I had this problem with a severely rusted and repaired cab. You absolutely need to mount the cab on a strait frame and adjust it as specified by the book. I spread out the opening at least 3/4" without buckling anything. I spread the opening by bolting a big c-clamp to a piece of square tubing in such a way as to use the screw of the clamp to do the spreading. I went from hinge pillar to latch pillar. Even if you do buckle something, I think that would be easier to fix than the heat warping of the door, with all of the welding of the entire length of the door, is likely to cause.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission