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#100357 04/18/2007 9:13 PM
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Long story, Last fall somthing shorted out and the wires from the alt. to the ammeter and from the ammeter to a relay then to the battery got hot. I replaced them but prior to the replacement my dash lights stopped working, the gas gauge jumps past full with a loud click. the radio doesn't work. All these things happined about the same time, other lights work and truck starts ok. On checking the fuses it appears that only 1 circut is hot, the juice just never seems to get there from the ign. switch, which is new. HELP

#100358 04/19/2007 12:01 AM
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wish I could help Zimmer, looks like you have a electrical problem for sure...............I just noticed on a post that west-auzzie..... is a automotive electrican.......maybe he can help

just curious, is this the same truck you were going to give me a deal on.. grin wink


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A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."
I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.

#100359 04/19/2007 12:20 AM
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If this is your 62 pick up,I would pull the dash cluster out and check for a melted harness.It will be easy to trace with an Ohm meter (Battery Disconnected First !!!)to locate the short.The fuel gauge goes past full with an open circuit and to empty when the sender lead is grounded provided there is power to the other side of the gauge.


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#100360 04/19/2007 4:58 AM
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Sorry guys been putn in time on the down time bench and re-chargn my batteries,best i can tell just now is that gtow69 is on the money,further to that could you also mark the wires on the ammeter and remove them then check that you have a circuit through it and not to ground (body of the truck).One issue i have all ways had with ammeters is that although they give a better indication of current flow they are generaly un protected (fused) and once upgraded from a generator (approx 20-30 amps output) to an alternator (any where from 35-140 amps output)the potential for the insulators on the bolt posts at the rear of the ammeter to fail thereby allowing it to short out on the body of the meter are very real,this is only a problem due to the fact most automotive ammeters are only good for approx 60 amps,so if you have to jumpstart your truck due to a flat battery, once the alternator commences charging it will have a big output(nearly max output) until the regulator tappers it off if the said insulator's hold up all is good if not,well you don't want to know if not,i wish i could just drop in and do the repair's for you any chance i get to spend "quality time" with a truck is o.k. with me.good luck and don't hesitate to get in touch just bear in mind im half a world away and i work shifts so some times you get lucky other times you don't. just on the jumpstart thing it is o.k. to jumpstart but it is a good idea to leave both trucks linked for a few minutes to allow the regulator to tapper off.Hope this helps.


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The 4 stroke cycle(suck,squeeze,bang,blow)
#100361 04/19/2007 5:06 AM
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If you could find away to send a wiring diagram to me i would love to help, i don't like these issues beating me.the problem i have is i have seen very few of these trucks and can only work with what i gather off comments on the forum.good luck once again mate


Where there is a will, there is a relative!


The 4 stroke cycle(suck,squeeze,bang,blow)
#100362 04/19/2007 1:22 PM
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thanks Aussie and Gtow, I had a melted harness but replaced the two wires as stated originally.
The battery doesn't run down and most gauges work. It just seems like I lost juice to the fuse box.

#100363 04/19/2007 2:12 PM
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forgot to add, windshield wipers, cigar lighter, hearter blower, not working either

#100364 04/19/2007 2:22 PM
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gazim west here mate,what truck are we looking at here ?


Where there is a will, there is a relative!


The 4 stroke cycle(suck,squeeze,bang,blow)
#100365 04/19/2007 4:30 PM
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62 chev with quite a few modifications, probably find pics in the gallery.
under gary Zimmerman's 62

#100366 04/19/2007 5:05 PM
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want photos of Zim's truck

click here

and HERE


Redryder pix
My Hotrod
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."
I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.

#100367 04/19/2007 7:41 PM
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Thanks Fred, covered for me again.

#100368 04/20/2007 3:40 AM
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Mate we need to get that painted pony back out on the black top,i am looking for a diagram but as yet have not found one ,don't lose faith in me yet.


Where there is a will, there is a relative!


The 4 stroke cycle(suck,squeeze,bang,blow)
#100369 04/20/2007 1:50 PM
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LOL at the painted pony. I have a diagram for the older trucks but havent figured out yet if if covers mine. Kinda doubt it. Thanks

#100370 04/20/2007 5:35 PM
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are you sure you only damaged two wires?


"It ain't a truck if you can't hose out the cab."
#100371 04/20/2007 7:38 PM
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hey Zim, I have been looking for some on-line diagrams for your 62 but no luck... just a tip, you might pm these last two guys from a previous post that have a 62 and see if they have anything to offer..

here is the post


Redryder pix
My Hotrod
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."
I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.

#100372 04/21/2007 1:44 PM
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Chester, I have only found the two so far.
Stupid question, but do I have a voltage regulator on my truck if I am using a altenator?
The schematic I have for the older trucks show one. but I can't find anything like that on mine and I did look well.

#100373 04/21/2007 1:48 PM
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good Idea Fred, will get on that right away.

#100374 04/23/2007 10:34 PM
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Replacing Light switch tomorrow will advise.

#100375 04/23/2007 11:21 PM
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Generators and early alternators used external voltage regulators; more modern alternators have voltage regulators integrated in the alternator.

#100376 04/24/2007 11:09 PM
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Light switch didn't fix anything
Thanks baldy, clears that up at least, I have no voltage reg.

#100377 04/25/2007 1:31 AM
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Gazim,check your fusible links by pulling on them.If they are bad(open circuit)they will stretch like a rubber band and not supply voltage to the one side of the fuses they power up.A sure sign is that you have no power on BOTH sides of some fuses.


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#100378 04/25/2007 2:14 AM
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These(60-66) have no protection before the fusebox, what has likely burnt up is the ammeter shunt wiring, usually(& melting a nearby wire also) near the inst panel. These two black w/white tracer wires run from the horn relay to the inst panel, the other runs from the panel tot he starter relay. Pull your inst panel & check(untape & inspect)the harness behind it. The big pink wire from the ign. switch feeds the fusebox accessory side IIRC. You could also pull the fusebox & see if something is up there.


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1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
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1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
#100379 04/25/2007 2:33 PM
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Will try that this morning(its raining all day)
I replaced the wires from the starter and alt' to the ammeter already, they had fried but not failed.

#100380 04/25/2007 7:03 PM
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Going to pull this thread tomorrow. Got everything fixed except the heater. Taking it out for a trial run this afternoon. I don't really know of any one thing that worked, but all together, its fixed. Thanks guys for all the help

#100381 04/26/2007 2:16 PM
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Well crap, everything worked for a while. now ammeter and turn signals on the fritz

#100382 04/26/2007 2:41 PM
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Keep a fire extinguisher handy! eek

Stuart

#100383 04/26/2007 9:50 PM
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I never intended for this to go on this long but **** happins, fixed the turn signals but the ammmeter refuses to cooperate. it will move if it is tunked with a screwdrivr to get the proper reading. but what u read last will stay there till you hit it again. Need a new one? or did I screw somthing up with my re-wiring?? It worked for about the first 10 min ok.


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