The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline What will fit as a replacement?

I was wondering what I should be looking for to replace the torque tube set up in my 50 chevy 3100? What years of trucks did Chevrolet produce after this that have a rear end that I could use to replace the original?(Without major welding or complications involved) Eventually, I want to put in a floor shifter and a four speed to go behind my 59 235 engine. Just want to know what to keep an eye out for in my travels?

not major, but you'll need to be changing spring mounting to dump the torque tube anyway you do it - the best bet is just replace the center section with a 55-59 pumpkin, keep the original housing

Bill

The only thing that will bolt up without welding or complications is a rear and springs from a '55 first series truck.

Ya, The 1955 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton 1st series truck chassis is the same as the 1950 Chevy 3100 chassis.
The only difference is the 1950 had a torque tube and 1955 1st series truck had open drive shaft.
I think the 1955 1st rear frame rail axle arch is a little less higher than the 1950.
Check what out Jim Carter says about why they changed frame rail height.
1954 & 1955 1st has a different bed and has a three inch increased depth. Bump stops were also relocated.

Frame rail change should not make a difference when installing a 1955 1st open drive line on a 1950 truck.
1955 1st open drive line would be the easiest conversion.

Why does everybody like to dump the enclosed driveshaft?? It works fine unless you are looking to upgrade to a T5 or automatic.
A 1955-59 pumpkin will fit in the original housing, but you'll need to weld or do away with the pivot on the original differential where it mounts to leaf springs.

John

I don't think you can use the old torque tube leaf springs.
Because the middle leaf spring bolt is offset towards the front for the pivot seat to sit on.
The seat when connected to the axle positions the axle in the center of the spring.
So you should use different leaf springs where the bolt is in the center of the leaf spring.

Also there is no wheel hop with a torque tube.

I've seen people who have welded the pivot on the original springs. If you use the original housing and just swap the pumpkin with a 55-59 gear set.....
Why do I need wheel hop?? John

Alignment Solution for Installing a Late Model Rear End in a 1947-1954 Pick Up CLICK HERE

Why do I need wheel hop?? You don't!!
One very pertinent point I feel that you should mention about closed drive shafts is they are absolutely impervious to rear spring wind up.
Rear spring wind up another name for wheel hop.

I'm using my original housing and springs with a 59 pumpkin. I've had no problems.
I took the swivel stuff off. I wanted to lower my 52panel some so I used lowering blocks. Used perch blocks from a dodge and when I got my pinion angle I welded the perch blocks to housing.

As jorb's link mentions, You can turn the springs around and by doing so will move the center bolt, which is forward, back to center.
However, Since the bottom springs are placed more "toward the front" I only turned the top two around so the strength of the springs would still be toward the front and prevent wheel hop.
Not sure everyone will understand that but if you look at a set real close you'll see what I'm talking about.

Running a small block Chevy with a 700R4 and have not had any trouble what so ever.