The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Bottom end knock - rod bearings - removed 1 & 6.

Ouch! That second pic looks pretty nasty! What does the surface of the crankshaft look like? If there are score marks deep enough to catch with a fingernail, putting new bearings in will be a very temporary fix at best. I have had some success with polishing crankshaft journals with a long piece of fine-grit emery cloth, using a "shoeshine" motion, but be aware you're also going to be removing a small layer of metal and increasing the oil clearance a bit with the polishing operation. Those part numbers look like original-equipment bearing nunbers, which would suggest you're dealing with a standard-diameter crankshaft, but the only way to know for sure is to measure the crankshaft with a micrometer. Measure the diameter in several places, looking for out-of-round conditions, or taper from side to side. Out of round or taper should be less than one thousandth of an inch (.04 MM). Plastigauge is great for cheching oil clearance on a smooth crankshaft with good bearings, but it's not a substitute for accurate measurements. The area most likely to experience wear on the crankshaft rod journal is the upper side of the journal, facing the top of the block with the crank turned to the lowest point of piston travel.

Connecting rod torque specifications are 35-45 ft/lb, and main bearing torque is 100-110 ft/lb. I would reccomend checking all the bearings for clearance and bearing condition, rods and mains, as long as you've got the oil pan removed. Unless I'm badly mistaken, you're probably going to need to remove the crankshaft and get it reground undersize to restore the proper surface finish and oil clearance.
Jerry