Yepper, I don't envy either one of you old dudes, but on the other hand I do envy both of ya! I think we all started on these projects about the same time. I don't have anywhere near the work ahead of me that you guys have but it looks like your gonna have all the face lifting and cosmetics finished long before me.
She will be nice Woody when ya got her all finished up. And Alvin, I gotta agree with the Wood's man, thar sure is a bunch of sheet metal to deal with on one of them thar enclosed trucks. I have a buddy that is doing a '48 Willis with Ford ranger running gear and I thought he had a lot of body to work with but it dunt compare to an early Burb.
I was taking a look through your album Alvin, I was focused in on your out door sandblasting work. Man you must be a glutton for punishment! I got about the same setup you do, maybe a little smaller air supply but bout the same pressure pot and all. I just did a rear fender, inside only, about 2-3 hours. And the under bed spare carrier, bout 2-3 hours. And a couple of wheels, bout 2-3 hours. And I went through three guns and am having to rebuild the last one after it’s 2-3 hour session. None of my guns hold up more than a few hours before the trigger or stop setup is eaten through. Eats through the rubber end stoppers on the one, and the rubber hose inside the other type and it eat right through the 3/4” ball valve that I tried after about an hour.
I don’t know how you could get a whole frame done with one of these, that had to take you weeks.
By the way, in your album, who’s Luther??
Woody, you gonna have to do anything around the window openings? How does that Propane work for the lead, or is that Mapp gas? I was using my Victor Oxy/Cetylene with a no.1 tip and a nice soft flame for a little leading I had to do on a stressed area that needed to be welded up on the toe of the rear fender. You know, where the running boards bolt up, they always get torn up around there. I just picked up some 30/70 “body solder” from Eastwood on the last order to “lead” the areas that might see some stress or flexing. That works real nice, using tallow. I have a bottle of liquid acid I used for etching gutter joints for soldering that I used when I was a tin knocker, I use that before I tin and that really gives me a great bond, not saying that the lead is penetrating the steel but if you ever had to weld it you would actually have to grind into the metal surface a few mills to get the lead completely cleared off. I don’t care what the body men of to day say, Bondo/Rage sticks great also but there is no way that it bonds to the surface on the molecular level like a well done lead filler. I could back bend this surface and the lead won’t separate from the surface, try that with plastic filler.
Well, good luck, I wish I had the acres between the next door and me like you guys have. Both sides of me are the type that sue every and anybody at the drop of a hat. It’s even hard to spray with a rattle can, I have to make sure the wind isn’t blowing in either direction or they would accuse me of over spraying their grass. That’s my biggest challenge right now.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
