Originally Posted by yar
MacX says "...to not worry about when the bubbles stop". Wow, that is scary. I hope you never have to stop quickly to avoid running into me!


I said dont worry about stopping ~right~ after the bubbles stop in order to conserve brake fluid... Like Alvin said, the implication is that you push a liberal and excess volume of fluid through, so that you ~have~ to be well past all the bubbles, unless something else is wrong. And, in the case that something else ~is~ wrong, you do completely test the brakes in many stages after bleeding them... You dont make your first try of the pedal at 50 MPH and hope it holds....

Alvin, I empathize with you... I had Mac start the brake job by pulling off the MC last December. By the time he was putting it back in for the 7th time and bleeding the system for the 20th time, in late May, he was starting to get a little impatient and bored with the "progress" we were making... When the pedal finally stood firm, and stayed there day after day and then week after week, we both felt very good. He's got all his excitement and enthusiasm back now, though, since it only took 2 sessions to get the engine to come back to life...

I dont have the speed bleeder screws, though. I use something similar to what Tim referred to. Before the 1-man check-valve gadgets were on the shelf, though, the same thing could be accomplished by priming the drain hose so it was full before attaching it to the bleeder screw, and having the output end of the drain hose in a large bottle that already had fluid in it, where the hose was held down below the level of the fluid... essentiall using the syphon effect of a submerged hose to be a check-valve...

Keith



Last edited by MacX; 07/29/2010 11:30 PM. Reason: Actually, I think the 1 man bleeder Tim linked to uses the syphon effect as the valve... I have seen ones with an inline diaphragm valve that goes close to the bleeder screw...

1953 Chevy 3100
Father and Son project
In the Stovebolt Gallery
46 GMC 303 1.5T