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I am getting ready to purchase a wiring harness for my 1950 1 ton... everything original but am running a 12 volt generator system...just wanted to check and get some feedabck on what everyone else has had good luck with.

I am looking for an original wiring harness with cloth covered wiring and all terminations already completed... basically a "bolt in" wiring harness

There are 2 options I would like if they can be ordered with the new harness

1. directionals
2. twin tail lights

recommendations?

I just went through that decision process myself, for a '48 2 ton.

After checking the usual on line Chevy parts suppliers I had the options of stock reproduction without enough wires, "updated" harnesses with PVC and too many wires, or have a custom harness made.

I went with the custom harness.

The changes to the main harness were a 1 wire alternator so no regulator and since it has a 90A output, Ammeter replaced with a voltmeter. Fog lights, fender mounted directionals, a cold start circuit and a horn relay.

I went to Narragansett Reproductions, a company known for doing high quality harnesses. Original wire styles, factory color codes and connectors.
I even bought a new directional switch from them since they remove the PVC wires and install the proper cloth pigtail.

The main harness was around $580, Chevy of the 40"s lists for $715.

The rear body harness was separate. I sent them a drawing for that and haven't gotten the quote yet. That had a branch for the auto trans backup and starter safety switches, dual tail lights, separate directionals and backup lights, and the gas tank along the frame rail. It is a long wheelbase 12' stake body.

This thread needs some more love and attention. Very relevant topic for first time builders.

Love the idea of original look wires, but also love the idea of whatever is most practical.

Most of the time I cringe when I see the price for a harness. Then I remember what it takes to make one. Then I check to see what my time is worth. Most of the time I am rather cheap...like free to myself. Then I price the stuff...and spend the money. Harness can be made. It won't be cheap, it won't be "correct" and it won't be with out hassles. Only you can decide what you want and need then spend your time and money to get it. Love the look of the cloth covered harness. Hate the cost of them..what are you gonna do? The most important things. Are the ends correct? Are they marked correctly? Does it fit? Reputable suppliers are worth their weight in gold. You are gonna have some fun so enjoy.

For my '48 Loadmaster 1.5ton I went with the "original' cloth style wiring harness w/turn signals from Jim Carter. I knew somethings would probably be different as they don't list a harness for my application. The main differences are; most of the '48 fuses are omitted (no more head light fuses)
The fuel sending unit wire is too short.
No courtesy light wire, or steering column horn wire
Other then that it looks and works great for me.
It is $500 as opposed to $750 & $950 I was quoted from some of the popular "wire harness" vendors here.

I installed a Painless fuse block and made my own harness in mine. I ran everything off one main bundle versus wires in all different directions, and since I intend on hauling stuff I wanted my lighting system to have independent fuses so I don't loose all of my lighting if something goes. Also in the scenario something grounds out, or anything I ran may get screwed up later on, Ill know where to pinpoint the problem. The great thing is their directions are so easy a caveman can do it!

Heres an earlier pic of the bundle, runs out from where most of the electrical accessories are (by the gauges, wipers, etc.) and ends at the alternator

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/...9-49BA-97F2-5C10927E1D1E_zpsw3hg1orb.jpg

I just simply branched everything from the fuse block, labeled my wires of where they needed to go, it was easy

I'm Planning on purchasing a (9+3) harness,from "Rebel Wire". Their ad is in "our" "Links" section.Nice thing,is the fuse block,(My T.F.'55 6500 doesn't have one),has 12 fuses,while the kit offers 14 circuits.10% discount for "Stovebolt" members,as well as 15% for "'Bolt" Supporters!! Price is quite reasonable,as well! ($179.95,with heater wire,B-4 discount)! Rebel states that wires are labeled every 6",and bundled for easy installation."Money back guarantee". Anybody installed one of these??

Could not find a harness to suit my 49. Stock with a generator, 12 volt and turn signals. Next choice? Made my own. If you can trust the crimps you make on the terminals its a piece of cake. I used the schematic from the shop manual and ran one wire at a time. As an example there are only a few wires from the fuse block forward and the longest is less than 4 feet. Under dash is more difficult because of location but it would be that way with an aftermarket harness anyway. I don't care about originality.

I recently did a '52, I do a lot of electrical and it wasn't intended to be 'original'. I used a 6ckt panel under the dash, added a 9 pin - I believe - bulkhead connector at the firewall (avaiable from American AutoWire), restored an old SignalStat turn signal switch for the turnsignal circuit (most aftermarket kits included turn signal ckts as part of the kit, but you'll have to wire around that part if you want an old authentic 'add-on' turn signal switch).
The best improvement was to run heavier gage wire back for turn signals etc and an added backup light. I wrapped the front end harness and ran it as the original and used those terminal strips on the inner fenderwells - you'll need the larger ones because of the turnsignals, the originals used 1 4gang and 1 3gang and the 3gang will come up short. the system was 12v and had an altenator - no amp gage - pertronix ignition, original starter, regular & bullhorn.
I would like to have done it in the orginal woven fabric but there is such a little amount is exposed that it was hard to justify.
I do have that waxed string in 100' spools, black and white, if any of you want to comb & halfhitch it in exposed looms. Shoot me a PM and I'll fix you up. Its' the real stuff, milspec.