There is nothing wrong with re-using babbited connecting rods if the babbit is in good shape- no flaking, chipping, pitting or cracking. There may be shims between the cap and rod end, so watch for those when you remove the cap. Watch where shims are located, because there may be different thicknesses of shims on each side, or no shims on one side, or no shims at all. The shim stack may also be different on each rod. They are used to adjust the bearing clearance during assembly. If you disassemble this engine:
1. Note the location of rod shims, and keep the shims with the original location on the rod. If you don't do that, you will have to readjust each rod individually- not a major undertaking, but time consuming, even when you know how to do it.
2. Main bearings may also have shims on the caps. Pay attention to those, also.
3. For re-assembly-- the numbers on the connecting rods go toward the cam shaft.
4. The open part of the oil dipper goes toward the camshaft- and toward the pipe in the oil pan. In the past, the dippers were often put on backwards, which resulted in considerably shortened connecting rod life.
It comes to mind that there was a common practice for rod shims if only one side was shimmed, or if there was a thicker stack on one side. I don't remember with any certainty, but I think the shims, or the thicker stack, went on the numbered side of the rod in that situation.
These points assume you will not be replacing any bearings, but re-assembling the engine as it was- maybe with new rings. Adjustments are in order if you replace any bearings.
Harvester
