On the two trucks I have done the 'okie' repair on , the front bush HAD to be removed first , the okie was too long to allow for all the original and repair parts to fit together.
On the '37 even with the original front bush removed and the okie bottomed out on the original seal , there was still 1/8" of new bush protruding from the torque tube (possibly a machining error) but it was ok like that.
You cannot drive the bushings right down the shaft , there is a lip that they bottom onto.
did you find the dowel pin that locks the front outer bushing in place?
I removed that and drove a pin punch in , at an angle to get the removal of the bushing started , then grabbed the protruding bush with the vice grips to get it out.
You need to stone the sharp edges off the splines to prevent cuts to the new seal lip before getting a tool or block of hardwood and driving in the new okie.
I put a little loktite 620 around the outer dia of the okie to seal it and retain it , I wasn't sure at that stage how successful my reinstallation of the locking dowel would be , as it turned out, I made a new dowel and peened it in, so it was fine.
