Before you start swapping cams, at least find the opening and closing point of both valves. Don't forget to account for the clearance ramps when figuring the duration. There will be a noticeable change in the rate of lift once the clearance is taken up. There will be a corresponding slowdown of valve speed just before it touches the seat to prevent battering the valve and the seat. If the intake is closing a long way up the compression stroke, you've found your loss of compression pressure, because pressure isn't going to begin building in the cylinder until the intake gets fully closed. By advancing the cam a few degrees in relation to the crankshaft with an offset Woodruff key on the crankshaft gear, you'll help the compression, and also boost low-end torque. There will be a slight drop in top-end horsepower, but there's no free lunch. Combined with the angle-mill on the head, you might get enough of a compression boost to make the engine come alive without a cam swap.
If I still lived in Merced I'd be glad to help you do that cam-degreeing job. Good grief! Did I just think about going back to Commiefornia? I must be losing my mind!
Jerry
