Jim,
I think I gave bum info in my previous post. The common buss isn't at the horn relay. My diagrams show the horn relay connecting to the BATT terminal of the regulator, which would be the most direct route for a full power connection to the horn via the relay. This point isn't really important.
I can see Tiny's point on bypassing the ammeter with his new alternator, but I don't know if I agree totally.
Although a modern alternator has the capacity to supply more current than a old style generator, it's the demand on the system that will regulate this.
If the battery were run down, as in Tiny's case, the charging system would spike when the truck started and alternator began to charge. This wouldn't happen for very long, and as the ammeter isn't a mechanical gauge, I don't think it would be affected.
The typical generator could supply upwards of 30 amps. The alternator that is often used with a 6/12 swap is usually in the 50 amp range. Unless some fancy wiring is done, and regardless of which side of the ammeter the charging system output is attached, there is going to be some wire under the dash that has the potential to see the total output of the charging system.
Although I don't know this for sure, I would speculate that the ammeter is constructed internally to handle output of a modern alternator. I don't know if pegging the gauge would ruin it, but I would doubt it...it's not a solid mechanical hookup.
The only scenario I can see where the ammeter would see a huge current rush would be if the battery were run down during a hard start, and then this would only be for several seconds before it tapered off.
The whole idea with this topic is whether or not it is safe to have large current carrying conductors inside the cab. I think if done properly it's fine, but I suppose it's really a matter of personal preference.
Stuart
Last edited by atomarc; 12/06/2007 6:04 PM.
