For the potential sludge matter, I agree with Hotrod Lincoln; try a commercial engine flush product, used as directed. If you want to remove the oil pan, that is not a major job; you do have to remove the clutch covers, as mentioned by Mikestem. Cleaning the gasket surfaces may be more trouble than removing the pan itself. Reasons for oil pans leaking are usually incomplete cleaning of the gasket surfaces, and deformation of the pan gasket surface caused by over-tightening the pan bolts (the stove bolts). If the pan gasket surface is not deformed around the bolt holes, you shouldn't have any trouble sealing the pan. The gasket package includes two end seals that fit the main bearing caps and seal the ends of the pan. There is no need to glue any of those gaskets in place, although that was fairly common in the past. If the pan is not visibly damaged, there should be no need to use the target gauge for checking the oil pipes and rod dippers. The open side of the dippers face the cam shaft, or the open ends of the oil pipes. Also, you shouldn't mess with the connecting rods, except to see if the dippers are all in place and the rods all are the same color- brownish and oily. If you see a dark blue/black rod cap, there is a bearing failure there, but you probably would already hear it knocking. You can push fore and aft on each rod cap, on the bolts, or at the bottom center of the cap, and it probably will move slightly, which is all right, but don't push on the dippers. The cap/rod should not move at all if you push sideways, across the journal. If a rod moves in that direction, the bearing is loose- and you need further instructions.
If you see that the gasket surface around the bolt holes on the pan is raised above the surface between the holes, support the pan under the holes and tap the top surface flush. That usually will prevent leakage; then when you tighten the bolts, don't tighten them until the gasket squishes out- that's too tight.
Harvester
