a hardened drill guide bushing is a close fit. The main part of the tool is a 3" long milling cutter spacer with a 1 1/4" ID and a keyway, purchased online from Victor Machinery Co. It's a close slip fit over the crankshaft snout and serves as a holder for the guide bushings for the drill bit and the tap. I do have to open up the 7/16" guide bushing ID a few thousandths with a diamond bit mounted in a Dremel tool on the lathe tool post because the tap flutes are a bit larger diameter than a 7/16" drill bit and the bushing is too hard to drill. Simple operations, just several of them with the associated setup time.

Here's a pic of the kit, including a balancer pusher to avoid hammering the balancer back on. The reducer bushing I make is beside the milling cutter spacer, with the 1/8" wide flange facing upward.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/Drill_and_tap_guide_2_005.JPG

I'm also building a holding and alignment fixture to bore 216 connecting rods for insert bearings, one that will replace the compound swivel on my lathe carriage. The precision boring head will be mounted in a 4-jaw chuck and dial-indicated for centering. I used a similar machine a few years ago in an automotive machine shop, but it was dedicated to rod boring only, and it cost about $20,000.00! I'll have a little less than $200.00 invested in my fixture, plus 20 or 30 hours of labor time!
Jerry

to: Hotrod Lincoln
I am in the process of removing radiator, condenser, etc. to relace the harmonic balancer on my wife's 57 Bel Air (original 283 v8). Did you complete the drill and tap centering guides, and will they work on the 283? Do you have pictures, design drawings, or part numbers for bearings and guides that you would make available? Alternatively, is the fixturing still available to borrow or rent? I would prefer to do the drilling with the engine in the car if possible.
in your experience, did you drill/tap with engine installed in car? Did you find particular types or brands of drill bits, taps, or cutting oils to be preferred? Are there any other technique tips you may have? I apologize for the number of questions, but as a retired engineer I prefer to gain as much as possible from others' experiences.

Yes, the tooling can be used with the engine installed. Just pack some paper towels or rags into the timing cover to prevent shavings from getting into the crankcase. There's no point in having a securely-held harmonic balancer on a crankshaft that's been ruined by metal shavings in the bearings. I have lost two tooling kits by loaning them to forum "members" with very low post counts. They paid the deposit, and just kept the kit. I'll be glad to sell a kit- - - -just say you want to buy one. If you rent it PLEASE return it for a refund of most of the deposit. Any properly-sharpened drill bit and/or tap is adequate. Chevy crankshafts are tough, not hard, and anyone with more than three brain cells to rub together should be able to do a good job of drilling and tapping the crank, as long as you don't get impatient and try to force the tap. Turn it clockwise about 3/4-1 turn with lots of lubricant, then back up 1/4 turn to break off the chips. I like to thread the hole about 1 1/4" deep with a 7/16-20 thread which is the same center bolt that later-model Chevy V8's have. I provide a new, or freshly-sharpened drill bit and a sharp tap with the kit, along with a jackscrew push tool to install the balancer without having to hammer it on.

Forum members with less than five posts are "moderated", meaning they cannot participate in the private message system, either sending or receiving messages that don't appear on the open forum. Once you have a few more posts under your belt, you can access the membership list, which contains my email address, or we can communicate by private message.

I'm looking forward to hearing from you.
Jerry

What is the cost to buy?

I provide the full kit, including a guide sleeve which can also be used to align the timing cover/front seal assembly, drill and tap guide bushings, drill bit, tap, and balancer installer, for $75.00 plus $5.50 flat rate shipping.

Rental involves a $100.00 deposit, with $75.00 rebated when the tooling comes back in good shape. I pay one-way shipping in a USPS small flat rate box.
Jerry

Hotrod Lincoln:
I am interested in purchasing the kit outright at the $75.00 + $5.50 shipping. Being new to the forum, I do not know the purchasing protocol yet. Can you ( or the moderator checking initial posts) let me know the procedure?
Bob

1. Go to this link at the forum Welcome Center. Leave two "good luck" posts on other member's introductions, or introduce yourself and leave one other comment; the goal is to have 5 posts to get un-moderated. Then, you will transform into the title "New Guy" and you can click on another user's name and use the "private message" function.

2. Or, you can re-read this thread and note that the original poster (Hotrod Lincoln) already posted his email address for other moderated members who did not have access to the PM function yet.

Either of these two methods would be the procedure to use for working out the details of obtaining a kit.

Brad

Brad, Thanks for the help.
Bob

Hey Jerry,
I'm brand new to this forum, a week ago I lost my harmonic balancer while driving ~ 60 mph. I actually found it in the grass beside the highway, the pulley a bit mangled, and the snout of the balancer banged up a bit.
The car is a '36 Chev sedan delivery with a '62 283.
I will have to pull all the front end sheet metal off the car, to get at the crank snout. I think I will be able to clean up the snout end and drill and tap it to 7/16" nf.
Do you still have your drilling fixture ?, or can point me in the right direction ?
I'm in Canada not too far (100 miles)from the border at Buffalo.
Thanks, best regards.
Ed

Hi, Ed! Sorry to hear about the mishap with the balancer! Yes, I have the drill/tap fixture, either for rent or sale, your choice. I'd suggest that you purchase a new balancer rather than try to re-use your old one, which is obviously worn at least somewhat. New 6" diameter balancers that are original-equipment size for the 283 are available on Ebay at a very reasonable price. I use them to build up the 2-sheave pulley balancers for stovebolt sixes, with a little machining to get the belt alignment right. Make a few more posts so you can access the private message function and I'll reply with an email address and/or a phone number. I think you can use the PM function after you make 5 posts.
Jerry

Post away, Ed. you can send PM's after 4post. until then no one can send you a PM or you send them one. Only three more to go
Get that Chevy back on the road!


EDIT: oh, and welcome to Stovebolt.

Thanks Jerry,
I will go through the appropriate posting protocol and then take you up on your offer to purchase a kit. My plan was for new pulleys and balancer, and I guess the seal on the timing chain cover.
We were coming back from the last show in our short season when it came off ~ 40 miles from home. With the car on the CAA(AAA) flatbed, I realized the glass is half full, no one was hurt when the missile went careening across the highway into on coming traffic. The only apparent damage to the car other than the obvious was a dandy crease in the oil filter. This whole episode didn't happen 1000 miles from home in St Paul (Back to the Fifties).
Thanks again for your help.
Best regards.
Ed

Hey Achipmunk,
Thanks for your welcome, the car will be going away for the winter shortly. I am going to try and get it fixed earlier rather than later while it's away. Hopefully, it will be out next April.
Best regards.
Ed

Ed Mann & Spiderbob,
You guys can't go wrong with Jerry's kit. It was very straight forward. Even I was able to do it

Hey cmayna,
Thanks, I just have to get the sheet metal off the front of the car, then I hope it should be straight forward.
Best regards.
Ed

Hi Jerry, I'm new to this site and I have, of course, done the unthinkable. Yes I attempted to pull the old Balencer off of my 1970 Chevelle with a 350 SB engine the wrong way and I flattened about 3/4 of an inch of the 7/16-20 fine threads inside of the crank snout. When I did this you can't imagine the horror that came over me as all I could do is think about pulling this engine "again" just because of my stupid attempt to pull the Balancer.

My question to you is, Do you still have the "Crankshaft Snout Drill & Tap Guide" available to loan out? If so how can I connect with you to possibly get this from you as I am terrified to attempt this free hand as I know I have only one shot at doing this the right way. The last thing I want to do is pull the engine if I don't have to.

Thanks Jerry for your consideration

Steve

Steve- Welcome to Stovebolt! Scroll up the thread and read some of the previous posts that cover this; there's a couple different ways to get in touch with Jerry.
I hope this helps you-
Brad

Steve, make about 3 or 4 more posts, and you will have access to the private message function. Shoot me a PM and I'll be glad to get back to you. I have lost a couple of kits by renting to people with low post counts, even with a big deposit, so I'm a little gun-shy of a one-post wonder who wants to rent a kit. The deposit covers the cost of reproducing the kit parts, but not the labor time. I also sell kits.
Jerry

Brad, thanks so much for the help in connecting with Jerry. Merry Christmas

Steve

Ed, I wish you good luck, as I know I will need it with my repair, and hope you have a merry Christmas.

Good luck Bob on your repair, as I know I will need the same on mine. Have a Merry Christmas.

Jerry, I completely understand your concern with loaning out your guides, and with some unscrupulous folks out there. It is a shame that people can't recognize a great thing that you are willing to provide and just follow your wishes in returning the guides. I look forward to further communication with you and really thank you for doing this as us first time motor heads out here really need some help at times:):)

Hey Motor Head,
Thank you, it's done, Jerry's kit worked like a charm. I don't know what your intentions are, but the cost to purchase this kit from Jerry is very reasonable, that's the way I went.
Good luck with your Chevelle.
Ed

Hi Jerry,
New poster but long time reader of this forum. I recently purchased a 53 Studebaker Commander that has a 283/2 speed power glide that I am converting to a 4 speed. I have my balancer removed and of course do not have the treaded end on the crank. Reading your post about your kit I would sure like to rent it. is it possible that you would PM to discuss the availability of renting your kit. I fully understand about one time posters and not getting kits returned that is why I would like to correspond with you and see if its possible to rent it.
Appreciate your time.

Thanks
Donnie

Donnie, until you make at least 4 post you cannot send a PM to or from Jerry. You'll need to make about 2 more post and then PM him...or use his email address which is in his profile to send him an email. To see his profile click on his name and a dropdown will show it.

Hi Jerry:

I am now in that boat. My early 327 harmonic balancer came loose. Luckly it didnt come flying off. I have put this on a few times over the years and recall the last time I installed it after a rebuild several years ago, it tapped on with not much resistance at all. I guess that shouldve been a sign...and I did think about that but didnt do anything about it. So now I'm thinking I need to get this crank snout drilled and tapped and get this bolted on.
I would greatly appreciate the use of any kind of tool to assist with a straight on guided drill and tap job. Any help / advice . Thanks much Steve

Hi Jerry, its my situation exactly today. I would be happy and apreceiate very much to buy your guide tool to do this drill & tap job on my older 327. Please let me know how I can connect with you on this. - Steve

Send me an email, or keep posting until you can use the Private Message function of this site. I think you need to make 2 or 3 more posts before PM is available to you. That helps keep the spammers and trolls under control, at least a little!
Jerry

Hotrod do you still have the drilling kit to drill the crankshaft snout?

Anybody got this tool for loaning or for sale? Pm'd hotrod lincoln.