UPDATE:
I picked up points, condenser, and a carb kit at the FLAPS. I also picked up a little
spark ignition checker from Harbor Freight. This is a doo-hickey that looks like a plastic spark plug with a little light in it, and then has a boot on the other end. The idea is to mount this in series with a spark plug. When you are getting fire, the little bulb should light. It was only a few bucks; I thought it might show something.
I had time in the day to install the new condenser and points. I didn't see anything wrong with the old ones, just thought it would be a good idea to replace. After replacing, still no change to my problem: the truck cranks, but doesn't start. I didn't try the starter fluid because I wanted to keep the engine bay cool.
I put on the ignition checker on the #1 plug- I saw a dim orange flash. I assume this means I have spark. This was when I was cranking the engine.
I pulled off the carb and did a rebuild. I found that the float wasn't set right when I pulled it apart. Otherwise, everything looked good by my eyes.
I read a thread about carb spacer gaskets while getting back to THIS thread to post this update. I put on the gasket between the carb and the insulator spacer. Based on the thread I read, I'll pull it off tomorrow. (For the record, the old one had a gasket on it too, and it ran fine. Granted, was hard to start, but once running, ran great.)
Here's the rub- no matter what I do, including having starter fluid, I can't get the truck to start. This is different than before. After I tried to start it with the rebuilt carb, it would just crank and crank, but no start. I put on the little ignition checker, and now I can't see any pulsing light at all. Either that thing died after one use (possible- it is Harbor Freight!) or I don't have the slightest spark. This would certainly explain why I now can't start it, even with starter fluid.
I pulled the distributor cap and see that all 6 of the contact points look nice and clean. However, the button in the center is black and rough. I got some 220 sand paper and tried to clean it off a little, but it didn't change the starting problem. (Tomorrow's new cap will eliminate this possible source of the trouble.) The rotor looks great.
I look at my engine, I can think of only two things that could be the problem: the coil or the key switch. I have no idea what to do about the coil. Can I take it to the FLAPS for testing? Is it possible the key switch could be the problem? When I move the key to the ON position, the gas gauge moves. When I stomp on the starter, the amp gage moves. Is it possible that it can energize the meters, but not allow juice to get to the plugs?
Is there a relay in the circuit that could be messed up? I see a litle device on the firewall that could be such a thing.
What the flippin-flip else could it be???
One more thing: after I reinstalled the carb, I failed to crank down on the fuel filter bowl enough to get a good seal. When I was cranking, I was spilling gasoline all around the fuel inlet to the carb. This tells me that the pump is working fine. Also, before completing assembly, I poured some gas in the chamber where the float rests so that it wasn't starting dry. When I disassembled the carb, I verified that the float has no leaks.
I don't have a helper who can help with watching spark jump from the spark plug wire terminal to the block. This is another reason I got the ignition checker.
Does anyone have any idea why it seems I have no spark?
Help! and Thanks!
Bill
