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| | | Forums66 Topics128,083 Posts1,055,967 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 | Sorry to have to ask this, but I've never done this before and don't want to screw something up. I'm getting ready to remove my gas tank (38 half ton). Is it simply as easy as loosening the straps and disconnecting the fuel line and wire to the sending unit?
The tank is under the seat, and the back end of the tank tucks under the seat support. Not sure if the seat support needs to come out or not (looks like it might be welded in, so I doubt it needs to come out).
Also, I believe the bolts for the strap are under the cab at the rear of the tank. I started to soak the nuts and bolts there with PB Blaster before loosening them.
Thanks for any info. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | I don't have a '38, but most early Chevy fuel tanks are removed as you suspect by unbolting the straps. I'll state the obvious: Empty vented fuel tank. No heat on the bolts.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 237 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 237 | i can help. what i did was this. i removed the connection that goes out, the filler, this helps so it doenst get stuck, then i took off the line that goes to fuel pump, then i moved the two straps forward BUT be careful the tank might drop if its full, so i lower the tank, then jack up the truck and remove tank. i hope this helps
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,705 back yard wrench turner | | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,705 | Sorry to have to ask this, but I've never done this before and don't want to screw something up. I'm getting ready to remove my gas tank (38 half ton). Is it simply as easy as loosening the straps and disconnecting the fuel line and wire to the sending unit?
The tank is under the seat, and the back end of the tank tucks under the seat support. Not sure if the seat support needs to come out or not (looks like it might be welded in, so I doubt it needs to come out).
Also, I believe the bolts for the strap are under the cab at the rear of the tank. I started to soak the nuts and bolts there with PB Blaster before loosening them.
Thanks for any info. Yes you have the correct procedure. Just remember to remove the filler tube also. oldmemories this tank is under the seat! Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm TruckStovebolt Gallery Forums1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 | Thanks for the advice. I hope to get to this over the weekend. I took the sending unit out and I have a half a tank of fuel to drain out. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 | I got the tank out today. Not too much of a job fortunately. Broke a bolt on one of the straps, but just a minor inconvenience.
After I got the tank out and emptied the residual gas, there was a lot of rust particles. It's probably best if I get a new tank, but I haven't found any for a 38 half ton. Any suggestions?
Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Radiator shops will clean them out and recoat the inside. I paid 250.00. On mine they cut the bottom out in three places sand blasted the inside rewelded the tank and coated it. It has been great since that was done. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | My radiator shop wouldn't do mine so I cleaned it good and used the POR15 sealing kit on my 37. Its been 15 years and its held up good. I think the kits are about $75 if you go that route. It took me and a nephew one afternoon to do it. Came out looking slick. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I used Red-Kote four years ago. Read about it. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 103 | Well, I used the POR-15 tank cleaning kit today. I rinsed the tank out well first and tried to flush as much of the loose stuff out as possible. I then set up a sling to hang the tank from. This allowed me to move and flip the tank to try to get all internal surfaces with the cleaner, prep, and sealer. I used a lot of hot water to rinse, then dried it thoroughly with a hair drier. A little time consuming, but the areas that I could see with a flashlight got really clean looking, and seemed to be well coated with the sealer. Takes 4 days for the sealer to cure, and hopefully my new pads, straps, etc., will be in soon. Anxious to get it back on the road! | | |
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