The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Door Handle Ferrule Tool

So, is the $35 Door Handle Ferrule Tool really necessary for the installation of 1929-1946 Chevrolet ferrules? Seems like a tool I will never use again. Any alternatives?

No. You can cut the ferrule and fold it back by hand. When I went to put mine in the tool it did not fit for the 46. All it does is cut a 1/8 or so strip that folds back and holds it in.

I bought the tool years ago when they were about 16 bucks. I had tried to cut mine like Gwwirth suggest but I never got it tight
enough to keep it from rubbing/twisting the paint off behind the bezel. I tried and I tried to cut/fold/smash it but nothing doing...at least not to satisfy me.
I bought the tool and could never get it tight either. To me the tool is worthless unless someone can "show me something" about using it. I currently have it on loan. I'll see how Harold does with it.

....on the advice of Joe I did use an "O" ring on the bezel before putting it through the door, and an "O" ring on the bezel once I got it slide through the hole. It helped to make it tighter on my 37 and at least saves the paint but it just don't get the blue ribbon.

Originally, my bezel was not cut, or out of shape, in any fashion. It "appeared" to have had a big taped drift/punch pushed through the opening and spread it into a sort of funnel shape looking from inside the door...and man, it was tight.

I'd still like to put another set of news one in but not unless I can get them TIGHT.

Alvin,
I know it has been a while but the cab & doors are in the final stages of prep. Maybe another month and I'll be able to see what the tool can do.
Will let you know.
Harold

Is this the tool you used Alvin?
https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/6852/Chevrolet_Tool_Installs_Door_Handle_Ferrules.html

Dennis

Harold it is all on you to be able to teach us how to install those ferruls...no pressure. I look forward to hearing of your experience.

Dennis,
Alvins installation tool is the same setup but since his is older it has a plastic handle.
Here is the same tool at a better price.

Tool

Harold

An alternative I'd like to try but haven't had the opportunity to is to take a bolt with the same thread as a wheel stud. Stick it through the ferrule from the panel side. Screw a lug nut onto the bolt with the taper of the nut toward the ferrule. Screw the nut onto the bolt, using the taper of the nut to "set" the ferrule similar to setting a rivet. The tool you mention is pretty mickey mouse and does a half-assed job of setting the ferrule. I used that tool on my '38 with so-so results. I've read that you can improve the result a tad by putting a wide "O" ring over the inside of the ferrule before using the tool. If you use the bolt/lug nut method I'd appreciate a report on how well it works.

It's all on you Harold! I have some time so I will try the alternatives. Keep me posted. I'm sure I can find another place to spend the $32 on my 42 instead of buying the one-time use tool. THX ALL!

DennisM, yes, its the same tool. In fact, I bought the tool many years ago from JCarter but the one he now list "looks" like the end is sort of different but could be the picture??

I think I paid about 16 bucks back years ago and decided it wasn't worth the postage to return for the 10 refund back then.

I tried and I tried but was never satisfied with it. And as I mentioned earlier, and Tiny suggested also, is to put a rubber "O" ring on it. I used TWO on mine. One outside and one inside. Joe, "6cylindersovertexas" is the guy who recommended that to me years ago.

Harold, if you have an old bezel you should practice on it. I tried running the adjusting nut in or out and never found a happy spot which worked good.

TINY, I understand perfectly well what your suggesting. That would indeed make it look just like the original ones I took out, and the parts truck I had was a one owner. I'm sure it was original. I figured the factory must have had some type of air, or hydraulic tool to install them. Wish I had a picture of the original but I lost a big roll of film and never found it.

Harold, take your time. I sure don't need it and I still have it listed on my door list of "parts loaned" LOL

I used a derivative of Tiny's method on one ferrule, but used an assemblage of washers a bolt and nut. The key item to keep in mind is to use a bolt that is the exact diameter of the ID of the ferrule or the ferrule walls will collapse and bind on the door handle. I screwed up a new $10 ferrule in this "product development" stage. I think cutting ever so slight shallow incisions every 60 degrees or so on the inside portion of the ferrule also helps to get the correct compression started.

It seemed more art than science to the process.

Do you guys know if there is a how-to video available that shows how to do this?