The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors dynamat anyone

Has anyone used dynamat on their rebuilds? If so what did you think of it, is it worth doing and do you do all interior surfaces, doors, cab roof?
Just noticed that it is VERY similar to bituthene, do you think you could substitute with it? I would guess it is much cheaper or do you need the aluminum coating? Dave

I used a product call Frost King insulation from Home Depot. It worked very well and price less than Dynamat.

Id go with the Bituthene. Pretty much the same as Dynamat,,,but youll save yourself a bunch of $$$. I used something similar,,,called "quick roof" a 25 foot roll was less than 10 dollars. Has the foil face and a very sticky backing. Be sure to at least wipe down the area with a damp rag to remove all dust,,dirt,,etc for a good bond.
I did everywhere I could fit my hands into. Youll be surprised at the difference it makes. Don't waste your money on the Dynamat name.
Good Luck,

I used it in my truck and have had huge improvements. I did every inch of the cab I could before I had it reupholstered. Much quieter (50% so) Keeps the cab both warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Doors sound great too. No more "Tin can" feel. Can't vouch for anything else but I know for my truck was money well spent.

i used dynamat in the roof and doors because it was left over from a previous project.. made the same big difference as those above described. i also feel it was well worth doing. However i don't think there is anything magical in the dynamat product itself and would suspect similar materials like ice & water shield would work as well.

I used the stuff from Home Depot, comes in a roll about 3ft wide. I don't remember if it had adhesive on one side or not. I put it on the floor and firewall, also on the roof. Much cooler in the summer and toasty in the winter, also Much quieter when driving.

Dynamat is butyl rubber and holds up to the heat much better than the asphalt based products from home improvement stores. I debated with myself a long time before finding a company that manufactures a dynamat butyl knockoff. Same thickness and material composition at a much cheaper price point. Forget the name, but I think I posted about it before. My truck is still being put together, so no real world comparison and I never drove the truck before restoration or have been in one in the past…so I have no baseline to compare.

Update: The product I used is GTMAT Onyx Butyl. $160/50sf.

Thanks for the help guys

Marty, can you give us a little more info on the "quick roof" that you used. Is that the actual name of it? Where did you get it. I'd like to take a look at it. Thank you for any more info.

Product that I used was called " Peel & Seal " from Lowes.
6"wide aluminum foil faced, self adhesive. Easy to cut & install. No " rubber " smell in cab, even in hot weather. Definitely cuts the resonance down in the cab at a fraction of the cost of dynamat. Likely not as good, but worked for me.

We have some 100+ degree days here in Colorado and the sun can be quite intense. Anyone have any issues on real warm days with the Lowes and HD stuff?

Reason I ask is that this stuff is typically used as weather sealant around window flanges in new construction and I have had to personally wash the stuff off of my brand new vinyl windows with thinner on very hot summer days where it has run down the side of the house. But I would much rather use this if possible.

Thanks for the replies.

I used Peel 'n Seal in my doors, roof, and floor when I built my '56 over 10 years ago and have had the same positive results noted above and we get at least as hot as Colorado here in eastern Nebraska. It's a very good alternative to the expensive stuff. I'd do it again in a flash.

Fellow Coloradan here:

I used Peel n Seal as fender welting on the step side fenders on my '65. I haven't noticed any issues with anything leaching out.

It's really easy to use.. good stuff!

See post 105 here: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=13928&page=7

I used the "bubble-wrap" type water heater insulation. I have a 2'x50' roll in my truck, it's double layered everywhere including the inside of the doors, bottom of the cowl, etc. I applied it with clear silicone, so you need to air it out, but once it's dried you carpet over it and it's nice and quiet and keeps the heat out.

I used a product I found on Amazon called FatMat.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ajporsche/8709458344/in/set-72157632234070092

It's just like Dynamat as far as I know. Pretty easy to cut and install. Not really 're-positionable' so make sure you got it in the right place before you roll it down.

I guess it's not very cheap either:

http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Thick-...391644660&sr=8-2&keywords=fatmat

Good luck!
~Dave

Thanks for the replies. Seems like a good solution.

I also like the bubble wrap idea. I have **** tons of leftover silicone and need a reason to use it....

Scott

Yep, use silicone liberally. I think I used a case (12) of regular sized tubes, maybe more.

I'll be the dumb guy that asks the question....

Does the foil bubble wrap not "pop" underfoot?

Does the foil bubble wrap not "pop" underfoot?

No it doesn't.
I have it doubled on my cab floor and have been working and crawling on it for a year now. Sitting on shop stools, kneeling, what have you it has been quite durable and that's without a carpet or floor mat over it...

Nope, not at all. The way it is sandwiched between layers makes that nearly impossible, I think. It's not quite the same as the bubble wrap you're probably thinking of.

What is the brand name of this product & where is it sold?
Thanks,
Harold

Harold, it's called Reflectix, Home Depot should have it, and other builder supply places - there's a single bubble layer type and a double bubble [ ] one with 3 layers of foil - does work well, but anywhere I use it I use the 3M spray contact cement adhesive to stick it

Bill

Bill,
Thanks for the info. I'm sure other bolters appreciate it also. It is getting more expensive to get the stuff we need to do our restorations.
Harold

Every hardware type store should have a version of this, of different brands.

Harold, Red58 is right on. I used the reflectix on my panel roof. I used the super 3m spray glue. A fellow bolter here, Marty, used and recommended a self stick that I think I'll try next time.

Alvin,
Another forum I read has high regards for Peel & Seal, a self stick product.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&am...id=3527196295&ref=pd_sl_2569b9ivn5_e

This may be what Marty has used.
Harold

I've used peel-n-seal, but the better similar product I prefer is blueskin, should be available at builders supply stores .... used it everywhere inside and under daBus project - make sure you want it where you put it, cuz you won't be getting it off

Bill

Bill, I'm still trying to decide what to use, why do you think blueskin is better? Dave

experience with both in building construction - Blueskin sets the standard now for flexible hole-in-wall flashing, particularly with it's 'self sealing' behavior, screw thru it and no leaks .... not easy to use, but the spray-on "primer" gives some ability to adjust positioning and it's bullet proof - peel n seal is stiffer stuff designed for flat roofing, harder to conform to uneven surfaces

Bill

Just what I needed to hear! I will use blueskin Thank you

I dint see any prices Bill, how does it compare to Dynamat??

DG

I don't recall the price offhand, but most anything would be cheaper than Dynamat at the prices I've seen on the net .... check your local builder suppliers, it's in most around here, although not Home Depot

Bill

Pretty sure you brought this up before Bill, I haven't
seen it in any of the stores around here (western chi
town burbs), as mentioned, Home Depot, not at Menards
and I won't buy from ACE.
It looked kind of special, and when I don't see prices, that's
like an alarm signaling that if they put the price down, it
would discourage you from pursuing it any further.
Dynamat is expensive, but not that much more, and it doesn't
stink like a freshly oiled road, doesn't let loose when it gets
hot, kills sound, insulates and reflects heat. Never ever heard
a bad word about it except for the pricing.
Dynamats insulation properties deals with the heat and
sound conduction and thermal radiation with it's
reflective layer. The asphalt based material with the
aluminum layer act very similar but are made to stay
in place on a relatively flat surface not hanging
from a vertical or overhead surface. Also it does
have that asphalt smell when it gets hot. Your Blue
Skin, although it's rubberized, it's still an asphalt
based material, which has to outgas when it's 100° in
the shade.

DG

properly applied Blueskin will not 'let loose' even if you want it to, I had a piece get rumpled when putting it onto a small panel and ended up having to throw the panel away and start over and it smells a bit when applying, but with a plastic skin it doesn't off-gas later - if the panel it's on gets hot it may soften, haven't had the problem, and I'll be using it on the ceiling of the '57 panel I have in progress with no hesitation

OK, dug into the receipt pile, got it at Home Hardware Building Center [got those down there?] 36" x 75' [225 sq ft] roll was $150 + a spray can of the primer @ $16 [73¢/ft total] in July 2010 .... it's also available in narrower, shorter rolls, as it's most commonly used around window and door openings ..... the 1/8" Dynaliner here is $85 for 12 sq ft or $7/ft, 10 times the price .... Henry is based in Calif with a plant in Indianapolis and half a dozen other US locations, try calling their 800 number and ask what chains carry their products

I won't try to convince anyone to use it, but for my budget, Bluskin and the Reflectix insulation beats Dynamat or anything else hands down, particularly for a vehicle roof where condensation can be a problem, like the panel body

Bill

Well thanks for the leg work Bill, dint mean to push ya, but I
guess I did huh? Yep, that's a bunch cheaper, by a factor of
about ten. I don't remember the price of Dynamat being that
high, guess the price has gone up with the demand. One of the
things I'm not nuts about with the blue skin is the lack of
reflective layer. But like you say, it's meant for sealing out
drafts. I won't be ready for any sound deadener or thermal
insulation for quite some time, but I have been gathering up
sample of different stuff that we've been talking about here
over the past few years. I'll take another look at the blue skin
and add some samples to the pile if I can find it down here. I'm
gonna take some samples and stick them out in the weather this
summer for testing when I get some spare time. Want to check for
adhesion, smell, heat transfer. If it's a good thermal barrier
then it's usually a good sound barrier also.

Denny G

It seems this topic comes up fairly often and I am sure I have commented on this topic in other threads. When it came time for me to install the sound deadening material in my truck, I researched the heck out of all the materials choices from roofing materials to Dynamat. In the end, I settled on GTMAT Onyx. GTMAT is basically a Dynamat knockoff at a lower price point. Same thickness, same butyl rubber material. Test shows the Onyx stays put at a much higher heat than any of the asphalt based roofing materials and just slightly lower temp than Dynamat. But, a very high temp never-the-less. Plus, GTMAT is located in my area.

GTMAT: $150 for 50 sf. I like my choice in the end as I can sleep well at night knowing it will stay put and wont smell in the 105 degree Texas summer heat.

How do you all handle the transmission access panel and the battery access when insulating the floor pan? Just insulate over it and don't sweat it?

I cut an opening in the sound deadening material and use foil tape to seal the edges. I then cut another piece of sound deadening material to fit into the hole, thus plugging the hole, and again use foil tape to seal the edges of the plug. Then when you need access to the access panel you simply pull out the "plug" of deadening material.

Hope that makes sense

Got any links to that test?

Here's one on You Tube from July 2011 that has Peel-N-Seal, Dynamat and Fat Mat (Onyx not included):

I've got 10+ years daily driver only vehicle, I paid $16/roll works great, if you want to spend money on some company's advertising budget they will accept your checks.

I used a 6" horizontal piece the width of my doors and it took out all the 'oil-canning sound', did the entire floor and ceiling, quieter, I know it's warmer in winter.

I can see using the peel and seal variety in the doors and lid to prevent oil-canning. Where I become a gutless turd is sticking the stuff all over the floorboards and behind the gas tank. I think my biggest concern is that the next guy to have to do a repair there (me) will have a hell of a time getting it up. Not yet being in that situation I don't know if it will ever be an issue but that is why I can't yet seem to pull the trigger.

Anybody have to re-visit a place where this was stuck down and if so what were the challenges?