Originally posted by atomarc:
red58,
I have written so much stuff I am not sure what you are referring to..I'm lost.
Tiny,
As I look at the wiring diagram, this is how I interpret it. The back of the ammeter (silent P) has four connections. The top two power the meter...they show current flow, charge/discharge. The bottom two are only studs for the fuse block..an attaching point..insulated from the case.
There is a fuse in that circuit. It will show up as a load on the ammeter whenever any device or lamp on the circuit is energized. If that fuse blows, nothing downstream works. You can see that if it is in the wrong circuit and blows, the coil loses power..isn't this what happens?
If the connections for + and - actually go right to the coil of the meter, the face of the gauge might be an "upside down" style. If the fuse block is factory attached, and the depiction in the schematic is accurate, then the fuse block should be on the bottom, not top. Could the gauge be in upside down in an effort to make it's face look more conventional.
This seems like pretty simple wiring...where are all the engineers when you need them?
I'm still trying to figure out why ammeter doesn't have a fricken P in it.
red58,
Have you looked at the wiring diagram? What are your thoughts.
Stuart.
Shoot! That's why I'm here asking for help because I'm NOT good with wiring. In the morning I'm going to go out and pull the fuse & use my test light to see which terminals are "fused" and which aren't. Anyway the diagram you are looking at is essentially the same the the copy of the GM factory diagram YNZ uses (and I sent you). So if everything is hooked up that way, why does the fuse pop? Bad ground drawing too much current????? I'm so confused............<G>
