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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 144
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 144
I have a motor (not running yet) installed in a chassis and despite trying to blow it out a bunch w/compressor and pressure washer, the coolant coming out of the block still displeases me greatly (rusty water). I have considered buying enough vinegar to pour in through the open block (have the thermo housing off and have back water drain out) and let sit, but then considered muriatic acid/water (have been reading searches on here)....but then I thought, should I just wait until engine is running, will the engine heat help alot more in this quest to remove rusty water (old farm truck had the 235, surely been ran on well water). It pumped out lime or calcium first then moved to rust. Back plug is unstopped (took awhile w/flatheads), and water coming completely through. Your notions?

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
vinegar is VERY corrosive, if you use it make sure you flush well, repeatedly .... yes, a hot engine will flush better, and there are a number of flushing compounds available at auto stores

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Get it to run, and then drain and fill with water and a cup of automatic dish washing detergent...NOT regular stuff it'll foam.
Then drain, refill, run then drain and put in the good stuff.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Joined: Feb 2000
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,212
Or, power wash it from the drain up to the t-stat, then the other way. No acid's unless its made for block flushing. I have flushed radiators with regular coolant system cleaners using a water pump and hoses. I just let it set on the floor, ran hoses to the pump, and let it set and run for a day. Being cold water it took longer, but with no engine to use, this worked really good. You could do the same, plumb a hose from the drain to a pump, and then dump it back into the top. A day of running would really help.

Joe

Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
Automatic dish soap is made with a "base" like phosphorus, lye, That sort of stuff. Not an acid. Think "CLR" the stuff that is used in bath room cleaning. It is less likely to cause corrosion.


Steve H
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 165
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 165
VC-9 from Ford. Good stuff.

Good luck.


36 Chevy 1.5 ton - rusting away
52 Chevy 3100 - in progress
72 Chevy K20 - DD

PANTS UP DON'T LOOT! PANTS UP DON'T LOOT!

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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 144
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 144
Thanks again for your thoughts, wanted to follow up for future when someone else runs search. Removing the thermostat housing and water pump enable much more efficient cleaning and got it running clear. There is areas on each side of water pump that is low spot that I was able to get to better with it out of way and that's where the remaining crud was hiding.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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