Bill: Thanks for clearing up the remote starter question. I last used it back in the 80s on another car, and couldn't for the life of me remember how it was hooked up. There is only about 8" of separation between the clamps, and I couldn't find anything that look like the "right" place! When I was under the hood attempting to engage the stomp linkage to energize the starter, I must have checked for neutral and e-brake 10 times! I kept imagining myself getting launched under the wheels once I bumped the starter!
Jon: I've been going with super in my bolt thinking that its octane level is probably closer to '58 gasoline than today's blends. I figured if I'm using factory-specs for plug, gap, etc., I might as well be using fuel that the factory figured I'd be using. I know better than to use super for "power" or "mileage." I never had knocking problems regardless of fuel type. I'll go back to regular (87 octane, ~5% ethanol) next tank, per your suggestion and Bill's.
Last night, when I checked gap, it was after two unsuccessful starting attempts. Both plugs appeared dry.
I don't know how old the plugs, condensor, and points are. I verified plug and point gap last spring, and also hooked that little analyzer up and found the dwell to be good. I can't remember each analyzer test I performed, but I remember doing all available and that only idle needed to be adjusted. (Lowered it from 600 rps to 450 rpms.)
At the start of this topic, I was set to a carb rebuild. Now I'm thinking maybe I should replace points, plugs, and the condensor, tackling the issue from the spark standpoint rather than the fuel/accelerator pump side of the equation.
One more question: if I opened the choke and put a puff of starting fluid down the carb and then tried my first start, would that prove anything? I don't think it eliminates anything electrically, but what about carb-wise?
Bill
