The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 54 COE 1st steps

Now that I have the COE, I am thinking through my objectives. I want to keep this looking as original as possible but make it a wise investment for the future.

The 1st question that comes up regards the motor. Should I try and re-build the existing motor (not sure if 235 or 261 yet) or pull the engine and put something more current in the truck? Do I get more value eventually if I have the original engine that has been properly re-built?

Depends on what you want to do with it. There are performance parts available for 235 or 261 motors but the rears in these trucks wre geared quite slow so road speed may not be what you want with out changing rears. If your thought is to recoup your investment it is easy to get much more into the bigger trucks than you'll get out. Decide what your long term goal is first, local cruiser, interstate ready, trailer queen etc.

I have talked to a few of you now and convinced that I can easily get over my head financially if I don't watch my step. I'm only trying to bring this back to it's original character and performance. If it only has top speeds of 40 - 45, I'm fine with that and the next Owner can jazz it up.

I'm going to try and bring the existing motor back to life, get the brakes working and then I can decide how far I want to take the sheet-metal and paint. It looks great as it is and most of the work is inside the cab and the bed, both of which I am comfortable doing.

Thanks for the feedback

Bob,

What is the Engine Serial Number pressed into the block in the ledge to the rear of where the distributor goes into the block. This code is one way to find out if you have a 235 or 261.

Your last post describes a reasonable way to proceed.

I'm going to crawl under the motor tomorrow and find the serial number.

I just sent you a PM about finding COE parts. You can answer that here if it would benefit others.

Thanks!

Bob,

You'll soon feel the joys of trying to deal with an engine that has the cab over it.

Jim Carter is now listing rubber pads with glue (let's hope the glue works}:
- 2 fender pads
- 4 step pads

Here are other COE parts from Jim Carter.

Bob, Look for "Captain's bars,located on the left side of the block,between the frost plugs,near the head. There should be another set located between the starter and the distributor. yours may only have one bar,9on the distributor side). If you have the "C.B."'s,then you have a 261. My T.F. '55 has a 261/SM420/Corporate 2-speed rear. On the "Hi"-side,I drive "her" at a comfortable 55 M.P.H.,with about a 1/2 inch of pedal left. I don't have a tach,but I'm guessing it's turning between 3,000-3250 R.P.M.'s at 55.I installed a set of "Fenton" headers.That increased my gas mileage by about 6-7%! I'm in the process of installing a new wiring harness,as well as a one-wire alternator,and an H.E.I. distributor. If I change anything in the future,it would be newer style rims to accomodate radials. I'm not looking to increase speed,but to get the best fuel mileage and performance I can,while keeping it as basic as possible. Limited funds:(

Is the identification of the 235 vs 261 solely the "Captain's Bars"? I don't have the truck at my home yet but a friend got the engine serial number but I forgot to ask him about the C.B.s

Engine serial number is 0865618F540

I guess that means it came from Flint, Michigan and is indeed a 54 but don't know what the zero or "o" means at the end.

Bob,

F54O might be F54Q, which usually indicates a 1954 261.

The best way to ID an engine is to find/post the following codes:
1. block casting code
2. block date casting code
3. head casting code
4. head date casting code
5. Engine Serial Number (which you posted above)

I'd bet you have a 261 (unless someone other than GM pressed that ESN on the block).

Not all 261 engines have the Captain Bars. The 261, I removed from the '55 1st series Chevy COE, I parted out several years ago did not.

Hi there, This is Caseman44 in Walnutport, Pa. 610-767-8370. I have 1954 235 engines in stock. I have extra C.O.E. truck parts from 1951 trucks, rears, springs, transmissions, rims, rear steps etc. Please feel free to call or email me at [email protected] Thanks, Harold

Thanks Harold - I'll drop you an e-mail. I'll be in PA in July; I'll try to see if Walnutport is along the way.

What does the sequence of embossed numbers mean on the side of the block above the spark plug holes?

Embossed numbers on block

Bob,

Those are codes that no one has posted a meaning for.

Did you find the 5 other codes at the locations shown in my link above?

Thanks Tim

I just pulled the floor pans and took a leaf blower to clean all the debris out today. I'm going to seek out the marking and confirm this is a 261 tomorrow. The truck looks very complete so far and is in really good shape. Just debating now if I can work on everything with the engine in or just pull the engine and work on it outside the truck.

Bob,

What work do you want to do on the engine?

It is a PITA to do more than a tune-up with it in place, and, it is a PITA to remove it from a COE.

I feel like if I am going to take a run at this properly, I should repair or replace all the ancillary parts: distributor, water pump, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. I don't even know if this runs yet, and I have plenty of time, so that is making me contemplate pulling it entirely.

Pull me off the ledge, please.

Tim

Using the "de-coding" info you gave me, I feel more confidant that I have a 261 engine. I pulled the starter and found the date code and it has the Captain's bars above. I'm going to find the code to the right of the distributor next and then I'm more certain.

Captain's Bars & date code

Next, I'm finding a replacement for the shredded harmonic balancer I found behind the radiator. This one split right at the woodruff key slot. Even if the engine seized up suddenly, I can't imagine a force great enough to splay open the balancer in such a manner.

Shredded harmonic balancer

Thanks for your help.