Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 23 | Hi all,
A few weeks ago I started having intermittent starter problems. The truck would start fine 9 times, then not start for a day, then turn over fine the next day. I'd turn the ignition and not even get a click. I had my battery checked and it read 15.5 volts. The battery was OK, but I was told my voltage regulator was bad, and that I needed a new starter. I put in a new voltage regulator and the truck started great, repeatedly, for a week. I figured I didn't need the starter, so I returned it. An hour later, same problem. Yeah, pretty funny, I know. Do you think it's the starter? The battery tests good now with the new regulator. Any tips are appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | olchevynut,
WOW...15.5 volts. That's pretty high! With the charging system going full bore, most electrical guru's say that 14.8 is absolute max.
If you have a solenoid starter, next time the starter does its thing, hook a voltage tester to the 'S' terminal and see if the solenoid is seeing voltage when the key is turned to START. I think one of two things are happening. The key switch might be old and funky and isn't switching power to the solenoid when turned to START, or the solenoid itself is marginal and isn't pulling in when the key tells it to.
Chevrolet's are famous for this problem. Some folks carry a sawed off broom handle with them and when the solenoid refuses to pull in, they pop the hood and tap the solenoid as their buddy turns the key on.
When the solenoid slams closed, it closes a large copper contact and signals the starter to turn. If it doesn't close, the starter won't spin. The telltale 'clicking solenoid' is another audible clue. You might have someone verify the actual output of your charging system again....when you get into the 15 volt range, your battery is going to boil and its life will be shortened.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | olchevynut,
I looked at some of your previous posts. It looks like your '65 could have a automatic transmission. This would mean it has a neutral starter safety switch that could prevent the starter from engaging if it weren't working or adjusted properly. Just a thought!
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Those starters are easy to work on yourself. If you take it apart & clean it up, put new brushes in if needed, it will usually fix it. You can take the back off the selinoid & clean up the contacts. If the post inside is gooved you can loosen it up & turn it around using the good side. Make shure you get the nut that holds the S term in tight so it makes good contact inside. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 23 | Thanks guys,
Gonna take it out today and look. I'm somewhat mechanically challenged so we'll see. Atomarc, you're right. It is an automatic. It's got a 350 with a 350th. The guy at Standard Battery was pretty surprised with the high reading too so he took off the surface charge and checked the battery again. I figured if he told me the battery was still good and wasn't trying to sell me a new one, he was probably being straight with me. A mechanic buddy I know did the solenoid tap too, and it worked so that's probably the route to go. Thanks again guys. | | |
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