Hi y'all & thanks for the feedback. I'm trying to keep the old lady as original as I can afford to do so I've made no changes to the stock wiring such as adding relays, sealed beams or upgrading to 12 volt. I have considered upgrading to 8 volts but thats a whole 'nother thread. The car has one main fuse which resides on the back of the ammeter. The passenger (feed) side of the ammeter is connected directly to the battery via the starter switch on top of the starter. Another terminal that also appears to be on the feed side of the ammeter feeds the light switch which then feeds the tail/instrument panel lights on one circuit, the headlights via the dimmer switch on another circuit, the stop lights/domelight on another circuit and the parklights on another circuit. All of those appear to be unfused as they appear to feed from the battery side of the ammeter. After crossing the fuse the ammeter has a terminal feeding the battery terminal on the voltage regulator (with a jumper going to the "town" horn) and the "hot" side of the ignition switch which then (when switched on) feeds the gas guage, the ignition terminal on the voltage regulator and ,via an armored cable, the coil. The car does have three other fuses which are not shown on the factory wiring diagram. One each on the heater and defroster switches and one on the T&C horn circuit. The horns feed directly off of the battery/starter switch. The heater/defroster switches now feed from the downstream side of the ignition switch. The car came from the factory without a heater so I have no idea where the switches originally would feed from. I didn't want them hot all the time so I put them on the switched side of the ignition switch. Now, unless you are all really sharp with antique auto circuitry you are probably shaking your heads at what I just wrote so post your e-mail addys & I'll scan & send the diagram to those who are interested.
